We did use a 2200 ECU, but loaded a LD9 reflash so it would be the same as what you have now.
We would get spikes, but problem being is Roberts knock sensor was never connected properly. Since we used a 2001 2200 ECU it had the one wire knock sensor, but the LD9 reflash is for a 2 wire knock sensor. I have my doubts weather we were getting correct readings. We were looking into swapping the wiring connectors to make it be correct. Never got to that.
FU Tuning
I hate knock....im reading it on my SS/TC......I dont even want to know what my Z24 will be reading once im done with it.
I was logging up to 8 degees of KR. Installing a intake without a updated tune was worse!
Anyways im glad you figured it out. Ish happens when modifying and upgrading....you learn from it.....and get better.
GMR has got nothing on this
what are the major differences if any, between the LK9 and LSJ options?
It sounds like Im going to have a real fun time trying to get timing down with any motor other than the L61...but thats why you guinea pigs..err i mean fine fellow jbody owners are there to help
Im going to try to go through Evils builds and see if this info is in there, but i didnt at first. More options is always good as there are healthy rebuilt Saab motors to be had which expands your odds of finding a decent upgrade option.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
Lsj and lk9 are essentially the same motor (lsj's even have Saab stamps on them). Only difference is the LK9 has a hole in the rear girdle to plug from the turbo oil drain line, and the intake side of the head has m6 holes for the manifold like the l61, as opposed to the m8 on the lsj. And the LK9 has slightly more aggressive cams (I think a bit more duration).
All in all, same motor, and in my opinion, the Saab is probably less likely to have been beaten on the lsj
yeah im definitely not wanting to deal with more broken bolts for the intake manifold to head...m8 only for me please when dealing with the m62 blower manifold!
I just hope if i hear back on the LSJ motor soon and i get it, my HPTuner guy can work some magic on my 05 Ecotec ECU with this LSJ setup. Its already dialed in for the set up i had before but obviously it'll need some tweaking.
Raf, how are you doing on your HPT knowledge..you going to start helping others with a tune?
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
blu04DD wrote:Its already dialed in for the set up i had before but obviously it'll need some tweaking.
Raf, how are you doing on your HPT knowledge..you going to start helping others with a tune?
One word of caution bud.....The tune wasnt "dialed" in. Please for the love of your new motor....take it easy on it until the tune actually isnt knocking like a mofo.
Anyone know why exaxctly does an LD9 reflash produces false knock on an ecotec? I swapped and also did the knock fast attack adjustment in case, but was looking at rockauto pictures of the sensor on LD9 and ecotec and its seems to be the same. (Same part number also IIRC).
Is because of a different location and internal knock detection maps are adjusted to fit the location ect?
Thanks for the info
Vincent Roy-C. wrote:Anyone know why exaxctly does an LD9 reflash produces false knock on an ecotec? I swapped and also did the knock fast attack adjustment in case, but was looking at rockauto pictures of the sensor on LD9 and ecotec and its seems to be the same. (Same part number also IIRC).
Is because of a different location and internal knock detection maps are adjusted to fit the location ect?
Thanks for the info
My guess would be the difference between the steel block and aluminium block.
FU Tuning
My guess is the harmonics of both engines are different. Has anyone compared the L61 to the LD9 for the knock sensor settings?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- Enforcer wrote:My guess is the harmonics of both engines are different. Has anyone compared the L61 to the LD9 for the knock sensor settings?
I mean one block is iron and the other is aluminum. That has to be worth something.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Well, I am lost there. Anyone has thoughts on a good safe timing for 15 psi on stock L61, t3/t4, stock compression, because I'm about to drop the knock detection at all. Here's what I see:
- No matter what I set in knock fast attack rate and in max KR on PE I get half of it when peak boost/airflow comes in between 4300 and 4800 and I get max KR when going past 5200
- Also, when it kicks in (cause sometimes it doesn't but not often) I don't here any weird engine sound and I also can feel the power loss. I am literally losing power because timing gets too low.
- when it kicks in, timing goes down to as low as 8*........
- For the rare time it does not kick in, power is constant and good.
- My timing settings are around 12-13* at WOT HO (PE) and 10* WOT LO (PE)
- When in boost my AFR is always between 11 and 12
- LNF AcDelco plugs
- 91 pump (we only have that sh*t around here)
Any thoughts, help, timing suggestion, advice, anything can help me.
I know its not safe to drop the knock detection, but many megasquirt guys don't have the module and are able to achieve what they want. Just have to be safe and don't abuse on timing.
Anyway, HELP!
(Other than that the LD9 reflash is great af IMHO)
Why are you running LNF plugs and not L61 plugs....like the ones used on the M62 build? Also, what plug gap are those?
Is anything hitting the engine under power. Exhaust, or anyyhing else. What engine / Trans mounts are you running? Do you have a log of the knock, or at least a scene shot of when it is knocking like a SOB?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Lnf plugs with stock gap.
Other than exhaust hitting the chassi a bit nothing hits the engine. And well I just blew piston number 4 ring land
.
I guess it might have been knocking for real...
Any idea how much timing should be pulled(to begin with) from stock ld9 reflash when using it with ln2 icm and coils? Some one told me there is inner advance integrated in the icm, is it true?
Any help is appreciated.
I've never seen an lnf plug so I can't confirm that they are correct. LSJ/LK9 plugs are definitely shorter. Did you hold them side by side to confirm that they're the same length?
Exhaust hitting the chassis can cause a ton of false knock on older, single sensor systems like these. I would look into getting that resolved. I've seen muffler rattles all the way in the back cause issues.
It's tough to tell without a log but speaking VERY generally, your timing numbers seem fine. At least, they're not way out of the park and dangerous.
Almost all distributorless ignition systems are 10 degrees base advance. That's probably what that person meant by "internal", which isn't a thing.
Sucks about the ringland, happened to my LK9 bottom end too. Though i suspect that it was due to being run hot and super high EGTs.
"In Oldskool we trust"
LNF and L61 are the same as far as thread pitch etc.. The NGK 3787's come gapped at .032 stock. I highly recommend these on L61 boost cars as they are also a step colder with a good gap to start.
Ringlands are weak link on stock L61's. It could have been detonating, but it could have just been from the pressure.
FU Tuning
I would look into the exhaust hitting anything. I'm sure it is adding a bunch of false knock. I would go with john on the plugs.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO