The ''Help! Low Blower speeds don't work!'' post - Page 4 - Maintenance and Repair Forum
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This post was a lot of help, thanks!
One thing I wanted to point out ... I don't think that the screws that hold on the resistor are 7/32", but 5.5 mm instead.
7/32 is probably close enough, though.
I hope I don't have to do it again....but I know that's too much to ask. I just bought it used and the resistor in there appears to be aftermarket. Which leads me to ask how the hell they got that back screw back on there when they replaced it.
I didn't have any flexible drivers not universal joints. I jammed the 5.5 mm socket onto the thing and used a screwdriver with a wide blade on it to turn the it (the floor padding held the socket in place). I had to fight it for a while, but it finally came loose.
Just did this as well, took me a total of 1 hour, including taking out the passengers side seat, sweeping, and mopping of the bay that I rented from the Navy bases "Hobby Shop" here in Virginia Beach.
1 Corona. This is the most important tool.
1 13MM socket (if you choose to remove the seats(makes it a hell of alot easier!))
1 5.5MM socket
1 angled socket extension
Its great having the two lower blower speeds work again. Maybe next winter I won't crack my windshield having the heat on full blast.
Thanks for the info, I'll have to do that sometime. About the heatercore... I've done that, twice. I took my dash apart, tons of work, replaced my heater core, re-assembled, and the new one LEAKED, lol. Had to do the work two times in one day, talk about a fun time
I already have my dashboard taken apart because of something else....will that help fixing this part? I am only wondering because I am anxious to put it back together.......
The Factory Shop Manual actually instructs the mechanic to cut away the insulation to access the rear bolt when replacing the BMR. Some of the posters figured that out on their own.....
i have never told this to another man before ...but i think i may be in love with you......i have asked i don't know how many people if they ever heard of this problem. i can't tell ya the different answers i would get...i read your log and not only was i able to make the repair but the forwarning about the complications of removing the parts was right on....when i bought the part i also bought a flexible screw driver set... though my patience and body size didn't make the repair easy.... your advice was priceless....thank you very much....i am sure you saved me hundreds of dollars...and ps.. my air conditioner is working a lot better too...
after 1 year of only having full blast and like 4+ years not having all speeds I finally replaced it! woohoo.
took 1.5 hours used 45 angle for ratchet screwdriver to get the hard to get screws, wasn't too bad....manuevering my body and my arms was hard...and I did take out the seat.
[img src="http://www.wideopenwest.com/~WhatTheSchmidt/JBodySig.jpg" width="288" height="200""]
got a buddy of mine to do it in 15 mins by just cutting out the sound/vibration rubber matting and foam. I started but he was sick of me struggling. This really is a no brainer and is quite simple to do, you just have to be comfortable in awkward positions. Its great to have my 3 lower speeds now working.
just an fyi. here are some after market part numbers...
BLUE STREAK RU44
just replaced mine, took about 15 minutes once I had all the tools that I would need, it took longer to get the tools together(was at my girlfriends dad's house), and tracking down the parts took another 10 minutes.
MIKE MARCHESE wrote:i have never told this to another man before ...but i think i may be in love with you......i have asked i don't know how many people if they ever heard of this problem. i can't tell ya the different answers i would get...i read your log and not only was i able to make the repair but the forwarning about the complications of removing the parts was right on....when i bought the part i also bought a flexible screw driver set... though my patience and body size didn't make the repair easy.... your advice was priceless....thank you very much....i am sure you saved me hundreds of dollars...and ps.. my air conditioner is working a lot better too...
Heh.... love you too.
I logged in today after being AWOL for a while (I don't have a J-body anymore). Glad to see people are still getting use out of this thread.
This sticky was great help for me.
I replaced the resistor in about 20 mins (it took longer to but the new one in) on my 96 Sunfire.
It wasn't that bad, try working on a Ford Probe, I think GM/Pontiac really design their cars better (more friendlier) than Ford will.
Great post, I have had this problem since I've owned my 97 cavalier. I just have one question for anyone that may know. Last winter, I replaced the blower motor as it had stopped working...the replacement did not fix the problem with the low fan speeds...would this be expected (ie: is this resistor separate from the blower motor assembly itself)?
The resistor pack is separate, sits towards the front of the car, obscured by the blower motor itself.
And - kudos to whoever first suggested removing the passenger seat. Did my second blower resistor today in 20 minutes flat!
looks like i will be doing one tonight. my car s fine, its my parents thats gone.
speeds 1-2-3 dont work. 4 works fine, but thats just annoying.
might attempt it this weekend, but im picking up the resistor tonight. maybe i should start stretching now in preperation...
1997 RedR - ZedR
I just replaced mine last winter, and it is shot again. Anyone know if this could be affected by an after-market stereo? I have the original wired in the trunk.
Bought my new resistor tonight for $14 @ Advance Auto Parts, putting it in tomorrow, with all of the tips and info that I've seen on here it should go fine. I'll let you know when I get it done.
Just finished mine, biggest problem I had was getting the electrical connections off.
Other than that, not so bad, couple slices in the firewall padding allows you to get a universal joint with your socket an extension on it.
I would like to add a 7mm socket to the tool list to get the plastic panel between the motor and the foot area off.
Now i have more speeds than high and off,
You really got it for $14 at Advance? Hmm...I'm sick of having high and off...What did they call it at Advance? Or do you have a part number for there?
Got mine done in my 97 tonight. I just used my little ratchet and didn't cut anything. Of course, the rear screw alone took me 30 mins to remove. Its 15 degrees outside and I just did it in the driveway.
I took the seat out after 2o mins of trying to do it with the seat.
Autozone had the part for 25 bucks. Most places I called all had the part for that price.
Now I want to take this one step farther. I noticed a patent number on the one that went back in it. It was the same patent number as the one that came out of it. But, I didn't write it down and I tossed my old one in the dumpster.
The next person that does this, can you please post up the patent number from the one coming out of the car (should be the same as the one going in it)
I want to track the patent down and see who designed this thing, and then I am going to contact them on their failure rate and post up.
I am a designer/engineer and I know I would love to know if one of my designs is failing.
99 cav 2.2L 212,000 miles
97 cav 2.2L 110,000 miles
91 cav 2.2L 236,000 miles RIP
04 Silverado Z71 Ext.Cab 55,000 miles
01 Suzuki SV650 22,000 miles
97 Arctic Cat ZRT 600 6,000 miles
just did mine last night and i still got a problem. it used to only work on jet mode, and now it works on jet mode and semi jet mode. so my question is did i get a bad one or is there something else i should check before i return it? just dont wanna get the same outcome again. and your patened number is....52476725 (not sure why its wrote like that but thats how it is on the resistor)
Is it the same problem if speeds 1, 2, and 3 are out?
yeah most likey. thats what mine was doing and it fixed it
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