When you do this for a 97 will the DRL light flash on the gauges?
not if you do it by cuting the wire in the cluster like shown. it should be fine. mine is.
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cool. Ill be doing it this sometime this week
do you have the instructions on how to do the fog lights with the high beams on the 00+
J TO ENVY wrote: whitie365 wrote:do you have the instructions on how to do the fog lights with the high beams on the 00+
I would like to know how to make the fog lights stay on with the brights on an '02 Sunfire GT as well.
me 3
Member of J-body of Michigan.
J TO ENVY wrote: whitie365 wrote:do you have the instructions on how to do the fog lights with the high beams on the 00+
I would like to know how to make the fog lights stay on with the brights on an '02 Sunfire GT as well.
This might work if someone wants to try it...
The fog light relay is a 4 pin (I don't know where it is, so someone else will need to post that...)
Go to the autoparts store and get a 5 pin bosch-style relay and socket. (fyi -- Cooling fan relay for a 1990 Cavalier 2.2 sedan is a 5 pin
)
Remove the relay and the plug. Cut the socket off one wire at a time, splicing it to the following wires on the new plug:
The orange wires go to pin 86 and 30. Green/white goes to 85, purple on the stock plug goes to 87. You will need to run a second connection to 87a on the 5 pin relay (the middle pin).
Fogs should come on as normal and stay on with the high beams.
Quote:
Internal Workings of Bosch relay:
When there is no difference of potential (voltage) across terminals 85 and 86 (the coil), the relay's movable contact (connected to terminal 30) is held, by spring tension, against the electrical contact which is connected to terminal 87a (the normally closed contact). In other words, when no voltage is applied the the relay coil, terminal 87a is connected to terminal 30. When 12 volts is applied to the relay coil (terminals 85 and 86), the movable contact (connected to terminal 30) is pulled down/in by the electromagnet (coil) so that it physically contacts the electrical contact which is connected to terminal 87. Again, in other words, if battery voltage is applied to the relay coil (terminals 85 and 86) terminal 30 will be connected to terminal 87. The red dashed line shows the path in which electrical current flows from/through terminal 30 to the contact of terminal 87a when the relay coil is NOT energized.
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
In english... 30 is the ground, 87 is the power when 12v is applied... by using a 5 pin relay instead of a 4, 87a (power when 12v is not applied) will have the fogs light up with the high beams.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:23 PM
I will really like the low beams to stay on when using the brights, can someone help with a scheme or something. Did the fogs and high beams, nice trick.
A correction to the original post (I have a tendancy to get pins reversed)...
86 is ground, 30 is 12v pos constant (battery source), 85 is the trigger wire...
Reference here:
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm
Ok.. for the dual high/low question, I'll start with a disclaimer:
This is only to be done with a dual beam set up (seperate bulb for high/low). Use of this mod with a single bulb setup will result in the bulb melting.
You are going to need 2 relays, one for each side. A 4 pin will work.
Pin 86 is the ground, 87 goes to the low beam positive (in parallel), 85 taps off the high beam positive wire, 30 goes to the battery....
When the high beams are activated, the relay will close, and the lows will stay on.
Thanks, how many amps should the relays be? 20-30 amps will be enough?
A 30 amp relay will be perfect.
It does not work, got the two relays (4 pins Bosch) did the wiring:
85 Hi beam +
86 Ground
87 low beam +
30 Battery
What´s wrong??? Reversed pins??? A friend told me I may need some diodes too??? Help
I want my low beams to stay on when using the brights because they aim too high and if I try to lower them since the headlight is one piece I f...the low beams
You have the pins right...
This worked flawlessly on my second gen cavi (can't do it with the Sunfire)...
If a diode is needed, it would go on the car side of where you spliced in the wire from pin 87. It would be a 6 amp diode, which are a bit hard to find...
Here's a quick paint drawing of how it should be wired up, let me know if this is how you have it...
Guess the thrid generation is diferent. As soon as I plug the relay I can hear it click this is with the lights off so something is wrong.
I think the drawing is not the same as you said before, nbrs. of 2 pins do not match the wires you said they should go to... anyway thanks. Tomorrow or monday I will find out how to do this on the 96 Z24 and when it is done I will post it.
Quote:
I think the drawing is not the same as you said before,
Its the same...
I wrote:Pin 86 is the ground, 87 goes to the low beam positive (in parallel), 85 taps off the high beam positive wire, 30 goes to the battery....
Referencing this setup for the pinout:
It follows those instructions.
Only thing I didn't do was label the pins in the paint drawing.
Very clear drawing for fog lights, since my car is a 96 all i did for them was cut the pink wire as was posted. Now for the the Low Beams to stay on with the Hi Beams, This is how I did it and it is working OK ,after two blown 15 amps left hi beam fuses, I got some help from my bro who knows his way in electronics :
You only need one relay, guess it is because the high beams are in parallel, the bosh 30 amp 4 pins, will be enough
1º Pin 30 to low beam ground
2º Pin 85 to positive hi beam
3º Pin 86 to ground hi beam
4º Pin 87 to ground
¡Voi la, when you turn the high beams you do not loose the low beams!
Only minus is I lost the bright pilot light on the dash.
Bright indicator on the dash is ok, just with the sun light I could not see it.
Quote:
Very clear drawing for fog lights, since my car is a 96 all i did for them was cut the pink wire as was posted. Now for the the Low Beams to stay on with the Hi Beams, This is how I did it and it is working OK ,after two blown 15 amps left hi beam fuses, I got some help from my bro who knows his way in electronics :
You only need one relay, guess it is because the high beams are in parallel, the bosh 30 amp 4 pins, will be enough
1º Pin 30 to low beam ground
2º Pin 85 to positive hi beam
3º Pin 86 to ground hi beam
4º Pin 87 to ground
Good deal
I knew GM did some crazy stuff with wiring, but putting them in parallel???
Quote:
For 95-97, simply find the DRL relay by the driver's side headlight (might have to remove the headlight) and pull out the relay, and look inside the relay for the prongs. Use the thin pliers to bend and twist to cut off #86, then plug it back in. Ta Da... no more DRLs.
No side effects?
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Sunday, January 28, 2007 1:40 AM
Nope, no side effects at all except for the blinking DRL in your gauge cluster. Just plug it back in and everything will go back to normal. Mine blinks and Im not going to worry about it til Im ready to take the dash apart to do some mods and I'll cover that up while im at it.
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So, you have to take off the dash to cover up the blinking light.... How is that harder than cutting one single wire?
(Just put a switch on it, if you want to be able to go back to stock)
Oh, and while we're at it... I pioneered the 00 one as well, did it before anyone else... but I must give credit where it's due - to "Blind Julius" who I sat with and discussed it at a J-car bash many years ago....
I'm gonna try something here in a couple weeks that will keep the DRL's on a 2k+ but kill them when the parking lights are on.
pin 87 to ground and 87a to complete the circuit on the DRLs... that should do it.
yay no i can my fogs with my brights
thanks alot
so, on an 03 will the idiot light on the dash remain on after disabling the DRL's?
)
