I'm done talking with someone who knows a few basic knowledge electrical equation but nothing about car audio, how amps work, power handling, power output or anything useful honestly. The fact that you think you're in need of a cap, let alone 2 completely nullifies this argument.
But to dig a little into the price you mentioned: you have a $100 head unit, $200 amp, maybe $300 sub/box setup and some cheap drop in speakers and somehow say you've got $1500 invested. Either you're a salesman's wet dream or your math isn't all you make it out to be. What's nuts is that I'm running high end sq brands and a much higher end alpine head unit and don't think I'm even over $1000 with wiring and install/organization accessories included.
you must be a magician. And a miserable one
you dont contribute to the convorsation at all dude I baught everything from store brand new so that i didnt have to wait and i had the convenience of be able to go to the store rather then deal with companies directly
my amp was 350
350 for box setup
120 cash fron front speakers
rears were like @!#$in 90 or somthin
deck was 140 after tax
cap was 114 after tax
wiring was around 100
150 roughly for alternator after the core charge
and battery was 140 give or take
how much are we at? i installed everything myself by the way but i had to pay for shop time at our auto club and i had things like the battery adapter for the side terminals and extra wire for a larger gound, vasalene and so on so yeah right around 1500
Kevin Keeping wrote:...So if that is your case which you say it is, a capacitor would constantly be discharging and charging at the same time in turn putting extra load on your circuit you sir are correct. That clearly is not the case for me.
He has a NEW type of capacitor that just makes his system awesome. It doesn't work like those old school capacitors, charging and discharging and sh
it.
Kevin Keeping wrote:...i had things like the battery adapter for the side terminals and extra wire for a larger gound, vasalene and so on so yeah right around 1500
Well, at least the store greased you first.
Kevin Keeping wrote:yeah the entire math lesson above was on the current going to the CAPACITOR for one. I need you to understand that.
ALSO do the same calculation on 100 amps of current which is my known current maximum.
(the acual specified amperage rating on the alternator was 114 amps but we will use 100 for the purpose of this debate)
your going to get 70.7 amps on the 1000 watt rms of the alternator.
Now is my amp fused at 75 amps? yes it absolutly is
what is the peak on it
700 x 1.414 = rougly 990 watts maximum + or - 1 %
so on the max bass hits if they are consistant i can pull 1000 watts through that amp yes i can if you say i cant go back to school.
SO the entire point of my lesson was
If i have over 1000 watts rms going to the capacitor, i most definently need a second one to sustain hard hits so i do not temporarily overload my alternator. and all of that was not including the power that the motor uses in itself, and the deck unit headlights, speakers and so on. But im glad to know these guys are the be all and end all and know everything there is to know about electricity in their vehicles.
I didnt put this form up to argue with a bunch of genious's i will never meet, i specifically ask for how i can improve my system. so far 4 channel amp for speakers, thank you anything else? Jason burton how do you propose i clean the install? i already have the box l bracketed to the strut towers and wires are all hidden within the car under the floormat. you cant see any wires unless you lower the back seats what do you suggest?
it doesnt matter what is going to the capaciter, it matters how much power is being pulled from your capaciter. get over this 1000 watts deal because your amp isn't that powerful. its only a 700 watt amp and that is at maximum output. 90% of the time its going to be half that. i think most people that have posted in this post have systems that actually put out over 1000 watts and have no need for a capaciter. im pushing 1200 watts from my two kicker amps with no dimming and no power issues. we have had several guys on here with 1700 watt systems with no need for caps. your not going to overload your alternator from a few single bass hits.
the size capaciter you would used is based off of the power your amps consume. not by how much amperage you can potentially flow thru a wire because you have a 100 amp fuse.
again. you have a 700 watt amp.
and yes jason was right. the main thing i remember from that video is the rats nest of wires when u had the back seat folded down.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sndsgood/ https://www.facebook.com/#!/Square1Photography
Jesus, for 350 you should have gotten a blowjob with that box and amp. Each.
no 700 watts rms on the amp yeah i proably should of
I am enjoying this thread like a boss. Please continue
-I drive my car to work-
Nice roach...
1999 - Cavalier - 5speed - Exhaust - 17" rims - carbon fiber hood - the beater
I can't believe you're still here. Trolls be trolling yo!
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Kevin Keeping wrote:no 700 watts rms on the amp yeah i proably should of
couple of the sites i looked at was calling it as 700 max.
regardless. buying another cap isn't going to get you a better sounding system. put that money towards some quality speakers up front with an amp to push them. and work on cleaning up your wires. the easiest way to do that would be to make a trim panel to fit over the opening with a window for where the amp is. that will easily hide all the wires and not make it look thrown in there. u can do the same thing for the sub side to make it look like a built in piece instead of just a box thrown in the trunk.
and if you make another video just don't go around going these are 400 watt 6x9's or what have you. it just makes you sound uneducated abut audio. are you feeding them 400 watts? if so then by all means say im feeding these speakers x amount of power. but when there being fed from the headunit in reality your really saying these are 10 watt speakers.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sndsgood/ https://www.facebook.com/#!/Square1Photography
My stereo is 2000 watts RMS, stock alt, no cap, no light dimming.
Stick around and read around and you'll get some good learn on.
SURE IT IS AND NEXY WEEK YOUR GUNNA BUY A SPACESHIP ARNT YOU
Nah man, I've got two of those. I'm good.
Kevin Keeping wrote:SURE IT IS AND NEXY WEEK YOUR GUNNA BUY A SPACESHIP ARNT YOU
listen, the alternators on these cars are pretty damn good. if you upgrade the big 3 and run your setup right you can run close to 2000 watts without any issues on these cars. again, there are several guys who run between 1000 and 2000 actual watts without dimming and without any issues.
as for what to use. use hardboard to make the trim panel. wrap it in whatever material you want. if u want to make the window out of plexi you can. just make sure you have enough ventilation to keep the amp cool.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sndsgood/ https://www.facebook.com/#!/Square1Photography
Car Audio Guru wrote:Yeah, volume goes up to 40.. uhhh..but thats pretty crazy for where I live.. I dont wanna piss everybody off.
**Looks around rainy empty parking lot**
Meanwhile, Inside the apartment complex:
"HUNNY!? That Kevin kid is at the back of the parking lot cheechin jasmines and bumping his big box store system again!!"
"Doesn't he know it is under-capped?? and what about those power thirsty rear shelf 6x9s??"
"Shhh.. its in a gen 2 cavalier babe.. the automotive equivalent of a recording studio, he'll be alright..."
CC: Sell the cap, box, and all the coaxials, build a new correctly sized sealed enclosure with the amp mounted properly, buy the best set of components you can afford and run them off a properly matched 2 channel amp, run all wires as short as possible and near areas where they can be hidden behind carpet, upgrade your charging system power and grounds if you haven't already.
40? I dont turn mine past 35, especially with the brown note. I'm also in for the spaceship.
lol dude im in a military parking lot with the military police branch like 2 minutes walking distance away... fyi
and the box jbl made would have correct cfm for the subs.
Kevin Keeping wrote:c.ft*
questionable at best. cu ft is only one of about a dozen things to consider when building a properly sized box.
car audio noob since 1984.
i know but i cant see them being to far off if they are going to mass produce the product
