I have spark, I also have new boots, plugs, ICM, coils, coils housing, and new lower resistance springs...

I have fuel at the fuel rail, I have 45ish PSI at the rail, I have a brand new FPR, rail, fuel pump, tank, fuel filter, and injectors....

My injectors are not firing, and was confirmed with niod lights. I have tried new and old injectors. HPTuners also show them not firing at all.

I have also replaced the PCM, CamPS, CrankPS, Ignition switch, checked engine wiring, fuses, and relays.

So yeah,

Before I had fuel, but no spark......now I have the opposite......The cav will fire over temporally with starting fluid.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

I know it's not on a cav, but a friend of mine just had this problem on a beretta. Went thru everything you did, and nothing. Out of luck he was trying to start it while i was pulling fuses out to double check them. When i pressed on back in it started up for a second then died. Ended up being the connector the fuse plugs into was just plain worn out. I know it's a long shot but worth a try to have a buddy jiggle your fuses while your trying to start it.

I do think there is a injector fuse inside the cabin.



FU Tuning

You say it sat since November. Did the battery die? If so, my 99 2.2 completely drained and the theft system engaged.You may want to try the 10 minute key-reset and go from there. I was ripping my hairout until I realized the theft light was still on.

This might be a long shot, I haven't seen pictures of your engine bay, but

How is your battery to chassis ground? I've had a lot of J's give me headaches with passlock because the battery to chassis wire was corroded. It could cause other resistance-based problems with PCMs and ECUs as well.

Too Whiney wrote:I do think there is a injector fuse inside the cabin.

Changed....it was blown when I changed my fuel pump.

bradsk88 wrote:This might be a long shot, I haven't seen pictures of your engine bay, but

How is your battery to chassis ground? I've had a lot of J's give me headaches with passlock because the battery to chassis wire was corroded. It could cause other resistance-based problems with PCMs and ECUs as well.

I'll recheck my ground there....and I'll be rechecking the ground in the cluster.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Sup Mike, your car runnin yet?










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Just an update of sorts. I'll be swapping clusters, PCMS, Ignition switches, and lock cylinders tomorrow. Wish me luck. I'll be swapping one at a time from the running z24 to the teal Z24.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Sweet.

Btw, do you have a running Z already?


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, February 10, 2011 10:42 AM








~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Yes, a red 99 auto Z24. It is a copy in all options as mine, but has a sunroof.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Update?










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Swapped pretty much everything back and forth. Teal cav still doesn't run. The red cav will run on ALL teal electronics.....





PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

WTH!! Man, I think it just wants to die.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Well I'm going to check the fuel pressure Friday, and go from there. If all else fails, I'll be swapping wiring harnesses.


PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

I have 60 PSI when cold, and about 45ish while cranking.

Anyone have any ideas on why my injectors are not firing?




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

did u take out the fuel injector harness and check it out?theres a splice in the loom that connects all the fuel injector grounds.maybe it corroded?


Peter
'06 Cobalt ss/sc W/G85 Package
Gm Stage II W/2.79" Pulley
K&N Drop In Filter
Custom Magnaflow Dual Exhaust

Nope, but I will now.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

damn, this thing has been down for quite a while. I hope you get it running soon.

I didnt read through the whole post but, i just had a 95 civic come to me bc it would not start, and it turnes out that the pcm was bad and not sending a signal to the injectors, causing the same problem ur haveing. replaced the pcm and fixed. maybe find a way to just swap out ur pcm and see if the car starts.

Mike Z A.K.A SNEEZY wrote:I didnt read through the whole post but, i just had a 95 civic come to me bc it would not start, and it turnes out that the pcm was bad and not sending a signal to the injectors, causing the same problem ur haveing. replaced the pcm and fixed. maybe find a way to just swap out ur pcm and see if the car starts.

Already swapped PCMs... No dice.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

After being down so long and throwing so much money at this thing, dont you think it may be time to take it to a dealership or qualified repair shop?

Wow, just read through all this. Just curious, was a bad fuel pump all that was wrong with your car to begin with before you put on the new one? I mean lets look at this here...if all you had wrong was a bad pump and you replaced that and it still doesn't start after all this time, I would be looking at the possibility that maybe the fuel pump may not be working properly. Have you tried the pump off of your other 99' just for kicks? If it were me, I would at least try that and rule the pump out since you know that you have a working one for sure on another identical car. Hook it up to factory spec. harness and all. It might sound rediculous, but you never know since you've just about replaced and checked everything else.


2000 2.2 3 speed 2-door, Stock...

I know these are two separate cars, but I had a 2001 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl with the exact same problem. Injectors did not fire, but had fuel pressure. It turned out to be my crank position sensor. It seems to be a decently cheap part. Either way, good luck and hope you get it fixed. Figured I would atleast share my .02 cents.

I was just going to say crank or cam position sensor.

Cameron Meyer wrote:After being down so long and throwing so much money at this thing, dont you think it may be time to take it to a dealership or qualified repair shop?

I'll be checking a few more grounds and wires, and buttoning everything up. If it doesn't start it is getting towed to the dealer for them to fix it. I have had other shops look at it. They all say... "it should run."

cavogreen wrote:Wow, just read through all this. Just curious, was a bad fuel pump all that was wrong with your car to begin with before you put on the new one? I mean lets look at this here...if all you had wrong was a bad pump and you replaced that and it still doesn't start after all this time, I would be looking at the possibility that maybe the fuel pump may not be working properly. Have you tried the pump off of your other 99' just for kicks? If it were me, I would at least try that and rule the pump out since you know that you have a working one for sure on another identical car. Hook it up to factory spec. harness and all. It might sound rediculous, but you never know since you've just about replaced and checked everything else.

I washed the car, and it never started again....The fuel pump was dead. It wouldn't even turn on with direct power. The rail is now getting more than 60psi while trying to start the car. I have a Fuel Pressure gauge in my rail. My injectors are not firing. I checked them with noid lights.

freelancer1988 wrote:I know these are two separate cars, but I had a 2001 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl with the exact same problem. Injectors did not fire, but had fuel pressure. It turned out to be my crank position sensor. It seems to be a decently cheap part. Either way, good luck and hope you get it fixed. Figured I would atleast share my .02 cents.

Mike Z A.K.A SNEEZY wrote:I was just going to say crank or cam position sensor.

I changed my CrankPS and my CamPS already. I also checked the wiring from the PCM to the Crank sensor to the ICM plug with a ohm meter.





PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO