here's the backstory. friend's got an abandoned '91 cugar with a 5L engine. we've got no other use for it, so we've decided to make it a drag car. the goal? go as fast as possible while spending as little as possible. so far all parts have been donated to the cause. so all we've got to spend money on is gaskets and liquids.
parts list so far
e-cam
1.7 RR's
50-150 shot of nitrous with window switch
long tubes
probably a home made intake of some type
80mm MAF
30# injectors
we'll be porting out the TB, intake, and heads, all by hand (what do we care if we mess it up a little?)
ET streets
complete and total weight reduction. no interior/seats/center console. dash, ect. no spare tire, we'll be removing the spare tire well.
we need to figure out something to do with the windows and such. glass weighs a lot... but other stuff costs money, and we're poor
anyone know if a shift kit from an AOD-E tranny would work in an AOD tranny?
and anyone know what the rear end gearing is in those things?
our plan is to hit a faster time than a local honda guy who's completly stripped out a CRX, put a turbo engine in, and has created the local import pride. a pure drag honda. he was hoping for high 12's... first track outing hit a 13.4 (i was guessing he would run 13.2ish) . from what i understand he's put quite a bit of money into it. but really... we're just trying to see how far we can take this thing.
so, any ideas of what else we need or would help? we're just shootin ideas around right now. weight reduction went on today, i think we're going to get the nitrous in tomorrow, minus drilling the intake for the jets. i was wanting a 2nd nitrous kit to hook up, almost like a second stage so we could use two smaller shots as opposed to one bigger one. any suggestions for ideas are welcome. we've got tons of friends with tons of parts and tallent. i'll post pictures as we go (dont have any right now) and time eventualy, but that'll probably be a different thread, it'll be a while before it gets done.
Andy
it's not how fast you go, it's how you get there that counts.
ZZP XP cam, 1.6 rockers, 105# springs, speedbuilt FWI, 3.3" modular pulley, TOG headers,
3" exhaust, flomatched injectors
'97 GTP 14.06@100.6mph pre cam w/ 3.5" pulley, I/E
Removing the spare tire well? Unless you're going to leave a hole in the bottom of the car, you will not lose much weight. Tell peeps you did STW delete mod, they will be like, WTF? BTW: cougar 5.0 = 200hp
This is an awesome project. I look forward to hearing your results. Only advice I can offer: Since you don't stand a good chance of getting lower gears on the cheap, I'd say see if you can find smaller and lighter wheels to use. You'll still get the numerically higher ratios (though not as big of a change as a gear swap) and you'll lose some weight.
remove the crash guard stuff behind the bumpers. Definitetly remove the front sway bar for weight savings and better weight transfer, but leave the rear sway bar on so it'll leave the line straight. Remove all the heat and ac stuff. Anyone have an old fuel cell laying around? I have seen people make brackets with pins to hold the door glass up when they gut the doors but you have to raise them by hand and it's a bitch. You could always make windows out of plexiglass.
Does that have a solid 8.8 axle in it like the mustang or irs like the newer t birds? I bet that thing has highway gears...
Here's an idea of some weight reduction items(I know it's for an f body but it still applies)
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17319
bigj480 wrote:Removing the spare tire well? Unless you're going to leave a hole in the bottom of the car, you will not lose much weight. Tell peeps you did STW delete mod, they will be like, WTF? BTW: cougar 5.0 = 200hp
we're doing this more to make fun of the CRX guy than anything. he removed his, and cut out his back bumper for "aerodynamic purposes". so we want to cut down drag too! we'l be welding some sheet metal on top of it so it's just a flat spot.
it's one of the newer t-birds with an IRS (man, i didtn know they had those. surprised the hell outta me). however, i think a friend of mine has an 8.8 from his wrecked stang that we can stick on there. it's a 4 lug, but oh well. also, we're pretty sure we've got a friend with 3.73's just sittin around that we're planning on borrowing.
all non useful engine drag will be removed. AC, power stearing, possibly the alternator if we can get enough batteries. anyone know if they make belts small enough to run just the water pump?
we're thinking about getting some spare tires and using them as skinnies for the front... though im worried about them going faster than 80 mph and having to take the weight of the car braking when the runs are over. we're going to highway 41 dragway in maracco, if anyone knows where it is, and we're curious if the "skinnies" would pass inspection. they're usually pretty lenient on that stuff.
Andy
it's not how fast you go, it's how you get there that counts.
ZZP XP cam, 1.6 rockers, 105# springs, speedbuilt FWI, 3.3" modular pulley, TOG headers,
3" exhaust, flomatched injectors
'97 GTP 14.06@100.6mph pre cam w/ 3.5" pulley, I/E
get an electric water pump, then you won't need any belts
Ian Brown Music wrote:get an electric water pump, then you won't need any belts
$$$$$. no one we have has one
Andy
it's not how fast you go, it's how you get there that counts.
ZZP XP cam, 1.6 rockers, 105# springs, speedbuilt FWI, 3.3" modular pulley, TOG headers,
3" exhaust, flomatched injectors
'97 GTP 14.06@100.6mph pre cam w/ 3.5" pulley, I/E
Do you really need 30# injectors? Is that maf callibrated for them? 80mm maf?
Might be a slight overkill for your set-up. Somewhere in the neighborhood of a 70-76mm MAF calibrated for 24# injectors would be nice...especilly if matched with a 70mm t.b.
Since you don't stand a good chance of getting lower gears on the cheap,
Quote:
Huh??? You can get them cheap as hell. The install is where the $$$ is. If you install them yourself they'll only cost a little over $100.
You're probably gonna wanna get some gears too. Depending what you already have in there 3.73-4.10's can shave up to .5 seconds. They make a BIG difference!!!!!!! What gears are in the rear now? Anything less than 3.55's is gonna kill you. You really need to find out what gears are in that thing.
If you dont see mid-high 12's...I'd be pissed! All depends on how you hook.
5pointO
dman...that got messes up...lol.
Lets try that again.
Do you really need 30# injectors? Is that maf callibrated for them? 80mm maf?
Might be a slight overkill for your set-up. Somewhere in the neighborhood of a 70-76mm MAF calibrated for 24# injectors would be nice...especilly if matched with a 70mm t.b.
Quote:
Since you don't stand a good chance of getting lower gears on the cheap,
Huh??? You can get them cheap as hell. The install is where the $$$ is. If you install them yourself they'll only cost a little over $100.
You're probably gonna wanna get some gears too. Depending what you already have in there 3.73-4.10's can shave up to .5 seconds. They make a BIG difference!!!!!!! What gears are in the rear now? Anything less than 3.55's is gonna kill you. You really need to find out what gears are in that thing.
If you dont see mid-high 12's...I'd be pissed! All depends on how you hook.
5pointO
mid-high 12's would be for a 100 shot.
5pointO
almost forgot....is this a wet or dry kit?
If it a dry kit your probably gonna want a better fuel pump.
Alos....youre probably gonna want to keep the timing at the stock setting...or close to it.
5pointO
as far as gears go, i have no idea what gears are in it. but impretty sure we can get some 3.73's donated. and i really do want that IRS outta there. i dont trust the half shafts.
i believe the MAF is calibrated to the 30#'s, and even if it's overkill, i'd rather run it rich than lean. i want to get at least a few runs outta this thing before we blow it up. we're going to start with a 75 shot and progress to a 150, as long as things go well.
Quote:
If you dont see mid-high 12's...I'd be pissed! All depends on how you hook.
we'll be using ET streets, hopefuly, so if we dont hook, im gonna be mad. we're not using the gas off the line. the windows switch is from 3K-6K, hopefuly we'll be shifting around 6200-6300. i just hope the stock valve springs can hold up to that much RPM.
and you know what they say, go big or go home. a cammed ford 5L with long tubes with $0 in it's pretty good, and if it hits 12's, it'll be big, too
. let's just hope the boom isnt that big, there's about a 50% chance i'll be driving it
Andy
it's not how fast you go, it's how you get there that counts.
ZZP XP cam, 1.6 rockers, 105# springs, speedbuilt FWI, 3.3" modular pulley, TOG headers,
3" exhaust, flomatched injectors
'97 GTP 14.06@100.6mph pre cam w/ 3.5" pulley, I/E
anything you guys can think of that would make the tranny hold up longer? i think we're gonna blow it in the first couple runs
Andy
it's not how fast you go, it's how you get there that counts.
ZZP XP cam, 1.6 rockers, 105# springs, speedbuilt FWI, 3.3" modular pulley, TOG headers,
3" exhaust, flomatched injectors
'97 GTP 14.06@100.6mph pre cam w/ 3.5" pulley, I/E
It would be cool if someone had an old stall convertor around that you could use.... or do some research and see if any other ford products with that same tranny had a higher factory stall and hit the junkyard and grab it for like $10. As for the tranny I think probaby all you could do is put on an aftermarket cooler(you can buy a big cooler @ a hardware store for cheap) to make it last longer.
You could also gut the underside of the hood(braces, hinges, latch, etc) and make it a lift off hood (you can make hood pins out of bolts and pins for cheap) my friend does that on derby cars. What about cutting out/taking out the front inner fender wells? You can also usually find one of those old crappy fiberglass racing seats without the vinyl covers for free/near free.
I think it would be cool to tint the windows real dark so nobody can see that it's gutted inside...kind of a sleeper
I read in Car Craft magazine that alot of people use those irs t bird/cougar rears in cobra kit cars so they must be somewhat strong...
Sweet idea! Post pics of your progess!
"Remember do what you like because you have to drive it."--Me
24zeta wrote:Sweet idea! Post pics of your progess!
thanks man. ask, and you shall receive. though it's a crappy picture just of us working on it
quick engine question if you guys know. from 88-92 the mustang 5.0L engines had forged internals. does anyone know if that exact engine is shared with the cugar? or did they start using the hyperuteptic pistons in the cugars earlier than the stangs. thanks!
Andy
it's not how fast you go, it's how you get there that counts.
ZZP XP cam, 1.6 rockers, 105# springs, speedbuilt FWI, 3.3" modular pulley, TOG headers,
3" exhaust, flomatched injectors
'97 GTP 14.06@100.6mph pre cam w/ 3.5" pulley, I/E
i am *pretty sure* its the same motor in and out
I though the forged internals started in 89?
5pointO
Lash wrote:I though the forged internals started in 89?
eh, maybe they did. but i know they were in the '91 mustang engines. dunno about cugar engines, though.
Andy
it's not how fast you go, it's how you get there that counts.
ZZP XP cam, 1.6 rockers, 105# springs, speedbuilt FWI, 3.3" modular pulley, TOG headers,
3" exhaust, flomatched injectors
'97 GTP 14.06@100.6mph pre cam w/ 3.5" pulley, I/E
