Philly D wrote:It is for your pcv system.
Whats your plans for your pcv system?
Well.... I have plans for it now. I don't know if Roofy was kidding or not when he said block it off, but I did. lol
And as result.... I believe I have a blown rear main seal. Which explains the high oil pressure to the turbo. I'm leaking a lot of oil. Going to do what Vince did. Run a catch can between the PCV port on the head and the intake before the turbo.
Did you say my car looks slow??
Thats what should be done.
Only thing that can be blocked off is the port between 2 and 3 runners if you want.
Get a nice baffled can with no vent. From my reading this is a very good can especially for the money. I have one but havent installed it yet.
http://www.saikoumichi.com/
Yupp... well I have an oil leak somewhere, and I am not talking about the one I already know is coming from my rear main seal........... I was driving to work and smoke just started billowing out from under my car and if I could fly my car, it'd be like one of them planes that "smoke write". I pulled off and it is coming from my exhaust. I think it's my turbo cuz I was unable to get above -2 psi on my boost gauge right before the smoke started to come out.
Philly D wrote:Only thing that can be blocked off is the port between 2 and 3 runners if you want.
http://www.saikoumichi.com/
That's all I have blocked off.. What else is there to block off?
Did you say my car looks slow??
Ok.. Long time no post. I rebuilt the turbo. I have plumbed the turbo into my water lines. I have an oil restrictor now, .065" diameter. Should I get a .040" diameter restrictor?
I took the car out for a drive, and the turbo would not get boost. Just like before. I could not get above -2 psi. I am also burning oil again. So this turbo, unless y'all know something I don't, is going to recycling.
I am looking for another turbo. Same size, slightly larger.. let me know. Thanks guys.
Did you say my car looks slow??
How's the shaft play in the turbo?
Did you check all your charge pipes? I had a cracked elbow on mine and it was almost impossible to see it caused the boost to bleed from 12 down to like 4.
However going bigger needs no "real" excuse lol
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
What did you end up doing with the rust repair on the lower 1/4's?
Matt Linke wrote:How's the shaft play in the turbo?
Did you check all your charge pipes? I had a cracked elbow on mine and it was almost impossible to see it caused the boost to bleed from 12 down to like 4.
However going bigger needs no "real" excuse lol
I have not. I was really bummed out and didn't check anything cuz it was a hot motor. (not including charge pipes, I know...)
I just don't understand it! I wish there was still some ice out here to where I could start the car, put the front tires on the ice, have it strapped off to a tree, put someone in the drivers seat, rev the engine, while I check for leaks.... but it all melted last week. Good plan right?
sscavalier wrote:What did you end up doing with the rust repair on the lower 1/4's?
I haven't touched the quarter panels yet. The drivers side is rust free. But I bought a lower quarter panel piece off of eBay for $45 (since this is a common area for rust on the car, they make special sheet metal pieces). I will be taking it to the community college where I used to go, and let them fix it up. All I have to do is pay for the materials and there is no labor costs!
My boost is set at 10 psi. I think I need a new turbine and shaft assembly not a new bigger turbo. When I rebuilt my turbo, not all of the turbine piston ring came out (heat welded itself onto the shaft), so I thought I could just fit a partial new ring in there... I think this is the problem, but........... I have a lot of positive crankcase pressure, cuz there is oil on my windshield from the breather on my valve cover, and my breather is soaked in oil!
Now I fully understand the respect that people get when they have custom setups! It takes a whole lot of patience and motivation and finesse to get a car running great!!!!
So to finish this post. My "To-Do" list:
Check cylinder compression
Check shaft play
Check for cracks, or loose silicone connections
Hook up my catch can (PCV setup)
Check WG to make sure it is closing
..... Anything else I should do?
Did you say my car looks slow??
IMO, if your turbo saw that much heat that it welded parts of its internals together you *might* wanna get a new one lol.
On the flip side of that, Positive crankcase pressure would both be cause for blowing oil past the turbo and the turbo being upset itself. If there is enough pressure in the crankcase, it could be pushing upwards on the drain from the turbo causing drain issues and excess pressure in the turbo. I had that problem on my LN2 for a few months before i drilled a few holes in the valve cover and added a catch can. I know the L61 has more baffling in the valve cover, but it still may need help in that area.
I hear you on custom setup issues. lol. Im going through similar right now. Motivation has been harder to come by lately.
Get it running properly!
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
Ok..
Cylinder Compression test (I did it cold cuz I didn't have enough time to warm it up before I had to leave the house last night. But I'll check it tonight warm, even if I do start burning oil.)
Cylinder #1: 170
Cylinder #2: 175
Cylinder #3: 170
Cylinder #4: 180
Very consistent which is good.
Shaft Play
Yes... too much
I could wiggle it and it wouldn't spin freely.. I need to find a new turbine shaft or a new t3 turbo
I will do more tonight.
Did you say my car looks slow??
Just get a decent EBay T3/T4. Make sure all the bolts are tight with loctite and with the restrictor you should be fine. And I wasn't kidding with the PCV block off. You definitely don't wanna boost the inside of your crank case.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Question #1: Should I remove the baffles in my valve cover?
Question #2: Should I add 1 more port to the baffled, or unbaffled valve cover for my catch can setup?
Did you say my car looks slow??
Gonna get an Holset HX35
I may need to get a different turbo manifold...
Did you say my car looks slow??
I have decided as my final decision, I will not be getting a Holset HX35 at this time. The seller decided to not sell it to me cuz he thought I was a scammer on Craigslist.
So I am going to do what Roofy suggested. I have done my research on the eBay turbos. I am going to buy a very similar turbo. I will then take it to a nearby turbo shop. They are going to balance it for me, and we will see where that gets me. I may later on, swap in genuine Garrett parts or another well known brand.
I will be doing this as I have the time to. I am in the middle of an engine swap on an S-10, fixing up my ATV, putting a motor on another ATV frame, and fixing my brothers ATV... Plus work. So updates may be scarce, but will do so as often as I have time. Thanks for the continuous help!! Someday I plan to make it to a Bash if I ever finish thing up.
Did you say my car looks slow??
Abe Jacobs wrote:Question #1: Should I remove the baffles in my valve cover?
Question #2: Should I add 1 more port to the baffled, or unbaffled valve cover for my catch can setup?
Here is an older thread that details whats inside the valve cover and what I've built in the past. I've not finished my build due to "life" and the things that come up, but I do have another cover done the same way that will end up in David Fairhurst's mp62'd eco in the near future.
Thread with pics of what the guts of your eco valve cover look like
Make sure you keep the restrictor inline. And honestly I wouldn't bother getting it rebalanced unless you can have it done dirt cheap. The newer EBay turbos are actually pretty decent. My Buddy had one on his Focus SVT that was OK after he put a restrictor inline with the oil feed. And his SRT-4 he has now has an eBay factory replacement style turbo on it. We are getting ready to switch his car to E85 and should have 350+hp and 400+ tq when its all said and done.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
eBay turbo ftw!
I think mine came from cxracing on eBay. It appears to have been balanced. It seems solid. With how my old $150 eBay special worked, I'm not afraid of it.
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
It has been done....
I have bought an eBay turbo...
I will not knock it till I try it. I will try to keep y'alls updated on this turbo. To be honest, I plan on getting a different turbo down the line. I am going to take it easy on this turbo till the "break in" period is over.
Here's the turbo I bought....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290516194916
It is the same turbo as what I have, the difference is.... It is oil cooled only. So replacement water lines... yay (sarcastic like)
So here's the deal. I checked the WG and I believe (if my eyes saw correctly) that the WG is not closing all the way... so how do I fix that?
I have a huge list of things that I have bought for this build. I have only a couple things left. Let me know if I left anything out...
Turbo = eBay turbo (as of now)
Wastegate (external) = Tial Sport 38mm
Turbo Manifold = Yes (forgot the brand)
Downpipe Flange = atpturbo.com 3" outlet
Downpipe = 3" SS
Braided oil lines w/fittings = -10an drain, -4an feed w/.035" restrictor
2" Pipe for charge pipes = SS
Connectors and clamps = 4 ply silicone & t-bolt clamps
BOV and flange = Tial 50mm
Bigger Injectors = 60# Siemens
Boost controller = Profec II (electronic)
Intake Mani = RDFabs 4" Plenum w/LS1 TB
Air filter = 3" inlet K&N
Intercooler = 2.5" in/out (forgot the dimensions)
Gauge pod = GlowShift 3 pod
Boost Gauge = GlowShift Elite 10-color
Oil Pressure Gauge =
AFR Gauge = Innovate Motorsports LC-1
Colder Spark Plugs = NGK Iridium's 2 steps colder
Screw-in GM IAT Sensor = OE replacement
Clutch = Spec Stage 3, 6-puck
These are the things I have yet to get. Is there any good brands that I should really want or at least any brand I should stay away from?
FMU =
Inline/In tank pump =
FPR =
Oh and how is the best way to break in a turbo? I don't wanna break another anytime soon.
Did you say my car looks slow??
Fuel pump - Aeromotive 340
FPR - Accel adjustable FPR for 93-97 LT1 Camaro
FMU - Not needed IMO
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Roofy wrote:Fuel pump - Aeromotive 340
FPR - Accel adjustable FPR for 93-97 LT1 Camaro
FMU - Not needed IMO
Agreed except I suggest the Aeromotive 13106 adjustable FPR
"In Oldskool we trust"
Y3llowCav wrote:Roofy wrote:Fuel pump - Aeromotive 340
FPR - Accel adjustable FPR for 93-97 LT1 Camaro
FMU - Not needed IMO
Agreed except I suggest the Aeromotive 13106 adjustable FPR
The 13106 is the Corvette LT1 regulator. It is the same except the mounting bracket is backwards. The 13107 is the correct one that will fit the Ecotec engine. Either way, Aeromotive or Accel is a good choice. I just went with the accel because Summit Racing stocks it and they're an hour and a half from me.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
I've been researching fuel items and prices. But my best friend made the comment of "You don't really need an AFPR since you have HPTuners."
I've been looking at the sticky's and trying to understand it. So between me not fully understanding them, my friend saying that I don't need one, and you guys saying that I should get one... I'm all sorts of lost and confused.
Question: In very simple terms what does an AFPR do? And do I really need it with my setup?
Did you say my car looks slow??
Mikes right 13107 is the correct one my mistake.
The point is you can adjust the base fuel pressure to where ever you want it. It can help you if you find your injectors are just a little too small or if you want to get your injector duty cycle down a little. Most importantly, the aeromotive (can't speak for the accel) is boost referenced. Meaning it adds fuel via upping the fuel pressure as it reads more and more boost. It comes in handy and has been pretty helpful to me in the past while tuning with hpt.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Awesome man, looks nice!
Abe Jacobs wrote:Also.. When I do get my exhaust, I want a deep rumble. Not exactly LOUD. But a nice rumble.. Any suggestions?
Run a cat, stock or high flow, doesn't matter. Use the biggest resonator you can possibly fit in there; I'm personally using a trailblazer resonator. Look into some sort of performance muffler. If you want a little quieter at low rpm, dynomax super turbo(I plan to go this route eventually. If you want louder, any glass pack that isn't a straight through can design(mine is a no name brand).
"In Oldskool we trust"
That crack is kind of normal from my understanding.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO