Seems too be idling a tad high and way rich for idle.



FU Tuning

idle was purposely set at 1050. and it wasn't idling rich like that last night. it might be the tune prior that he put back on it before leaving last night. the tune we were driving on was spot on just like before the motor went. but he turned it back so it was drivable without ever going lean at all.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Y3llowCav wrote:You need the vacuum line on the fpr, it reduces pressure for idle. Being too rich can cause misfires. That may be why it happens at idle?

Not to mention our fpr is boost referenced. So as you boost your fuel pressure raises.

Philly D wrote:

Y3llowCav wrote:You need the vacuum line on the fpr, it reduces pressure for idle. Being too rich can cause misfires. That may be why it happens at idle?

Not to mention our fpr is boost referenced. So as you boost your fuel pressure raises.

Yea, you definitely need to get that FPR hooked up. From the manifold, you should be supplying a boost reference to the FPR, MAP, and gauge (and of course your meth switch if hooked up right now).

And like said, running rich can cause issues as well, and could contribute to your code. I'd bet too as you get into boost and higher load, you'd see some KR from running to rich...ecos love to detect "fuel knock" when too rich.

well the FPR has been hooked up the whole time just like on the old engine. I was just asking about it because its a different engine now and things have varied with tuning, what the ecu reads, etc.
Ive adjusted the trigger wheel forward and back a few 16ths just to see if it was the timing. I also just finished trimming my ckp sensor bracket to allow it to sit slightly closer to the crank pulley and even more centered over the trigger wheel. Its as dead on from the old engine and as close as I can get it to the pulley without actually touching. But I wasn't able to test it since it was late. ill wipe the code and try tomorrow.

I don't think its a rich issue because its immediate. It never did it before and even on the leaner tunes when it idled normal it did it. plugs seem fine. O2 sensors were reading normal according to the HPTuners read out. Same injectors as before so they shouldn't be any problem and again, the car runs absolutely perfect as far as the tune shows. Its just a damn phantom code I cant figure out. I think its possible the trigger wheel is wobbling around enough to maybe set it off? but again, it runs normal and its not that bad. Ive even moved it around after loosening the crank bolt to make sure its centered.

When I remove the code, it takes about 20seconds or so and it comes back. So its detecting something quickly despite what the readings show. Unfortunately as I said, my tuner wont work on any aggressive tunes with it still showing a code since a P0300 is basically screaming at the tuner saying 'hey, somethings f'd up! fix me!'. He just doesn't want to chance it.

The good news is I got everything back on, hood, bumper, etc. Ive got to head down town tomorrow morning (well..today I guess) for a follow up medical exam and then run some errands. Then eventually Ill get back home and continue with the car. I have something interesting coming up soon and all I can say at this time really is, its running well enough to drive to a storage unit along with all my other stuff. I just want to get it all done before it goes into storage...


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

This was probably asked before, but what plugs are you running? And how about ignition...LSJ coils or did you make the L61 coil pack/ICM fit?

Could the 2.2 ignition module be "wiggling" where it was made to fit? With engine vibrations?

phantom KR and misfire, can also be a result of having all solid mounts and the natural engine vibs throwing a wrench in the works. maybe use a rubber washer like for an oil plug gasket to dampen the Knock sensor some and see what happens.

L61 ignition is all the same. removed the upper part and its snug under the LSJ coil pack cover. No LSJ ignition components used.
Its possible the trigger wheel has a slight wobble to it..but I think its the crank pulley. Its just a slight one though if it is.
The ignition module 'wiggle'..like just not seating properly and moving around slightly? I hadn't really thought of that...I mean it does move if I move it as its not 100% snug but just looking at it I cant detect any obvious wiggle.

I have a hi-flow cat, its probably gutted and just a hollow tube. But...I wonder if the car is detecting contaminants in the exhaust from the broken up piston pieces. I know for a fact theres some in there because it rattles and you can sort of kick the exhaust and hear it move around. I think its pushed back into the muffler now.

I hooked my egr purge solenoid canister thingymabobber up to the intake tube and install my intake all up.

Ive erased the code a few times and as usual it comes back after about 20s or so. I did notice one time it flashed for a while, then went away for a short time (20 or 30s) then it flashed and came on. Its like its detecting something abnormal when its in open loop but im not sure what else to check without yanking out the injectors and inspecting those or doing a compression test or something. but like I said...the odd thing is its not affecting the car at all looking at the HPTuners readout where the idle RPMs and O2 readings are flawless. The last time we were driving it with HPTuners logging, there wasn't an O2 reading at first, it took some time for it to kick in (spark advance I think it is was showing 0). But then once it did kick in a few minutes later the graph looked great.

Im actually at the point where Im losing patience. I don't know what else to do to narrow it down. If HPTuners cant tell me and I cant detect anything that's wrong that sticks out...maybe I should drive it into a lemon lot and say 'runs but needs work, $500 obo' lol


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

oh and Im running the 1 step colder, BKR7E-IX iridium plugs. They are all gapped stock at .033.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Matt, you mentioned supplying boost reference to the MAP...I thought that was done through electronics with the MAP sensor just below the upper radiator hose, on the manifold?
I have the vacuum line coming out of the manifold (from between cylinders 2 and 3 if I recall, center top) to a "T", to the FPR and to the Boost gauge.
The only other vacuum line I have is the purge solenoid canister to the intake.




04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Thats all thats needed for vac.

Its the fpr thats boost referenced.

To figure this out you need to systematically go through things. Start with fuel, then spark etc etc. Read about misfires and understand what can cause them and what its telling you.

My guess is its getting too much fuel, not to mention the pieces in the exhaust.

Well I assume you're running the TMAP,in which case you're good since its in the manifold. Was just thinking aloud since we were on the topic of what needs to see boost.

If your pulley/trigger wheel wobbling was an issue, youd get a CPS code, so you can probably rule that out

I switched it out to my old ECU (Trifecta) and tried running it with that. It idles normal range afr's but does run a tad lean when tapping the gas but then goes back to almost normal range. But, if I kill the code and wait for it to come on...it almost seems that the fan kicking on is causing the misfire code. If the car is cool the code doesn't appear to come on until the fan does..which is odd because those two should not be related right? Im still trying to verify this.

Ive let the car cool down now and am going to go clear it and see if it comes back on. But I also inspected my wiring harness that runs under the battery tray since I know the trans was pressed up against it pretty good, but none of the wires seem to be frayed or broken.

I also sprayed carb cleaner all around the manifold and blower, I do not appear to have any vacuum leaks. I do notice when the misfire code comes on I can hear a slight fade in the RPMs JUST before and the lights will dim for a fraction of a second, like I said, I believe as the fan kicks on.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

do you guys think the 4 or 5 month old gas (it was at 1/2 tank, now at just over 1/4) could cause this?

was reading this article as Im basically reading ANYTHING P0300 related thinking something different might stick out..

http://www.aa1car.com/random-misfire/


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Sometimes the fan comes on when the check engine light comes on.

Other than that I don't know else to tell you man. I hope you figure it out soon.



"In Oldskool we trust"

I think im going to secure the bumper alittle better and run to the gas station and put some new premium in it. Like I said its been sitting since mid May.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

heres something interesting and that is aw NO WHERE online where the two were related... I go out on a hunch and Im noticing the fan comes on every time like I stated before. So I unplug the ECT sensor. I have my scanner where I can see it as the car's idling. No code. The fan eventually kicks on but still no code. The only code I see once the fan kicks on is a P0118 for high circuit engine coolant temp sensor.

The ECT sensor is some how causing the P0300 misfire code because without it plugged in, there is no CEL on the dash. Even the P0118 code doesn't show up on the dash, just on my scanner (probably because it only detected it once or twice and requires 3x or something to make it a non-pending code).

Ive got my original ECT sensor that I replaced last year troubleshooting an over heating issue that ended up being my fan motor. So the sensor is good. Since there is oil all over the harness and outside of the sensor, its possible it leaked down and ruined it from the exhaust cam block off plate that was leaking profusely before.

Im about to pop in the old sensor and see what happens. The only thing I can think of is when the car first idles it goes into open loop automatically, and once closed loop kicks in that's when my fan kicks on and the CEL kicks on with the P0300. So maybe Im just not seeing a P0300 because im forcing the car to stay in closed loop? Maybe Im all wet. We'll see.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

You're forcing it to stay in open loop. The pcm uses that sensor to go into closed loop mode. That's apparently when you're seeing the p0300 code. Thats good information though, maybe you ruined the upstream o2 sensor with the debris that went into the exhaust and it's doing funky stuff when the pcm goes into closed loop and and starts using it. Of course, that's just wild speculation though. I've never heard of an o2 sensor giving bad readings without throwing codes saying its a bad sensor.



"In Oldskool we trust"

so I really haven't fixed anything then..just forcing it to not go into a mode that's not reading whatever could be setting it off.... was hoping the sensor or harness had something to do with it :/

Ill go out and try it now anyways and see what happens..


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

yeah it was silly to think that was my issue..as I walked into the garage I realized it shouldn't really resolve much considering it'll go into closed-loop once I put the ECT sensor back in and the light will come on again. Obviously that's what happened.
I checked the harness under the battery tray and everything appears okay.

Using logical deduction, Im trying to decide what would cause the code to throw only in closed-loop and consistently. The richness isn't it because even the other ECU is leaned out and has normal a/f readings at idle but it still shows a CEL.
My plugs look good. The ignition coil is firing properly. The injectors don't appear to be faulty as there is no mechanical misfire or any obvious issues showing themselves when observing the data.

I dunno. At this point I may just give up and throw it into storage and worry about it next year. Ive got too many things to do right now to worry about it like fixing a small wiring issue with my truck and selling it and getting tons of crap into storage. Im possibly going over seas for work very soon and I don't have the time to play with the car every day with zero results.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

blu04DD wrote:I dunno. At this point I may just give up and throw it into storage and worry about it next year. Ive got too many things to do right now to worry about it like fixing a small wiring issue with my truck and selling it and getting tons of crap into storage. Im possibly going over seas for work very soon and I don't have the time to play with the car every day with zero results.

"In Oldskool we trust"

^^ x2 LOL

Oh... Did I just type that out loud??




Did you say my car looks slow??

lol Its one of those things where you have to take a few days off from doing it. It burns you out.
Last night I tore the wiring harness out that was soaked in oil from the block off plate that was leaking previously. I pulled the wires out of the clips/plugs and cleaned them off, wiped down all the wiring, re taped and loomed everything again. The post-O2 sensor plug still has some on it but I was done after 2 hours of messing around. No change obviously.

I just drove it for a good 20 miles or so. Got a lot of the old gas out, put in some fresh 93 octane, and hit on it a little. She pulls hard..but she's still pretty rich and its definitely not a good tune to drive it on a lot right now. But it never goes lean so that's good at least. Already had a cooperS and some Mustang GT try to run me and it was funny..after they both (separate incidents) heard me, slowed down, then revved past, I waited until they slowed down, down shifted a bit, and screamed the supercharger. Both times they pulled up and had a huge grin on their faces. Car people are cool haha. She is louder on the LSJ and ported...plus open throttle body so it sucks air like a Pamela Anderson Vortec version lol


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

As stated above, check your O2 sensor, it could be bad. Also, make sure your ICM and coil pack are tight, and there is a good ground from the coil assembly to the valve cover. There is a ground strap built into one of the bolt holes of the coil pack that grounds to the ICM and valve cover. Make sure that is clean and tight.




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