Should be pretty descent to start out with, but I recommend this.......
click here
i recommend that brand of gun personally
So painting is a finesse deal. Too much paint and you will have runs. Too little and it wont cover. So you need to find that perfect medium. The best way is to test your spray pattern by turning the fan tip 90 degrees. So the wings are at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock and spraying your paint on a piece of masking paper taped to a wall. You want to spray a heavy spot. The paint will run that is ok. You want that run. Your paint spot should be Football shaped and the runs should all run equal length. If all the runs are equal length and you have good coverage. (No figure 8 shapes or heavy paint on one side) you should be ready to go wild. You will have to set up your gun to your compressor. Spray guns have 2positions on the trigger you can feel this when you pull the trigger. Step one just releases air. Step 2 releases air and paint. Hook the gun up to the compressor and pull the trigger a few times to get the feel for it. There are 2 adjustment screws on the gun one on the bottom that regulates air flow and one on the back that regulates fluid flow. As far as air goes you want a good study stream. Not just all out as much as you can blast thought he
Gun, but like around 90 psi. (Don’t quote me; you might want a little less).
As for paint it should flow smoothly. Spray a couple of spots on masking
Paper to check fluid flow out of the gun... When paint a vehicle or any thing for that matter you want the fan tips at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions this will give you an oval spray pattern. Like a foot ball points up and down. Start by pulling the trigger to release air and swing the gun across your panel. When the tip of the gun is about to cross over the panel pull the trigger all the way to release paint. At the end of the panel release the trigger to the air only position. You are pretty much blowing air all the time. On your next pass, (swinging right to left this time) you want to over lap your spray pattern by 50%. That is why paint flow is so important. Paint should lay down as a medium coat, not dry or wet. If it looks really glossy. Stop. Too much paint. Remember color should only cover primer. Gloss comes from the clear coat. Practice makes perfect. And it takes a lot of practice. Just remember you can always let it dry, sand out any
Imperfections, ands re spray. I hope this helps.
Print this off so you have it to reference.
a write up that my brother gave me when i was trying to paint my car and sideskirts
spork hit it pretty much on the head only things i saw were you prolly wont wanna spray at 90 psi with a good gun usually around 40-45 at the compressor should be good, make sure you buy a good water/air seaperator to put on your compressor and when you first lay paint it will look pretty glossy but that is just because its still wet but if your laying your paint and it looks real flat and dry then you can lay it a little heaver, it just takes a lot of practice to know how much and all that, but take what he said and times that by 1000 then go read every other paint related thread on any websites before you even use the gun, theres a lot of little stuff involved in making a really good paintjob, its a lot more work then most people think, you will need a lot of practice, and that gun kit meckster posted up looks like a real good place to start i have never used devilbliss guns before my i personally use a satajet 3000 and a satajet klc 1.7 to primer with but i wouldnt recomend looking into stuff like those unless you are sure you wanna do this kinda stuff a lot, but everything i have heard about devilbliss has been good stuff so that kit would more then likley be a good start, if you get started and have some more questions on specfic stuff dont worry about askin there are plenty of good bodymen on this site that can help ya out, good luck
yeah 90 psi is just a weeee bit much. 40-45 is a good number. Too high of a psi and you'll waste a lot of material and get a ton of overspray, and while primer is primarily a scratch filler, you don't want the texture of your primer to look like 40 grit sandpaper when it's sprayed and dried.
Primer isn't bad to spray, and 1.8 tip is a good choice for primer... it's the base/clear that is a little trickier. If you mess up spraying primer is easy to fix, when you get to the base/clear it's a little more difficult to fix since basically you'll have to respray the panel again most likely, and you have to know what imperfections can occur and the proper way of taking care of them, such as lifting, fish eyes, etc.
I bought that same spray gun at my local automotive paint store. They said it was a decent gun. I've primered my entire 76 MG with it and it came out decent. I'll be using it for base and clear as well. Overall I like the gun, its the only gun I've owned so don't know about other ones but if you get it you would be disappointed with it. Good luck with your project.
Thanks Everyone and Thanks Very Much for typing all that info out.
I was talking to this old guy a few weeks ago and he told me as well not to spend much on my first spray gun because in the time a cheap one will last me, I would really know if I like it or not by then. So the Satajet's are not an option right now.
I hope to start this in a few weeks time.
Thanks Again.
It all depends on what type of primer you are spraying if you have never sprayed before a 1.8 tip is way out of your league no offense but it will run a 1.5 will be okay for you just keep the gun moving at a steady pace and follow body lines. The best primer out there is Martin Seynour TP520 it is like liquid body basically and lays out better than any dupont, ppg, spies hecker primer out there and will fill scratches with out looking like 40 grit sandpaper
No offense taken. Thats why I made this topic.
From the reading I have been doing on the internet most people were saying that the 1.8mm to 2.1(?)mm were the ones used for High build primers.
But if you say the 1.5mm works good with that primer you recommended I will go that route. Thanks!!!
i actually bought the second ebay link posted, the devilbiss starter stuff from autobodydepot w/ two guns and two cans. its definitely worth the money to learn from. painted a full race car with it. it wasn't perfect, but it looked damn good for the amount of money I spent on paint, the guns, and my entry level paint skills.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Don't forget, a water separator is mandatory in any kind of paint application...
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
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- Barely legal tint.
