well brand new ICM, Coils, and housing.......no spark.



Have power going into the Icm, and no signal coming out of it.


Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

............Interesting.......Is it possible the ICM could be a defect?? I'm rather stumped at this point... I'm gonna ask around the shop here and see if I can up with anything for you!!!




Cavalier z24......A poor man's Camaro....close enough, right?

Have you tried checking the cam sensor?? Shot in the dark but, that seems like the next option.




Cavalier z24......A poor man's Camaro....close enough, right?

Yep, I checked the cam sensor, but the car should run in batch fire mode with a bad or no cam sensor......if I remember correctly. I'm leaning towards a bad PCM at the moment.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Before you go with the pcm......I just had this idea....you said your crank sensor was covered in metal flakes correct? Thats basically one big magnet, sooo.....Maaaybe the sensor you put back in picked up all the left over (or more) flakes on it....If thats the case that sensor will still have trouble sending the waves...... Try checking the crank sensor and see if it has the flakes on it. If it does....you know what comes next...where are the flakes coming from? Rod bearing maybe? Not a sermon...Just a thought...hehehe...




Cavalier z24......A poor man's Camaro....close enough, right?

Nope shavings are coming from burnt rings on cylinder three.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

-MD- Enforcer wrote:Nope shavings are coming from burnt rings on cylinder three.

You sure that isn't leading to compression loss? As for why the car won't turn over, I am just as puzzled as most ppl here as to what is wrong. I would check back on everything that you have done first and then make a checklist as to what you haven't done yet. Also, the PCM should be a LAST RESORT cause it controls just about everything in the engine. Just my 2c.

Those shavings could still be disrupting the sensor if enough are present.... Can anyone verify that the car run in batch mode with the cam sensor unplugged?? Man...this blows...and its not even my car! haha.... PS...you cavy is the same color as mine! haha




Cavalier z24......A poor man's Camaro....close enough, right?

firegrillincavy wrote:

-MD- Enforcer wrote:Nope shavings are coming from burnt rings on cylinder three.

You sure that isn't leading to compression loss? As for why the car won't turn over, I am just as puzzled as most ppl here as to what is wrong. I would check back on everything that you have done first and then make a checklist as to what you haven't done yet. Also, the PCM should be a LAST RESORT cause it controls just about everything in the engine. Just my 2c.

Yeah, compression on the one cylinder is down around 40psi, but it has been for a while. Three are around 200psi, one is around 160ish.

HaVoC187 wrote:Those shavings could still be disrupting the sensor if enough are present.... Can anyone verify that the car run in batch mode with the cam sensor unplugged?? Man...this blows...and its not even my car! haha.... PS...you cavy is the same color as mine! haha

Yeah, most of the the guys with HO cams don't run a cam sensor.

Tomorrow, I'll be taking EVERYTHING apart again and making sure there is not to many shavings on all the sensors.


My goal is to get this motor running, and then do my motor swap.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Good luck... I'd like to hear about getting it running.... totally stumped.




Cavalier z24......A poor man's Camaro....close enough, right?

I'm having a similar problem. Do me a favor (if you have not figured it out yet). Go to the fuse block under the hood Use a test light and see if you are getting power to the green with white stripe on the fuel pump really when you turn the key on.

My car dies on me while driving last weekend. Thought it was fuel pump. Pump would not kick on. Next day car started ran fine. Next day car would not start, no pump kicking on. I was able to jump the fuel pump off, but still not start (means no spark).

I know the injectors and ignition system share a ground I think with the fuel pump relay. I also can not connect HPT to the ECU. I have tried another ECU same thing.



FU Tuning

John, mine did the EXACT same thing before my fuel pump died.


I was driving home from bowling getting on the freeway, and car just stalled. I pulled over came to a stop, and the car started right back up. The next day I went to a car wash washed the car, drove home, and it NEVER started again. Pump wouldn't turn on or anything.


My pump was 100% dead. The pump wouldn't even move when it was outside the car hooked up to a power supply.


I actually just checked that relay, but not the wiring to it. I also can not hook HPTuners to mine, but I can hook my scanner to the car and see there are no codes.......
I might just have to take a trip over and check the wires. It is driving me insane!


BTW, what RPM is your tach at when you try and start it. Mine is between 0 rpm and 8,000 rpm.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, August 03, 2009 4:42 AM

PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Mine is running. Not a fuel pump issue. When mine acted up I had no RPM, and no signal from the ECU. I could not connect to the ECU in the scanner, or editor. I believe it was a ignition switch issue.



FU Tuning

I hope to get out today and mess with it. I'm VERY MUCH HOPPING that is what it is.
What exactly did you change to get it running...the switch it self or the wiring.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

-MD- Enforcer wrote:I hope to get out today and mess with it. I'm VERY MUCH HOPPING that is what it is.
What exactly did you change to get it running...the switch it self or the wiring.

Funning thing nothing. I unpluged the switch (one of the 2 plugs going into it) to do some testing. Plugged it back in. Then went under the hood to the fuse block doing some testing. I grounded out the main poer to the fuel pump relay popping the fuse in the car. Replaced it and bam it started. Has everytime since.

If you take a test light to the green w/white wire going to the fuel pump relay and turn the key on it should light up for a short period of time. This is the signal from the ECU to turn the pump on. Pink wire is constant power when key is on. Black w/white is ground that goes to front of transmission. Grey is the one that sends power to pump and injectors (once relay clicks on).

If you are not getting a signal from the ECU to the relay I would start looking at the ign switch.



FU Tuning

Thanks for the help!



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

I want to hear about it running !




Cavalier z24......A poor man's Camaro....close enough, right?

I had a problem with the fuel pump not turning on in my car.I knew it wasnt the pump cause it was fairly new.I lifted up the back seat and checked for power and i had nothing.Fuses relay,everything was good.I replaced the ign switch.Not the key part but the electrical part.Put the new one in and the car still wouldnt start.Took out my factory manual and got the wiring diagram.I jumpered out thefuel pump relay and the car started right up.I traced all the wires,and when looked under the car at the ecu,i saw a few wires that were all @!#$ up.Turns out a rat or a squirell got under there and decided they wanted to eat the wires that went to my fuel pump,lol.Thats prob not the case with ur car,but stupid @!#$ like that will get u stumped for a few days trying to figure it out.


Peter
'06 Cobalt ss/sc W/G85 Package
Gm Stage II W/2.79" Pulley
K&N Drop In Filter
Custom Magnaflow Dual Exhaust

Ok, update of sorts.

The good:
After fixing a bad ground I can now talk freely with my PCM....with any scanner or diagnostic tool.

The bad:
Car still doesn't start because I have no signal at ALL from the crank or cam position sensors at all. Nothing....I mean nothing at all.
Also, my car is commanding -64 degree timing retard for some reason. Maybe because of the CrankPS and CamPS.

I'll updated more later after work.


PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Mike, you said the car sat for a while. Was it outside when sitting? Possible something got up in the bay and chewed some wiring harness? I've seen this on occasion with trucks or vans that have been sitting.

Don't know, just throwing something else out there.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

David, It was sitting inside a garage the entire time. Going to check the wiring later tonight. From the PCM all the way to each sensor.


Its going to be FUN!


I hope to be doing this later, and not this




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Ok.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Three more hours till I get to play in the 90 weather!



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

I would look more at the crank position sensor. The car can run fine without the cam position sensor.
Also is your fuel pump kicking on now?


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, August 10, 2009 11:31 AM


FU Tuning

Fuel pump has been kicking on fine.


PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO