Hello all,
Newbie here. Great organization you people have here. Sorry if this has been asked before. I am going to purchase a 1996 cav today. manual trans. Basically, I'm looking to use it as a daily driver to and from work and a toy to just putter around with. I have 2 newer vehicles which I don't dare mention on this site. After looking over this site I like what you guys have done to some of your rides. My question:
Is there anything in particular I should be looking for during the car inspection ? I am buying from a private party. Car seems to run fine. It has the usual dents and dings. Any tell tale signs that I should be aware of as to major problems ? NAy help wopuld be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Just check for the usual things in the engine bay...oil leaks, puddles under the car, chewed up or cut wiring. Take it for a drive if possible and listen for any unusual noises. If they will let you have a mechanic look over the car for you and just tell them you want to buy it and want the thing checked out.
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Check for rust, epecially along the rocker panels. Check for oil and coolant leaks, especially if it's a 2.2. Open the pressure cap and look at the coolant. If it's abnormally low, ask the owner why it's like that. If it looks like a chocolate milkshake, then steer clear. If it looks like its brand new, ask the owner if it's been changed and why. If you see some dirt in the coolant, then it might need a flush. Also, make sure to check the oil. If it's a bit black looking, then don't worry but if it's black as tar or more than a quart low then the engine may have an oil leak. Take it out for at least a 15 minute test drive. Try to find an empty parking lot and test the ABS, then stop, put the handbrake on and try to move to see if it holds. Drive in a straight line and swerve left and right a few times, listening for unusual noises. Let the car idle, then slowly let the clutch pedal up until you feel it bite. It should start to grip before the pedal comes halfway off the floor. Now, drive about 10 mph in 1st, then press the gas pedal quickly and let off quickly. If in doing this you head any clunks, then a motor or transmission mount may be worn. Lastly, get out of the car and bounce the suspension at all 4 corners. Push down on the car, then watch to see how the suspension reacts. If it rebounds more than 1 1/2 times, then the strut may need replacement. On the way back from the test drive, try to find a few small holes to drive through. Listen to and feel how the car reacts. It shouldn't wander sideways or shudder. When you get back to the owner's yard, open the trunk and pull up the trunk liner and look for any rusting. Make some small talk with the owner, ask him how long he/she's had it, why they're getting rid of it, has it given them any problems. Check the registration and title just to make sure the car is actually in their name. Remember, if you get any sort of feeling that something isn't right, then don't hesitate to walk away.
Thanks guys. That was some helpful information, I really appreciate your advice.
Thanks,
Andy
Look for unusual amounts of undercoating on the wheel wells and frame, I'm talking like if it looks like the undercoating is "melting off" the owner is trying to hide something. Undercoating isn't bad, it helps protect the car from harsh winters and the such, but to much is a sign of something is being hidden. Check the body, if some panels are glossier then others, it's be repaired. If you can, find a parking garage or somewhere where you'll see the lights. If they're not aligned right, they've been tampered with. If you can, jack the car up and "shimmy" the front wheels, pulling one end towards yourself and the other towards the car, if the wheel moves, it needs tie-rod ends. Push down on the fenders and quarters, if you notice the shocks and struts give in or you hear any unusual noises, it probably will need shocks and struts in the future. Drive the car, drive the car, drive the car. Take notes on any noises you hear and ask questions. Check all the fluids, if the oil is dirty and feels "gummy" on your fingers, it needs to be changed. Start the car, put it in neutral and check the trans fluid a few times while it's running. A few bubbles in the trans fluid isn't bad, but a lot means it's low and might even have a leak somewhere. Take a smell of the trans fluid, to me trans fluid has a smell similar to pine trees (but that's me) if it's brownish or smells burnt, change the fluid, filter and a new gasket won't hurt either. If you notice when you drop the pan and theres little silver shavings shaped like a 6 and tons a little shavings on the magnet in the pan, the car has been driven hard. DO NOT GET A TRANS FLUSH FROM THE CORNER OIL CHANGE JOINT!!! (if the car has over 75k miles) While this does clean the trans, it will pull the dirt/junk/whatever out of the torque converter and will seize the pump inside your transmission. In all honesty, I don't recommend them at all for any amount of mileage. If the owner will let you, take the wheels off and check the rotors, pads, shoes and drums. If the rotors look pitted or have deep gouges in them, get them turned down or new ones. Smack the rear drums off with a hammer, if you notice the same thing on the drums as the rotors, change them. Also look like chunks missing out of them if they're old, moisture will get in them and during hard brakes your back tires can lock up. Get in the car and mash down on the brakes (while the car is off) until you can't push the pedal down anymore, but keep pressure on the pedal. If you notice the brakes let go, you may have a bad line or even a bad master cylinder. If the brakes feel "spongey" or pull to the right or left during a hard brake, you're going to need some new calipers. Check out the cluster display, look at the odometer, if you can see silver lines in between the numbers, it's been tampered with. I can go on and on, but if you're lazy, have a credit card with $20 on it, go to carfax.com, punch in the vin and it'll bring up the history of the vehicle. Hope this helps.