I borrowed my friends buffer a couple of months age and did my first buffing job...... it turned out, well to say the least half- ass job........ some of the scracthes are gone, but the swirls are still around..... however the thing that bothers me is if the lighting is right, I can see a haze, or foggyness to the areas I buffed, it's from the circular motion of the buffer, similar to swirl marks, but worst.
Is there anyway I can fix this??? I might just bring it to a detailing shop this spring and have them fix it........it is fixable right???
Hopefully you did not burn through he paint. What I would try is some polish. Should take care of all of it. Just make sure you use the right pad for the right polish and you will be golden. The polish will get rid of the swirl marks from the buffer and the hazy look. Unless you burnt through. Good luck.
i found out that it`s the speed that counts , so if you move slow with the buffer it will geneerate allof of heat which is good so you can pull out scratches, another one is how you move the buffer around on the metal if you use long strokes short strokes
there are allot of variables that come inot play when buffing
using the correct compound and the correct cutting pad and polishing pad
it almost sounds like you have some real bad swirl marks so it kind of tells me you went to hard with the cutting padand moved to fast i could be wrong but that `s what it sounds like
i like to work a small arear of a 3x3 space then move on to the reat of the panle still using that 3x3 mentality moving slow cleaning the pad with the spur
polishing using the correct products and the 3x3 i also like to use water when i polish
like i spray bottle just mist the water on the metal with the compound viola!!! like @!#$in glass
if it is that @!#$ up leave it alone and let someone else fix it you might make it worse
can i haz bondo
How could u tell if u burn thru the paint??? I am 99% sure I didn't cause u can't notice the haziness, unless the lighting is right, then the truth is seen.
As far as moving too fast and hard with the buffer..... you are right big daddy, my first mistake......... I hope polishing it will do the job, but I'll let a shop do it this spring, so I don't mess up anymore. I'll try to gain my buffing skills on a beater next time, just to be safe.
LOL, if you burn the paint you would see bare metal.
Clouds in your paint sounds more like oxidation and maybe some scratches.
Use a precleaner to remove old wax, fine scratches, oxidation and bug/leaf stains.
Second step is using a good buffing compound(what did you use to buff your car?), If you have the money (and time), I suggest getting a compound called "Black Pearl".
Use BP01 (cinnamon scented) first on the whole car, this will remove all imperfections(as long as they are not too bad).
Next, use BP03(it's banana scented
) on the whole car this will bring out a deep gloss shine.
Finally, use BP05 (watermelon scented, reminds me of scented markers when I was young), this goes on by hand or with an random orbital buffer, it will look better then it's ever looked before and I will put money on it.
I have been using the products from this company since 1988, Carbrite is the best I have found anywhere(and I have tried almost all of them), they started out in 1947 so i guess they had some time to perfect their products.
i just run mine through a touchless car wash once a week. and it seems to keep it clean, but having, black even the minot scuff shows badly in daylight
yeah i think i'd go with big daddy on this one sounds like ya burned the paint. was water used? what where you using ? rubbing compond? heavy duty, fine scratch remover. when i started learning i was told to start with a smooth compond first and try a area not so notice able lol like someone elses car! with the fine compond if you feel like your buffing and buffing forever and nothings looking better than kick it up to a deeper rubbing compond water is key! try and stay away from addives they don't help might make your car smell great but your look for shine not april fresh...i myself like 3m products but the most common used is turtle wax polish compound followed by just plain wax but yeah if the problems are here and there get a shop to do it and ask qustions as they go along
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/4235/jim25ek.jpg
james robert: I used 3m rubbing compound...etc........... I didn't burn thru my paint, thank god.
Kross: Thanks for the tip, I'll try it out this spring.... As long as I know that I can remove the haziness and buffing marks I'm happy.
Thanks for everyones input.
big daddy wrote:geneerate allof of heat which is good so you can pull out scratches
Heat is key to buffing, there is a fine line to perfect buffing, get the paint hot enough to remove impurities but do not burn it(burning paint is getting it too hot and will create a bare spot, paint will not discolor from buffing as long as you don't let the pad get dry.)
There is a fine line between perfect buffing and screwing it up.
There are actually acid based products that loosen the pigment in the paint to remove impurities. Apple Polishing Systems is what I used a acid wash would open the pigment in the paint and then a Teflon enriched wax was added into the actual paint itself, then a final chemical wash would seal everthing back up.
When I was detailing for a living, the company I worked for was the only one in Indiana certified to detail the "Ferrari Racing Team" cars, the system reduced drag by adding teflon into the cars finish.
DO NOT use water in the buffer process, using water when you are finishing with a polish is fine, but diluting the buffing compound with water isn't recommended at all.
I hope you can get some helpful info from my mindless ramblings
kross-where can i purchase black pearl products?
