Yes just about any, if you can provide calipers to use for mock up.
I just can't be running around collecting calipers for everyone unfortunately.
Want hub spacers? Shoot me a PM.
It could be done.
One thing though, if I were to do these I wouldn't be providing anything else. Just the brackets to mount and locate the caliper.
Want hub spacers? Shoot me a PM.
thats fine....its the same piston/caliper that wilwood uses for the Front of the JBOS
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
no see , i think a setup that you could buy easily from part stores and such would be good.
Todd Haworth wrote:no see , i think a setup that you could buy easily from part stores and such would be good.
I agree there. And aftermarket selection on integrated p-brake setup are either expensive or @!#$ty. I'd prefer a setup that will clear the stock alloys.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy wrote:Todd Haworth wrote:no see , i think a setup that you could buy easily from part stores and such would be good.
I agree there. And aftermarket selection on integrated p-brake setup are either expensive or @!#$ty. I'd prefer a setup that will clear the stock alloys.
Clear my stock 16s are a must for me.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
hey jeffie , what about making front and rear brackets to do what zsz did to his car? sti rotors front and back with camaro calipers in front and mustang calipers in back. To me this sounds like the ticket for anyone wanting a big brake upgrade without the big price. Also i was thinking a 1 peice spacer behind the rotor would be much better than the spacers people are using for the neon swaps and this sti rotor swap. Is this type of spacer possible ?
Possibly, the big thing to remember is "bigger isn't always better" the calipers chosen have to work properly within the stock MC range. If they don't then we will actually hurt braking.
I'd like to stick to just doing a bracket for the rears for now. One hurdle at a time you know.
Want hub spacers? Shoot me a PM.
so nobody has tried wilwoods internal drum parking brake kit? ive been thinking about ordering it and making it work but the cost would suck if they didnt?
I would be interested in a rear setup that I could used on my vert and retain the factory 16" wheels. I have contemplated the Neon swap but I like the sound of the simplicity of this swap. Just not the tiny rotor. For the Z I'll stick to the big brakes lol, It shouldn't put anymore stress on the MC than the NWF swap and Neon rear setups.
I would be fine with the saturn calipers since they work with the ebrake but I would prefer a bigger rotor possibly like a non 2004 sti Imprezza rotor, Its 10.3 inches .39 thick or neon rear rotors which are 10.6 and .35 thick. And no wilwood caliper....I want stuff that can be bought at a parts store. That would be my preference and I would definitely spend the money.
Quote:
Teh Jeffie
I was reading this whole thing
Your saying Saturn S Calipers will accept gm brake lines and E brake?
I would be fine just running them calipers its not like im racing my car but i would like rotors all the way around. But whats with the rotors any ideas that will just bolt on? what about neon rotors,Saturn S calipers?
if this would work i have money in hand for the brackets.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, April 13, 2011 8:12 PM
Neon rotors are too thick. I really think fiero rotors are the best looking option that I've found.
Oh FYI guys, you cannot redrill a 4x100 bolt pattern with a 5x100 pattern so redrilling the saturn rotors is not an option.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, April 13, 2011 8:14 PM
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
what would have to be done to make fiero rotors work?
Move the rotor out from the center of the wheel bearing a tad and maybe change the offset of the caliper.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
90 beretta rotors and calipers can be used on the fiero , but are a big upgrade for them. Its a vented instead of solid rotor and caliper has bigger piston.
Well any more headway?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
I ran out of patience trying to find rotors that work for the s-series. So I just ended up doing neon rears. Still interested in seeing this pan out.
subbed for interest.
I had contemplated something similar awhile ago using i believe early 80's Cadillac (seville i think....) calipers. The e-brake just squeezes the rotor. and the bracket takes the e-brake cable end.
you could use the front rotor from the cav but the rear hub needed to be machined from the outer diameter and i figured that was to much work for the average person if they need to swap bearings a few times for any reason.
But if the bracket could be adapted to a different bolt pattern for a different bearing it would solve some issues.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
G6? any thoughts on these discs? their rear bearing is practically identical to ours except theirs have studs pressed in to accept the nut on the rear side of the knuckle. if the measurements are all the same then all you would need is the bracket, caliper, rotor and go then. its sounds good on paper?
Try this-
1998 Saab 900. I can't speak for the caliper thread size, park brake cable interface, overall thickness (axle to rotor face), or rotor size offhand (although it is the same as a Saturn L series). The entire thing is a direct bolt on to the J body axle. IIRC, the Saab setup is like 3/8" thicker overall than the J body, but it's been like 6+ years since I did all that research. There were a couple of us looking into it. The Vauxhall Calibra (I think) is essentially the same thing as the 900, and GM Europe shared a lot of parts with Saab. I can't remember what the big drawback was, maybe availability? The Neon route was simpler in the end.
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Oh, and it uses lug studs, not nuts. Maybe that was the reason we didn't pursue it. I really can't remember
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