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Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:16 PM
<A HREF="">2.3 intake manifold 'How To' Modifacation and Install Guide</A>

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:19 PM
Author: Mark Gojkovic
Date: 10-25-03 09:49 PM

Here is the "recipe" for doing the oil pump conversion, so that hopefully all those who search from hereon will find something solid.

The Recipe comes from Mantapart (thanks Tim) and it seems to work. If you buy the "KIT" from Mantapart they will screw you like they screwed me and will only send you the pump and the drive gear which can be gotten directly from the dealer for WAY less than 250USD they are asking.... anyways

Parts Needed

2.3L Pump
Crank Gear for the pump.

windage tray 22536409
baffle stud 22542521 x2
baffle bolt 22540299 x2

oil pick assem 22539133
brace 24570677
bolt to screen 11516802 x2
nut for brace 22535081 x2
bolt flange head 11516061 x2

oil pump bolts to block 14050422 x2
locator pins for pump 22531530 x2

2.3L Oil Pump Conversion for the 2.4L TC Engines

2.4 TC Crankshaft Modifications (Replacing the oil pump drive gears)

The 2.4L crank drive gear must be carefully heated and pressed or tapped off the crank. Be careful not to damage the crank surfaces or apply a lot of heat to the crank. The new oil pump drive gear should be heated and pressed back onto the crank. Use a brass hammer only if needed so you do not damage the teeth.

2.4L TC Block Modifications (These need to be done by a qualified machinist)

The oil passages to the pump must be re-machined to match the 2.3L pump. This operation must be done with the engine apart since it will require thorough cleaning when finished. Make a template from the right side of the oil pump that includes the bolt holes, oil passage and dowel pin holes. Lay it over the bolt hole on the block and carefully center and indicate the large oil hole center. This hole must be started and then drilled at an angle to intersect the horizontal oil passage that runs below it on the block. If you look from the back side of the block you will see where the passage pipe plug comes out. Draw a line on center with it and the hole center punch you have indicated and that is the angle the hole must be drilled. Drill the hole small and then increase drill sizes up to 9/16. You will break through the casting and then drill into the oil passage casting. Make sure the final drill with the 9/16 bit is done slowly and smoothly, since you have to install the 2x9/16 sleeve afterwards. Cool the sleeve and coat it with sealant. Gently tap it into the hole until it is flush with the block deck. Remove the oil galley plug to clean the passage and make sure the sleeve does not protrude into the oil passage bore.

Mount the pump up to the block and square it with the back of the block and snug it down gently. Take a small center punch and indicate the right side dowel pin hole into the block. Remove the pump and drill the hole to size #A machinist bit about 5/16 deep and then tap the dowel pin into the hole. Block the existing oil holes on the bottom of the 2.4L block: You must block the passages on the #3 and #4 main bosses on the bottom of the block, also. The larger angled hole can be tapped to a 3/8NPT (May require re-drilling to 37/64) Remove the small round sleeve next to the hole first. And the smaller hole on the #3 boss needs to be drilled to a #R Machinist drill and tapped to 1/8NPT. The best is to use flush Allen pipe plugs and coat them with pipe sealant.

Install the pump on studs on #4 main bosses. A 14mm plug or short bolt can be installed in the other hole on the #3 boss. The sheet metal oil pickup holes will need to be slotted or you can carefully braze 2 small washers on it to line up with the studs that are installed on the #4 boss holes.

Fit the windage tray up you will have to bend the left side up some to clear the thicker oil pan flange rail on the block. You will also have to enlarge the two holes at the studs to fit onto them. You will then have to indicate and drill two new holes for the windage tray front on the #2 boss flange area also. We suggest either a 3/8-16 coarse or 10mm x 1.5 thread bolts here, about (20mm) long.

2.3L Pump Modifications (The pump comes supplied with all other mounting hardware, etc)

The bottom boss on the oil pump must be ground down to clear the bottom of the 2.4 oil pan and the oil pickup may have to be moved up some to make proper clearance with the bottom of the pan. Make some trial fits with the pan and pump with the old oil pan gasket on the block to ensure proper fit. Some pans may require grinding and/or welding (aluminum) on the pan also for clearance. Make sure the pickup is not flat against the bottom of the pan.

<From SunCavi>
First, the hole has to be about 1/2 inch and you cannot JUST drill it into the main oil passage and not 9/16's.(measure the hole on the pump and you will see)!!!

You got to drill it down about 1,3/4 inch and then through the edge of #5 main towards it, (WATCH OUT FOR CLOSE CUT YOU COULD DRILL OUT OF THE BLOCK)

The oil pan has to be rewelded definetely and the drain plug has to be relocated to now the lowest point of the pan.

''''''''''''''''''''''DO NOT BEND THE PICK UP TUBE''''''''''''''''''''!!!!!!!!!!! <br>

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:21 PM
Camshaft swap <From SunCavi>

I swapped them and it is not that bad as people think it is.
It took about 6 hours to do with a friend to help you and mainly with the
timing adjusting. Just taking it easy.
I wrote you guys a manual to do it yourself if you want Cause I love JBO and appreciate what it did for US.

*First secure the car up in the air and the motor with a separate jack.
*Disconnect the battery.
*Take your right front wheel off and loosen lower motor mount (15mm) socket..
*Take the upper motor mount off (13mm) and the bracket for the motor mount (18mm).
*Take off water reservoar beacuse it will just be in the way.
*Take the crank pully off(27mm) and the belt with the tool called (HARMONIC BALANCER PULLER) because that is what the crank
pully is.
*Unbolt the timing chain housing plate. (25 little bolts, 10mm).
* ''''''' Before you start taking the timing chain tensioner and sprockets off and all make sure that the motor is at TDC( #1
piston is at top dead center).
You are going to do this by making sure that a little ridge at your crank( after you take the pully off) is at 12 o'clock.
''''''''Also, make sure that your cam sprockets are where they should be (both intake and the exhaust). There is a little
hole in each sprocket and if you put those holes at 6 o'clock, take a bolt that will fit THROUGH them and there is a little
hole behind each sprocket on the timing chain housing that you can't see, the bolt SHOULD GO THROUGH THE SPROCKET IN THE
HOUSING to hold the sprocket from moving.
Now your motor is at TDC and you can start taking the chain and the rest off'''''.
* To take the camshafts off you are going to have to take the sprockets off so if they go out of whack just make sure that
the holes on them are at 6 o'clock and that they are secured with the bolts that go through them in the housing.
*Take the timing chain guides off (pop them off with a flathead screwdriver), the tensioner (2 bolts, 8mm), chain, the
sprockets(15mm). (in this order).
*Loosen the timing chain housing from the water pump(10 or 13mm) (3 bolts), take the (4 bolts) on the bottom off(10mm) and( 8
bolts) off, 4 behind the each sprocket (10mm). just loosen the timing chain housing ) ''''You don't have to take the timing
chain housing off as people say, that would require you taking the lower motor mount bracket off and other $hit'''.
*Take the power steering (13mm) and coil pack cover off(13mm) and the little plate on the other side of the chain on the
exhaust cam off(10mm).
*Loosen the cam covers(13mm) and make sure that '''when you are taking the cam cover off you DON'T pull the CAM TOWER OFF
*You are going to have to pry 2 pieces off with the flathead screwdriver and make sure that you don't hurt your gaskets when
you do that.
*CAMS come out easy, and when you are putting the new ones in make sure you lube them up with LITHIUM GREASE.( so they don't
mess up the lifters the first 5-10 seconds of turning when you start the motor.)
? The cam tower bolts should be tightened in a special sequence from middle on out to sides.
(If you have ever taken the head off the car you know what I am talking about)
*Install is reverse of disassembly.


If you get the chain put on and it seems like it is loose sometimes it is ok, make sure that your cam sprockets are where
they should be and that the bolt that is securing them is acctually in the housing hole.
Also make sure that the ridges on the crank and the housing are at 12 o'clock (1-2 millimeters of play allowed at the crank),
which means if your crank ridge is 1-2 millimeters is off to either side it is ok.
*If the sprocket is spinning when you go to tighten it back just put something in the holes that you use to adjust the timing
to stop them from spinning.
*If you still pull off the cam towers off and not the cam covers after I told you NOT to and your LIFTERS happen to fall out.
*If your lifters fall out and you put them in after you start the car and if you hear a knocking noise IT IS NORMAL because
they are settling in.
*When you got to take the cam covers off, the dipstick and the vacuum line(10mm) needs to be moved to the side so you can do
that just move them to the side.
*If the timing chain tensioner won't go back there is a little hole in the metel part of it, just put a needle in the hole
and move it to the side and squezee it at the same time and it should go in
Now I dont know what else could go wrong but what I have told you, but if anything else goes wrong feel free to e-mail me.

You should:
*Replace intake and exhaust cam cover gasket, ''''''USE LITHIUM GREASE'''''', USE LOCKTITE for the SPROCKET bolts and tigthen
them as much as you can if you don't have the torque wrench.

It is very important that if you don't know a lot about the motor you DON'T TRY TO DO THIS.
Also, if you don't know how to adjust timing and if you think you know, but have never done it, DON'T DO IT.
If you screw up the timing and your valves hit the top of your pistons DON'T BLAME ME I WARNED YOU.
Any other problems just e-mail me and I will try to reply as soon as I can.
Haynes or Chillton manuals really help as in which sequence to tighten the cam cover bolts, and stuff.

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:23 PM
From FAQ

Need a fuel pump upgrade for that super/turbo/nitrous/whatever and dont want to spend the big bucks from RK or mantapart or whoever? No problem, I found any easy, cheaper way to do it when my pump went up a couple weeks ago. After digging through
the books and physically comparing pumps, I installed myself a nice new direct replacement high pressure fuel pump.

To obtain one of these excellent pumps go to your local parts store and ask for a pump for one of the following :

'92-'95 S-10 Blazer with a Vortec 4.3 VIN:W
'89 Firebird 3.8
'97 C-1500 Chevy Pickup with a 4.3 Vortec VIN:W, a 5.0, or a 5.7

All you need is the pump itself, not the assembly, or the sender, just the small pump. After you get this pump you'll notice 2 small slightly curved tabs on the bottom. Cut these off, as flush as possible with the rest of the bottom, dont worry, just a snip. Now the pump is exactly the same as whats in the fuel tank. So, drop the tank, remove the assembly, then follow these directions to get to the pump itself inside the assembly.
1. Unsnap the bottom 'footpad', its usually black in color.
2. Remove the fuel level sender arm and swing it out of the way, its held on by the 'footpad' thingy somehow. It might be
bolted in or sumthin too, depends on the model.
3. Carefully pry the 3 tabs on the big bottom round part. Start with the single one on the one side, then the 2 on the other side. That was easiest for me, might be different for you. You'll have to pull of the strainer to get it off.
4. if you look at the top mount plate(the big plastic round thing-usually white) and you'll see where there are 3 slots that the pump cartridge locks into. Twist the cartridge and slide it down.
5. You'll probably havta kinda squeeze the pump out of the housing, its in there kinda tight, but it'll come out.
6. Unplug pump and plug in new pump.
7. Reassemble in reverse order.
8. Before putting the pump back into the tank, make sure everything is plugged in and have someone turn the key to the on position and make sure the pump runs, so that you know you did everything right.

The specs for the pumps are as follows:

Stock pump - Free Flows 80psi@28gph (gallons per hour)
Operating Flow - 45psi@20gph

New Pump - Free Flows 100psi@47gph
Operating Flow - 51psi@41gph

You'll still need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to take full advantage of the increased flow. And dont run the pressure over 70 psi at the regulator, since this can cause the fuel injectors to shut down(trust me on this). I run mine at 56 psi all day long, works great and I still get decent gas milage when my foot isnt on the floor. <br>

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:25 PM
Accel Brand Regulator without the box, no instructions.
This is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (25-60 psi) that fits:

1996-92 Chevrolet Corvette w/5.7 L (350") eng LT1/LT41991-84 Buick
1993 Chevrolet Camaro w/5.7 L (350") eng LT1

It is an ACCEL P/N: 74565
Item #90-307A

I've had mine up to 80psi...... over 60psi, you loose the 10psi on/off vac. jump......

<A HREF="">Fuel regulator for $55</A>


Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:28 PM
I don't know who this is from

Nology Power Core Install

1.) Remove the IDI cover on the 2.3L/2.4L or the coil packs on the 2.2L.

2.) On the 2.4L remove the coil packs from the IDI cover, and disconnect the coil connector from the ignition module. (please note the ignition module is the flat aluminum box connected to the IDI cover with three bolts.)

2a.) On the 2.2L you must remove the coils from the base plate to access the positive and negative wire leads.

3.) Once you have removed the white coil housing from the IDI cover you will notice two white wire and one brown wire, these are the coil leads.

WHITE 1 (negative channel 1)
WHITE 2 (negative channel 2)
BROWN 1 (12 Volt Lead)

You will need to drill a 1/2 inch hole through the white plastic enclosure to allow the wiring to pass through.

4.) Mount the power cores with the supplied tape to either the top of the battery or to the back of the firewall.

5.) The leads of the power cores need to be sent through the hole drilled in the white coil enclosure.

6.) The red wires from the power cores need to be joined, and then piggy-backed onto the brown coil lead (DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES!!)

7.) The black wires need to be individually connected (piggy-back style) to the white leads in the coil enclosure (DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES!!)

7a.) 2.2L owners must individually connect each power core to each coil. ONce the coil pack has been removed then the power coil must be directly wired into the base of each coil. This can be accomplished by fanning out the wire and soldering it the
post that connects to the coil. Take time to identify which terminal is positive and which is negative.

8.) Reattach the white enclosure to the IDI cover, and plug in the coil leads to the ignition module.

8a.) On the 2.2L install the coils back on to their bases, and reattach the spark plug wires. <br>

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:36 PM
Just A Few Part Numbers



Cyl head 24577385
Fuel Injectors 17122264
Exhaust Manifold 24576614
AC Eliminator Pulley 24574519
Exhaust manifold gasket w/o egr 22178213
Exhaust manifold gasket w/ egr 24576382
Throttle cable 22618841
Lower radiator hose 22659987
Coolant Resivoir 22605500
Auto trans Cable 22621773
Engine Mounts Lower Auto 22174912
Engine Mounts Lower Manual 22145447
Engine Mounts Upper mount 22174933
Fuel pump sender assembly 22674713
Ac accumulator 2724908
AC compressor 1135437
Exhaust sensor on manifold 25162600
Exhaust sensor after cat 12569553
Water pump 12482714
Supercharger Kit 12498287

Bracket, S/C Support, Lower 88960232
Bracket, S/C Support, Top 88960233
Duct, Intake Air 88960234
Bracket, S/C Snout Support, Lower 88960235
Bracket, S/C Snout Support, Upper 88960236
Bracket, Cruise Control Relocation 88960480
Plug, Inlet Air Temparature Sensor 88960479
Adapter, Intake Air Duct 88960237
Hose Clamp, Hose for Reducer 10039976
Hose, PCV, Baffle to Intake Air Duct 09436383
Hose, EVAP to Throttle Body 09438315
Hose, MAP Sensor to S/C 12387951
Belt, Accessory Drive 88960481
Tube, Brake Booster to Throttle Body 58960482
Flat Washer, PCV Bent Tube 94127883
Bolt, Nose Support, Upper to Lower 24503664
Bolt, Idler to Lower Nose Support 11515755
Bolt, Top/Bottom Bracket to Manifold 11515756
Bolt, Manifold Flange 11508476
Bolt, Bottom Bracket to Block 11515769
Spiral Lock Washer, Lower Bracket to Block 11500046
External Tooth Lock Washer, Upper to Lower Support 11501869
Spiral Lock Washer, Top/Bottom Brackets to Manifold & PCV Bent Tube 09439511
Spiral Lock Washer, MAP Sensor & Cruise 09439510
Nut, Cruise Control Bracket 03530297
Sensor, MAP 09350899
Clamp, 5/8" hose 10293740
Decal, Accessory belt routing 88960577
Injectors, Fuel 17113399
Spark Plugs 05613717
Decal, Fuel Use 88960578
Nylon flex loom, Hose PCV Elbow to Intake Air Duct 88960622
Barbed Hose Coupler, EVAP Hose to Rubber Elbow 88960623
Wire loom, Aire Temp Sensor Wire 12051375
Baffle Assembly, PCV 88960484
Seal, PCV Baffle 88894217
Actuator, Supercharger By-pass 88960487
O-ring, Throttle Body 88960488
O-ring, Intake Manifold Runner 88960489
O-ring, PCV Port 88960490
Grommet, Air Temperature Sensor 15705446
Clamp, Air Temperature Sensor 88960491
Bolt, Air Temperature Sensor and MAP Sensor Mounting 52368558
Bracket Assembly, Idler 12498289
Pulley, Idler 88960493
Bearing, Idler Pulley 88960581

Auto Supercharger 12498660
Intake Manifold 24575462
02-02 Engine Serpetine Belt 24576787
Exhaust Manifold 02 Sensor 25162600
After the Cat 02 Sensor 12569553


95-99 Throttle cable 22659189
93-97 Head Gasket Kit (From Fel-Pro) HS 9469 PT-2
1- 10-1241 Water Outlet Gasket
1- 12-3105 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Gasket
1- 12-3505 Thermostat Housing Gasket(95-97)
1- 9469PT 4 Cyclinder Head Gasket
1- 35393 Thermostat Housing (93-94)
1- 35614 Thermostat Seal Gasket
1- 60982 Exhaust Flange Gasket
1- 70484 "O" Ring
1- 70954 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Gasket
8- 72852 Intake and Exhaust Valve Stem Seal
4- 93196 Fuel Injector Lower "O" Ring
1- 93453 Oil Filter Adaptor Bolt Seal
1- 93776 Valve Cover Gasket
1- 93812 Exhaust Manifold Gasket
4- 94937 Fuel Injector Upper "O" Ring
1- 95393 Lower Intake Manifold Gasket
1- 95397 Upper Intake Manifold Gasket
5- 95762 Fuel Rail "O" Ring

95-97 Pushrods (From Sealed Power) RP-3328
95-97 Valve Lifters (From Sealed Power) HT-2270
94-97 Clevite main bearings MS-1704P
(I think all 2.2's except eco) Clevite rod bearing CB-745H
(I think all 2.2's except eco) Clevite full round cam bearing SH-1365S
(All Years) Melling high flow pump M-98HV @jegs
Comp Cams roller rockers 1414-1
Studs for Comp Cams rockers 476530
AC Delco high flow intake fuel pump EP381
SI polished intake valves SEV-2892
SI polished exhaust valves SEV-2885
SI bronze intake valve guide 9456
SI bronze exhaust valve guide 9457
95-99 Comp Cams Hardened Chromoly Steel push rod 8900-1
Exhaust Manifold 02 Sensor 25162600
PCV to intake manifold hose 10198804


Intake Cam, VIN D 24574239
Coolant resivoir 22605500
exhaust cam, VIN D 24570698
Intake manifold gasket 22531631
TB/Manifold gasket 22542375
coolant reservior: 22605500
Exhaust Manifold 02 Sensor 25162600


HO Crank pully 24573264
HO head 086 22539086
HO Intake manifold 24572301

2.2 Ecotec

Intake Camshaft Blank 88958612
Exhaust Camshaft Blank 88958613
Head Gasket and O-ring Kit 89858614
Neutral Balance Shaft set 88958615
Billet Connecting rod set 88958618*
*4 use with race piston & billet crankshaft
*Billet crankshaft 88958620
*Race Piston 88958635
Hi. PERF. CNC Ported Head 88958619
Fab. Aluminum Intake Manifold 88958629
Race Engine block 88958630
Billet Crankshaft pulley 88958631
Exhaust header flange set 88958632
Hi. PERF. Piston, Ring, and Pin set 88958634
Turbo wastegate adapter 88958638
Full race piston set 88958639
Oil Filter 24460713
Oil Filter Cap (comes with new filter) 24460712
Connector for making Harness to connect DIS-2 to an EcoTec ICM (must be slightly modified) 12101880


GM Strut Bar cruise control N/A 22604347*
GM Strut Bar cruise Control Equipped 22642387*
*Note some modification is required for 2002 models
GM Strut Tower Brace (for cc on firewall) 22604347
95-99 Strut mounts Rear 22178213
95-99 Strut mounts Front 22173158
95-99 Hub assembly Front w/bearing 7470014
95-99 Hub assembly Rear w/bearng & wheel sensor 7470597
Bump Stop Rear 22129486
Bump Stop Front 22177920
2000+ Front Strut Mounts Nut 22196749
2000+ Front Strut Mounts Mount 22200754
2000+ Front Strut Mounts Seat & bearing 22182103
2000+ Z24 wheel 9593204
2000+ wheel nuts & cap 12497054
2002+ LS aluminum wheel 9594582
2002+ LS chrome wheel 9595065
ABS Computer 9384790
Rear Durastop Brake Shoes 18029730
Brake Pressure MDL 1804314
Carbon Fiber Wheel Caps w Red Bow Tie-Whell Hub Cap Trim 9594585
Front Stabilizer Shaft (Sway Bar) link insulator (O side rubbers) 6270752
Front Stabilizer Shaft (Sway Bar) bolt 11516328
Front Strut Mount and Bearing 22173158
Front Stabilizer Shaft (22mm Sway Bar) FE2 Susp (Perf & Hard Susp) 22566681
Front Stabilizer Shaft (18mm Sway Bar) FE1 Susp (Soft Ride Susp) 22566683
Front Stabilizer Shaft (Sway Bar) Clamp (Center D clamps) 22587935
Front Stabilizer Shaft (Sway Bar) white insulator for FE1 susp 22594028
Stock Strut Tower Brace w/o Speed Control 22604347
Front Stabilizer Shaft (Sway Bar) red insulator (middle rubber D-bushings) for FE2 susp 22619843
Stock Strut Tower Brace w Speed Control 22642387
Front Stabilizer Link for FE1 Suspension (Soft Ride Susp) 22657717
Front Stabilizer EndLink w/rubber bushings for FE2 Suspension (Perf & Hard Susp) 22657718
Front Sway Bar Middle D-Clamps for D-Bushings 22660396
M10 $1.00 M10 10x1.5 In Bolt
Left Rear Shock Spring Seat Bracket 22619872
Right Rear Shock Spring Seat Bracket 22597314
Front Suspension Bumstops 22177920
Rear Suspension Bumstops 22129486
Front OEM Shock Absorber (Oil Non Gas Presurized) 22064776
Rear OEM Shock Absorber (Oil Non Gas Presurized) 22064573
Rear Left E-Brake Cable 22651234
Main E-Brake Cable 22603399


Toyota Trunk Liner 22657896
Toyota Trunk liner retainers 21030249
Toyota Rear Seat Cushion 22646585(Graphite),22646586 (?), 22646587 (?), 22646588 (?), 22646589 (?)
Toyota Rear Seat Armrest Assembly 22646591 (Graphite), 22646593 (?), 22646594 (?), 22646596 (?)
Toyota Rear Seat Armrest Pull Out 12530009 (Graphite), 12530011 (?), 12530012 (?), 12530013 (?), 12530014 (?), 12530015 (?)
96-00 Toyota Leather Steering Wheel 16757202
Year? Toyota Driver Side Airbag 22622577
95?-96-97 only Toyota airbag 16757204
98-99 Toyota airbag 16825788
2000-2001? Toyota airbag 16866011
Rear view morror w/o light 10221757
Corvette Leather shift knob 12559930
00+ dash panel (around radio & HVAC) 22698064
95-99 Seatbelt bracket cover 22584124
95-99 left coupe power door panel 22601349
95-99 right coupe power door panel 22601348
95+ vent visors (2 door) 12371388
95+ vent visors (4 door) 12371389
95+ GM side skirts (2 door)12495297
95+ floor mats front (2 graphite) 12370606
95+ rear floor mats (2 graphite) 12344776
95+ floor mats front (2 neutral) 12370609
95+ floor mats rear (2 neutral) 12344782
00+ GM bra (w/hood piece) 12496934
95+ hood bra 12496935
95+ hood bug visor 10253606
00 air bag (driver) 16824968
00 air bag (pasanger) 22663648
Door Post Covers-Applique 22633723
Door Post COvers-Applique 22633724
Right Apllique Between Right Triangle Glass and Rear Glass 22648286
2000+ Climate Knob .80
2000-02 Centre Dash Piece(around instrument cluster and radio, hvac) 22698064
Stock floor mats graphite carpet front (2) 12370606 Rear (2) 12344776 Neutral carpet front (2) 12370609
Rear (2) 12344782


99 Toyota tails Right Outer 22626394
99 Toyota tails Right Inner 59977632
99 Toyota tails Left inner 55977631
99 Toyota tails Left Outer 22626395
2000+ Toyota tails Right outer 22628442
2000+ Toyota tails Right Inner 22602878
2000+ Toyota tails Left Outer 22628443
2000+ Toyota tails Left Inner 22602879
Toyota Fenders Left 22610683
Toyota Fenders Right 22610682
Toyota Fenders Marker 16516916
Toyota Power Folding mirrors switch 22637275
Toyota Power Folding mirrors Wiring harness 22626407
Toyota Power Folding Mirrors Coupe Right 22635716
Toyota Power Folding Mirrors Coupe Left 22635717
Toyota Power Folding Mirrors Sedan Right 22635714
Toyota Power Folding Mirrors Sedan Left 22635715
Toyota Manual Folding mirrors sedan Right 22635712
Toyota Manual Folding mirrors sedan Left 22635713
95+ "T O Y O T A" emblem 22649424
95+ Toyota "2.4G" emblem 22649426
95+ Toyota "2.4Z" emblem 22649427
95+ Toyota "2.4" emblem 22649425
95+ Toyota Oval "T" chrome emblem 22649423

95-99 Z24 Effects Front Bumper 22597556
95-99 Z24 Effects Rear Bumper 22597558
95-99 Z24 Effects Right skirt 12463297
95-99 Z24 Effects Left skirt 12463298
95-99 Z24 Front License Plate Filler 22639556
2001+ effects extension 12335536
2001+ effects extension h12335571
2001+ effects extension h12335572
95-99 Headlights Left Bracket 16518385
95-99 Headlights Right Bracket 16518386
95-02 Trunk lid 22678456
95-99 Z24 license plate filler 22639556
00-02 Corner lense bracket Left 22626691
00-02 Corner lense bracket Right 22626692
03 Trunk lid 22682933
00+ Z24 Trunk w/Spoiler 12368192
95-99 Spoiler Light harness 12148769
00+ sunfire SE rear bumper 12335352
00+ Rksport Sunfire SE rear valence 06015002
00+ Rksport Sunfire Left side skirt 06015003
00+ Rksport Sunfire Right side skirt 06015004
03 Rear bumper (Paint to Match) 12335580
00+ spoiler not painted 12335354
00+ spoiler silver 12496014
00+ spoiler White (paint code 16U) 12496009
00+ spoiler Dahlia blue (22U) 12496010
00+ spoiler black (41U) 12496011
00+ spoiler bright red (81U) 12496012
00+ spoiler cayenne red (96U) 12496013
00+ spoiler green met (35U) 12496015
00+ spoiler gold (60U) 12496016
00+ spoiler fern green (36U) 12496017
00+ spoiler led light 22611505
95-99 Z24 and 2000+ non-Z spoiler 12370110
2002 Front effects extension (Paint To Match) 12335536
2002 Left effects extension (Paint To Match) H12335571
2002 Right effects extension (Paint To Match) H12335572
Plastic Seatbelt Bracket Cover (graphite) 22584124
95-99 2.4 left inside door panel 22601349
95-99 2.4 right inside door panel 22601348
Vent Visors 2 door 12371388, 4 door 12371389
GM Side Skirts (2 door only) 12495297
GM front end cover (with hood piece) 2000-02 only 12496934 Hood only 12496935
Lexan hood protector: 10253606


Intake Air Temperature Sensor 12160244
AC Delco SJ 15w40 Engine Oil 12378405
Eninge Oil Pan Drain Plug (Old Version) 24100042
GM Power Crankcase Pully Balancer and Camshaft Balancer 24573264
Stock Air Feilter Box 24577590 .00
AC Delco Stock Paper Air Filter #A-1172C 24577608
AC Delco Duraguard Oil Filter #PF44 25010633
AC Delco Gasoline Filter #GF578 25121293
Power Steering Reservoir 26071430
AC Delco Platinum Spark Plugs #AC 41-963 @0.0050in/1.27mm
Engine Oil Pan Drain Plug (New Version) 88891787
Fog Lights Bulb #885 50w Straight 9442878
Carbon Fiber Wheel Caps w Red Bow Tie-Whell Hub Cap Trim 9594585
Manual Transmission Synchromesh Fluid 12345349
Manual Transmission Saturn Fluid 21018899
Rear Speaker Connector 12101825 12052832
Block heater for LN2 engine 12343314
(Only on bi-fueled Cavaliers)Natural Gas Filler Door 52369348?
Toyota Power Steering Cap 26051796

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:46 PM
GM 2.8L/ 3.1L 60 degree V6 ENGINES

COMPETITION CAMS offers MAGNUM Roller Tip Rocker Arms. Available in a 1.52:1 ratio. Part #1413-12 and 1.6:1ratio. #1414-12 These rocker arms are a stifferconstruction rocker arm that have a roller tip that Competition Cams claims a 10-30 hp increase over stock, -due to the increased stiffness and the reduced friction of the roller tip. CRANE CAMS offers a full roller rocker. It is their GOLD RACE Extruded Narrow Body roller rocker. (For 60* v6 and center bolt v8 engines) it is an all aluminum needle bearing roller fulcrum and roller tip rocker. $$$ Very pricey. It is available in a
1.5:1 #25750-12 and 1.6:1 ratio 25759-12 but require cranes replacement nuts #99795 and studs 99148-12. All part numbers with are for the V6 engine, the 12 behind each number indicates quantity of 12. For the four cylinders purchasing two sets (24 rocker arms total) will work out to enough to do 3 engines, (8 rockers an engine) so if three people went together and bought two sets of rockers you will save some money.

With 1.5:1 or 1.52:1 ratio roller rockers the benefits are around 5 hp. due to reduced friction. With the 1.6:1 ratio rockers your looking at more hp gain because the higher ratio acts like a bigger camshaft by opening the valve more. Thus allowing more air into the engine. Expect around 10-20hp. Remember be conservative these are estimated horsepower gains depending on application power increases vary. Just because you swapped in these rockers does not guarantee that you gained 20hp.

The cam lift of the 95-97 cams is .288" the amount of valve lift for the different ratios are:
1.5 (stock)= .432" valve lift
1.52 =.4377" valve lift
1.6 =.4608" valve lift

Cam specs for a 92 3.1L
Lobe lift intake .2626"
Lobe lift exhaust .2732"
1.5 (stock)= .3939"int. .4098"exh.
1.52 = .3991"int. .4152"exh.
1.6 = .420"int. .437"exh.

To find valve lift from any cam when using different rocker arms take the known valve lift example .425" and divide by the rocker ratio 1.5. .425/1.5 = .283333333333 this is the cams lobe lift, then take the new ratio example 1.6 and multiply it by the lobe lift. .283"x 1.6 = .453" valve lift. Valve lift the amount the valve opens due to the combined lift of the cam and mechanical advantage of the rocker arm. Camshaft lobe lift- the amount the camshaft lobe is raised up from its base circle.

If going with the Comp Cams rockers, The first thing you need to do for this swap is get a set of M10 rocker arm studs from a 2.8 v6, gm part number for these studs is #476530. These studs were sourced from a 89 2.8L Chevy celebrity. At my dealership
(in Canada) they retail for $5.55 Canadian each. V6's will need 12, four cylinders will need 8 of them. The threads on these studs are M10x1.5x9.9/M10x1x18 these are a fully adjustable stud that were used on the v6s*. These studs will compensate for
the different ratio rocker. The stock rocker studs are non-adjustable and are an M10x1.5x9.9/M8x1x.32 the M8 non-adjustable stud will NOT work with these rockers. The Comp Cams rockers come with new 10mm nuts. If using the Crane full roller rockers then you need to get cranes studs 99148-12 -which have an M10x1.5x9.9/ 3/8x24 stud. And cranes nuts #99795. These studs use have the metric threaded end for the cyl head and a standard type 3/8 stud/thread for the rocker arm. Dont forget you can always check the wreckers for the gm studs used for the Comp rockers. I purchased six studs for six bucks from a local wrecker. (For some reason one of my cyl heads had the M8 studs and the other had the M10 ones.) If installing the higher lift 1.6:1 rockers or installing an aftermarket performance cam along with any of the roller rockers you will also need a set of aftermarket high performance valve springs to accommodate the higher lift. Comp Cams #s 980-12 (springs) 742-12 (spring retainers) and 601-12 (valve locks) Crane Cams #s 99848-12 (springs) 99915-12 (spring retainers) and 99041-12 (valve locks) These part numbers are for V6 engines only. However with a little searching around, some after market replacements could be found for the L4. The stock springs for the L4 engine WILL work with the 1.6:1 rockers. Nate Stafiej talked to a few companies and found that these springs will be fine for that amount of lift on the 2.2L. He has successfully done the swap and put on a lot of kilometers with no problems. New pushrods are a must, as the old pushrods and rockers have worn specifically to each other and using old pushrods with new rockers can cause premature wear along with voiding the warranty of the rocker arms from the company. Factory (stock type) pushrods will work fine.

*NOTE V6 owners. -Some of the earlier v6s came with the adjustable M10 studs, some didnt it depends on year. Check if your engine already is equipped with them before you go and buy a set to find out you didnt need them.

If installing a set of 1.6 ratio rockers modifications to the pushrod guide plates will have to be made. As the pushrod angle is now altered and will sit closer to the guide plate. An angle grinder with a carbide bit is the easiest and quickest way to do this. -See Nates drawing of the pushrod guide plate.

You must find top dead center (TDC) for piston number one. You can do this by removing the spark plug and by hand turning the engine over at the crank pulley until number one is at the top of the cylinder, use a screwdriver in the plug hole to feel
the piston. While cranking the engine over pay attention to the rocker arms, if when the piston is moving up towards TDC and both rocker arms are not moving then the engine is on number one firing position if one of the rockers moves while coming up to TDC then the engine is on number four firing position, and needs to be cranked over one complete revolution.

With number one piston on the firing position at TDC install the rockers on the studs,a djust the valves for number one cylinder only. Tighten in the adjusting nuts until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrod while turning in the adjusting nut. Once the play has been removed, turn in the adjusting nut one-half turn to center the lifter plunger. Repeat procedure for each cylinder one at a time while on the firing stroke only.

With number one piston on the firing position at TDC install the rockers on the studs, the valves that can be adjusted are:
EXHAUST: 1, 2, 3
INTAKE: 1, 5, 6

Tighten in the adjusting nuts until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrod while turning in the adjusting nut. Once the play has been removed, turn in the adjusting nut one-half turn to center the lifter plunger. Now
crank the engine over one complete revolution to number four firing position. These valves can now be adjusted:

EXHAUST: 4, 5, 6
INTAKE: 2, 3, 4

I have done this swap with Comp Cams Magnum roller rockers on my 92 3.1L. I used the 1.52:1 ratio rockers. Nate has installed the 1.6 Comp Cams Magnum roller rockers on his 95 2.2L. Special thanks to Nate with helping research and using his engine as
the test mule for this swap. See his full install instructions below for the 4 cyls. 98 and later 2.2L engines use a factory 1.6 ratio pedestal mounted needle bearing roller fulcrum rocker arm. These rocker arms cannot be used on earlier 2.2s.
I am not responsible for any damage to engine parts due to improper installation procedures or any damage that could result from this modification to your engine or car.
Thank you and enjoy!


Colin V6HO Bulloch
Nate Cavyboy Stafiej

1.6 Rocker Arm Install For 2.2L by Nate Stafiej
Tools And Parts Need:
-18mm, 15mm, 13mm deep sockets
-15mm wrench
-A long Phillips or star screwdriver
-8mm and whatnot for to take off valve cover
-New Valve Cover Gasket
-8 studs GM part# 00476530
-8 New GM Stock 2.2l pushrods GM #10198813
-8 Comp. Cam 1.6 roller tipped Rocker arms w/8 Fulcrum washers & 8 nuts
-Comp. Cam red lubricant
-Small grinder (4 disc is all I used) of some sort or good drill bits to elongate pushrod guide plate.
-1 Liter of Motor Oil
-Some medium strength Thread Locker
-Disconnect Battery
-Remove Air intake/alternator /plug wire (tape #s to them so you know where they go back too!)/part of throttle body cover
(plastic piece) and finally valve cover.
-Now remove all four spark plugs.
-Now starting with cylinder #1, use 15mm wrench, turn the crank pulley (by the 3 little bolts, which are 15mm) till you get Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. U will know when u get there, b/c just hold your finger over the spark plug hole and you will get Pssssssst of air blowing by.
-Use a screwdriver by sticking it in the spark plug hole to feel the top of the piston. You will see how when you rotate the pulley, it will get to the top of the stroke and start to come back down again. You want it at the exact TDC. It will take a few times going back and forth to see that youve got it TDC. Its not that hard, dont worry.
-Now, that youve got the valve in the right position, take off the Stover nut (rocker arm nut) and stud for b both the intake & exhaust. But make sure you do one at a time and place them in Ziploc baggies so you know exactly where they go if you ever install them again! Same with pushrods!! Know exactly where each one goes, and which end is up. Very Important!
-When taking off stud, it will be a little tuff, but its ok.
-Once both studs are off pull the pushrod guide plate off.
-Use grinder or drill to elongate it about 1/8 (I did and it was more than enough). See diagram attached.

-Before installing new stud, clean out the stud holes with a paper towel as best you can.
-Now reinstall, plate with new studs. Using a little bit of thread locker on the stud.
-Torque down to 37lb/ft or just free hand it.. with about 70/lb on the 6 ratchet, I did
-Lube up both ends of the new pushrod with motor oil and stick in hole.
-Now lube up the fulcrum washer (the edges and bottom) with red lube and put it on the inside of the rocker arm with the nut on top.
-Tighten nut down until the play on the pushrod starts to get hard to turn with your fingers. Now turn it an additional turn and Viola! Your done one of 8!
-Add some motor oil to the top of the rocker arm where the little hole is.
-Once your done all 8, apply liberally the comp cam lube to the roller tipped part. And also, add some more oil to the top of the rocker arm.
I am just helping you out with these instructions and this modification. I here by am not responsible for any wrong installation or damage that occurs to your car from this modification.
(Sorry, but Im sure you understand). <br>

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:51 PM
B&M Auto Shifter Install

Author: Scrufdog
Date: 04-16-02 05:17 AM

the shifter i have is a real ratchet shifter. any shifter that says it will work for a GM transmission, whether its RWD or not, will work properly for shifter, its just mounting it and adjusting the cable holder, that you'll have to do. And, no, I dont know what shifters will fit directly into the stock center console. But here's the basic way to make one of these work. As far as mounting it goes, you'll more than likely have to drill through the floor and have someone hold each bolt with a wrench while you climb under the car and tighten each nut. Dont use self tapping screws, they wont take as amuch abuse as
simply using nuts and bolts. When i did mine i drilled straight down, through the floor, and through the exhaust shielding. When i nut and bolted everything the nuts on the bottom tightened up against the shielding, no problem. There was a second
cable attached to the stock shifter that runs into the dashboard. This is an ignition lockout cable. ITs there so that you cant turn the key unless the stock shifter is in park or nuetral. I took this cable and just cut it off as close to the steering column as i could, dont do that until everything is done and working. Your nuetral safety switch, which is mounted on the transmission, will make sure the starter motor doesnt start if its not in park or nuetral. To take the stock cable out, you may have to do one of 2 things. If your lucky it will just push through from the inside, push it towards under the hood. If not you'll need to climb under the car and there may be a bracket where it comes through the firewall that needs to be unbolted. You may want to disconnect it from the transmission lever to help a little in flexibility. Also, around this point you'll need to unbolt the main cable bracket which is bolted to the transmission casing. Just follow the cable from the shift level on the tranny itself about 1-2 feet and you hit it. This bracket is the one you'll need to adjust. Ok, so assuming you have the stock cable completely out of the car(uncut, save the cable in case you need it in the future). There's
no way to see exactly which way you'll need to make the adjustment at first so follow along. I'll be assuming you left the car in park before you started all this. You need to take a look at the transmission end of the aftermarket cable. It will be threaded and have a small little piece that threads onto it that has a another hole in it for a cotter pin. Take the liitle piece and take a look at the trans shift lever on the transmission. Most like it wont slip it and cotter pin up because the stock setup adjusts on the lever, not on the bracket like the aftermarket one does. So you'll have an elongated slot on that
lever, well you need to get around that. The way I did is was get a small nut and bolt the fits into the slot and tighten down in the middle so that it blocks the little aftermarket piece thing from sliding around. You'll need to adjust that nut and bolt after everything together to keep the little piece thing from moving at all. Now for the stock cable bracket, this is what you need to do. I went to home depot and bought a pack of 1 1/4 inch L brackets. Drill whatever holes are needed and bolt them together as shown in the picture at the bottom. Now drill a hole in the L-brackets assembly that will match up too the hole in the stock bracket when you bolt it onto it, see other picture. When you drill this hole make it the size of the threaded part on the aftermarket cable. Ok, so right now you should have the shifter mounted, cable routed through the firewall, a nut/bolt in the shift lever, and some brackets. Drill holes in the stock bracket for the new L-bracket setup to bolt to. MAke sure all holes line up so that the hole in the stock bracket and the hole in the L-setup line up. Bolt them up, so that the L-setup is on the shifter side of the bracket, in other words, farthest away from the shift lever. Now, take the modded bracket and bolt it back into car. Put one nut and one washer on the threaded part of the aftermarket cable. Route the cable through the holes in the modded bracket and to the shift lever. Make sure the new shifter is in park. Now put the other washer, then nut on the cable. You may have to pull the cable through a little to drop them in between the stock hole and the new hole, but do it so that the 2 nuts will tighten against the L-setup and not the stock hole, whick should be too big anyway for the nuts. Ok, so once the nuts are on, keep them loose so that you can move them up and down to make
adjustments. Thread the little shift lever piece thing on the end of the cable and by threading that up and down the threaded end of the cable, and by using the 2 nuts on the cable itself, make the little piece thing line up with the pass half hole in the shift lever(meaning the half closer to the passenger side where you added that nut and bolt onto the shift lever). If for some reason you cant get everything to line up properly, you will either need to bend the L-setup or maybe even have to unbolt it and rebolt it onto the other side of the stock bracket. Now, once everything is lined up pretty good,
tighten the 2 nuts on the cable. Now, fine tune the alignment at the lever so that the little piece thing is going to line up with the pass side of the hole, see picture. Once thats done loosen the bolt in the slot so its not quite snug against that little piece thing, while the piece is in the slot. The cable end may hit end of that bolt if its too long, so either make sure the bolt is short enough or loosen it and flip it around so that the nut is on top. Now run the cotter pin through the little piece thing and bend it however you need to so that it stays in the slot hole. I bent mine in a D-shape with the flat side of the D on the bolt/nut side and its been in there for 2 years. All the cotter pin does is hold the piece in there, its doesnt actually feel any force from shifting. Ok, so now everything is in a tight. Now, dont get your hopes up just yet, now the fun stuff starts-fine tuning the nuts and the L-setup. Start the car while in park and put it in reverse. If it properly shifts(and moves), so far so good, now slowly go down the line in all the gears and check for proper shifting. If anything is out, you'll have to make adjustments on those nuts a little at a time, i cant ell you which way to go, you just have to play around with it. Once you go down the gears, go back up one at a time a recheck, sometimes it will work one way, but not another(due to flexing and movement of parts). Keep adjusting everything till it lines up. Thats it.

Now, keep all your stock stuff. Because if for some reason you cant get stuff to work right, you'll obviously need to put it back in, so dont cut any cables or break anything. And, if you plan on ever selling the car, you'll need to put that stuff back in so that you can actually sell it. As far as that second cable goes, you can either cut it or tuck it up somewhere out of the way. That is, if you have that cable, 3rd gens might not. Also, the aftermarket cable will be too long, so just run it however you need to so that its at least 2 inches away from the exhaust and any moving parts like the axle. You use doubled up zip ties to hold it. And make sure you zip tie it before you make the adjustments, cause too much movement from the cable will cause the adjustments to be wrong. And make sure ya dont put a sever bend in it. The manual with the shifter will tell you how much of a bend it can handle.

The best way to understand these directions is to print this out and take it outside to your car and look over everything to get an idea where stuff is before you consider doing this. It took me all damn day to do it, so plan on the same. It might not take you as long, since you have directions on how to do it.

If you plan on doing this email me ahead of time so that i can tell you how to get ahold of me if you need help while doing it.


Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:53 PM

*this post has been deleted*


Post Edited (06-24-04 12:21 PM)

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 7:59 PM
Apex'i AFC Install

AFC Install....2.3L/2.4L by Rocky (Cookie Monster)
This is one high tech gadget. Basically it allows you to alter the stock fuel curve at eight user defined RPM's, then it fills in the space in between your points. The Super AFC accomplishes this feat by filtering the voltage from the stock MAP sensor, then sending the "modified" signal to the PCM. Using this method you can modify the fuel curve by +/- 50%. This basically means that you can add fuel until your injectors reach 100% duty cycle, or subtract fuel until you blow your motor. This is the reason that A'PEXi stresses that this system should only be installed and tuned by an authorized dealer. This is no "all show" deal. This is a real tuning tool.

1.) Obtain the proper manual to locate your ECU pin out wiring diagram and wire colors for your MAP Sensor Return (Green Wire from ECU), TPS, RPM, Ground, & ignition power.

2.) Disconnect the Negative Terminal on the battery.

3.) Now, sit inside the cabin of your J, and locate a proper mounting spot for your AFC unit. I chose the steering column, but I DO NOT RECOMMEND this spot as the AFC is extremely distracting.

4.) Once you have found a spot for the box, run your wires from the harness thru your firewall into your engine bay. LEAVE THE PLUG HARNESS DISCONNECTED FROM THE AFC BOX though.

I am supplying a picture of the Saturn Install, but it is the same wires needed and diagram for our setup you will find in the AFC page 43 online manual.

5.) With your wires routed to the ECU, you will need to take the RED wire from the AFC and piggyback connect it to the Power Wire on the ECU plug harness. (1995 2.3L's - Orange Wire - Pin 11 - 2nd Plug - In between a Tan & Purple Wire)

6.) Next, locate the GREEN wire from the AFC harness, and piggyback connect it to either the WHITE wire on the IDI Plug Harness, OR located the TACH spot in the engine bay fuse block. It will say it on the cover. (1995 2.3L's).

7.) At the ECU again, take the GRAY wire from the AFC harness and piggyback connect it to the TPS Signal wire. (1995 2.3L's - DARK BLUE WIRE - Pin 29 - 2nd Plug - In between the GRAY & RED/BLACK wire).

8.) NEXT & SUPER IMPORTANT STEP: You will need to take the BROWN & the BLACK wire from the AFC harness. These are your ground wires that NEED to be grounded to the ECU harness. Locate the Ground Wire on the ECU. You will need to piggyback connect the
BROWN WIRE to the ECU Ground. Move a centimeter to an Inch AWAY from the BROWN WIRE GROUND, moving away from the ECU. Then piggyback connect the BLACK WIRE to that SAME ECU GROUND WIRE!!! NOTE DO NOT JOIN the BLACK & BROWN GROUND WIRES. (1995 2.3L's - Black/White wire - Pin 23 - 2nd Plug).

9.) At this point, check your connections before proceeding. Make sure they are tight secure connections.

10.) Now, you will need to locate the MAP Sensor Signal Wire (GREEN 2.3L & 2.4L). Create some slack in the wire, and then CUT the wire. You will now need to CONNECT with a MALE Fitting the YELLOW WIRE From the AFC Harness to the Green wire heading to
the ECU.

11.) Now, take the WHITE WIRE from the AFC and connect it with a FEMALE FITTING to the other cut half of the GREEN MAP WIRE Heading to the sensor.

12.) Optional MOD: I was reading up and found out, that you can use the BLUE WIRE off of the AFC Harness, and piggyback connect it to the O2 Sensor Purple Wire. With this mod, you can monitor your O2 Voltage, and eliminate the need for an Air/Fuel Gauge. I performed this mod since I was elbow deep in the install, but I would not RELY on this for full tuning
purposes. I tune my AFC via my EGT gauge.

With the above wires properly and tightly connected, secure and loom your wires in the engine bay from harm, and in the cabin under the dash as well. Plug in your AFC and turn the Key to the "ON" position, but DO NOT START THE CAR YET!!!!!!

With the key in the on position, please follow these small setup steps I performed to insure a safe start up and function.

After the screen comes on and says "APEXi", you will see a screen that says;
1. Monitor
2. Setting
3. etc.
Go to etc., scroll down to 6. Initialize and select YES. This will erase whatever was in the APEXi so you can start from scratch and properly put in your settings. The key to the OFF position to complete.

Now, from this point, the turn back to the ON position, but do not start the car.
After the screen comes on and says "APEXi", you will see a screen that says;
1. Monitor
2. Setting
3. etc.
Go to etc., select
1. Sensor Type, then press Next
Select 3. Pressure
You will then see a screen that say In Out.
You will need to select what pressure voltage the AFC will see from the MAP Sensor. I put 4 IN & 00 OUT. I had it set on 4 OUT, but our MAPS produce low volt under high vacuum.

Once you've finished, press back twice. Choose 2.) Car Select. This was a trickey decision, but trust me when I say, select CYL 2 & for the THR option, put the arrow facing right and up. Then press back. The reason for the CYL 2, is with that option, your AFC will PROPERLY give you the correct RPM Signal readout. IMPORTANT FOR YOUR TUNING AND FUEL CURVE. That worked perfectly fine on the OBD I Computer. OBD II guys, Try CYL 4 & CYL 12. They should work.

Now press BACK once and select Graph Scale.
I have mine set at:
Pr: 1.0kg/cm2 (1 bar MAP)
Ne: 8000rpm (My new redline is 7400 - )
Cr: +/- 30%

Now press BACK once and select Sensor Chk.
This will give you a reading on your sensors to know if they are giving the proper voltage.

Now press BACK once and select VFD Bright. This is the select how bright or dill you want your display. Easy enough.

When done, hit BACK until you return to the Monitor screen. From this point on, you can NOW consult your AFC Manual, but it is pretty self - explanatory. Meaning, your remaining options are setting your Throttle Point Switch % for Lo/Hi Adjustment, Monitor your vitals etc etc.

Once you complete those, you are set to start the vehicle and tune! I recommend starting the vehicle BEFORE setting your fuel curve.

I hope these instructions get people under way on there install. Its a great unit, and its about DAMN TIME SOMEONE GOT ONE TO WORK ON A J-BODY THAT CAN ANSWER HOW!

Just be extremely careful and make your adjustments in +/- 1% increments when tuning. Remember this unit is the real deal and can make or break your cars performance and engine.

Enjoy everyone!!!!!!!!!
Most people that have this on there cav will tell you that ever car is different so go get it installed and tuned by a professional

Sorry I can not host the pic that goes with this <br>

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 8:03 PM
<A HREF="">Battery Relocation</A>

Author: HanzenRider
Date: 11-30-03 09:05 PM

Well, I've been getting a few request on how I did the battery relocation on my car and a couple installed it wrong and asked me to help them fix their problem so I've decided to post it on the org...finally to help everyone that might have questions on how to do this mod. I have my personal friend to thank for this modification. This mod really helps when you want more room in your engine compartment for performance purposes.

Anyways...DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON BATTERY RELOCATION KITS from Jegs or Summit. U can get your own stuff if you live close to any of the shops listed below.

Heres the stuff you will need...

-One Black Battery Box
(can be found at Pep Boys, Autozone, etc.)

-4 gauge cable wire, about 20 feet long, give or take, for positive and negative connection.
(can be found at any Sound performance shop)

-One quick disconnect switch for negative line (optional)
(can be found at Pep Boys, Autozone, etc)

-One distributor box for positive line (optional)
(can be found at any sound performance shop)

-One RED TOP OPTIMA BATTERY (optional but recommended since its dry cell)

-A bag of metal sheet screws (recommended for bolting down the black battery box)
(can be found at any hardware stores)

Here is the pictures...

(Fig. 1)

(Fig. 2)

(Fig. 3)

Okay... now I will explain how I ran the positive line and negative line. For the positive line, I took the line off from the battery, took the battery out, removed the battery tray (thanks SonicZ for the help), and i bolted down the distributor box on the frame as you can see on Fig. 2 above. You will see that you have to cut the line that runs to the fuse box off the positive line. This is how i chose to do this. U can keep it on and splice it on the new wire for the postive line that runs from the engine compartment all the way to the trunk. But I found that using this box really helps and gives you more options if you needed more positive connection for any other "ADD ONS" mods. So, I ran the fuse box line to the box and bolted in there. I have an AMP line for my speakers that runs into the positive line as well as you can see in Fig. 2 above. Its pretty much common sense if you look at the picture.

Now...for the negative line...this is where people get confused sometimes. Please do not take offensive as we all learn new things and we all learn from our mistakes. The way GM designed the negative line is to run from the battery to the battery tray to the engine. So... From battery to chassis to engine. If you dont hook it up the same way GM designed, your motor will not run right and your stock gauges will go out of whack. The way I designed mine negative line, it has three chassis grounds before it reaches to the engine. For my preference, i felt it was a more secure ground, but you can only use one chassis ground if you prefer. As you can see in Fig 3 above, I have a quick disconnect switch on the negative cable attached to the battery and with a turn of a knob, the cable line comes off. I added this to make it easy for me to disconnect the negative line. Without the negative, there is no power in the car. I had the negative line run from the battery to the rear strut tower (1st chassis ground) to the front strut tower (2nd chassis ground) (see fig. 1 above) to the frame where the battery tray used to be (3rd chassis ground) to the motor near the starter.

As for my battery tray as you can see in Fig. 3, I drilled about 6 to 8 VERY SMALL holes in the trunk where I wanted to sit my battery tray at and used the sheet metal screws to bolt down the battery tray and it doesnt even budge when i try to move it around. Dropped the battery in there, did a little cutting to make room for the lines to run to the battery and then I was done. How you want to hold the battery tray is up to you. Im just showing you how I did with mine and so far, with harsh roads and bumpy ride, I have not had one problem with it.

I just want you guys to understand that Im not responsible for what you might try to do on your car as Im only showing you what I did based on my experience and please be cautious when you do this mod. I hope this helps motivate people to do this mod and if you got any more questions, I'd be happy to help but I think this pretty much covers everything. Good Luck

Happy Boosting...

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Tuesday, December 16, 2003 8:39 PM
awesome damn job man, sweet! <br>

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Wednesday, December 17, 2003 4:26 AM
Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Thursday, December 18, 2003 8:30 PM
Hey event,
what about pullies? any good on your advice column?
Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Thursday, December 18, 2003 8:52 PM
comming tonite as well as oil and tranny coolers, typing right now... <br>

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Friday, December 19, 2003 12:50 AM
Pulleys <img src="">

pulleys are a good way to get power, but most pulleys are a give and recieve ordeal. by give and recieve i mean that you gain a bit quicker acceleration, but an underdrive set will normally come with an alternator pulley that will slow down the charging rate. Now if you are looking to make a faster car and dont care about a big system as some do, then go for the pulleys. at stop lights on some cars the lights may dim a little, but thats about it. For those who are trying to get the best of both worlds, there is a possibility that you can. some companies offer alternator pulleys that counteract the charging problems associated with some kits. you would have to call and verify which companies do unless others will post here and verify.

Now there are two ways to go at pulleys. Smaller Diameter ones, or simply a custom made lighter pulley of stock size. the main reason the pulley gives you quicker acceleration is due to smaller size (more revolutions per second). if you are confused at this point, think about the earth VS all the planets... they all travel in an orbit around the sun, however the planets closest in, earth for example, take the shortest amount of time and in turn can make more revolutions in the time that a planet farther out will take, such as pluto.

now even yet another option to this which would help to rev and rotate faster, is less weight. the less something weighs the quicker it moves right. now something you can look into, it may have to be custom is lighter stock sized pulleys. less rotating mass equals faster to move. think of how with brakes, a solid rotor is cool, like from baer and their upgraded kit, however the lighter two piece aluminum hat rotors offer 3lbs less of rotating mass. in turn this helps with rotating mass and it takes less energy to get in motion (refer back to highschool potential and kinetic energy in physics).

Some 2.2 OHV companies that offer pulleys as of this time:
Cavalier Connection

For the 2.4:


There may be more so dont feel shy to use the links on the first page and search the sites.

Oil and Tranny Coolers. <IMG SRC="">

this is something as of late that has been sought after. the first thing to determine the choice of a oil or tranny fluid cooler is to figure out if you need one or not. one of the worst things you can do is try to fix things that arent broke, you usually end up breaking them. in the same sense, if your oil or tranny fluid isnt higher than it is supposed to be, or in the range of the operating temp, then you really dont need a cooler (mainly automatics, manual fluid isnt under pressure and heat like autos are). So how do you find out. you most likely need to add a guage with a sending unit to the oil you wish to measure. then under normal and whatever other driving conditions you will be able to see how high it goes to in your hardest driving conditions.

now oils break down due to high heat. we have all seen the commercials with denis leary and what it does to your engine. so you know the deal. the same holds true for the transmission fluid which is also an oil. for reg tranny fluid, the operating temp in the GM shop manual is listed from 175-194 degrees...anything higher and you start shortening the life of the fluid. simple as that. not sure on the engine oil, but the same holds true with thermal breakdown. a recent post on JBO stated that around 240 degrees is a good temp. keep in mind oil is what cools the block and components as well as lubricates the engine's inside.

Now whats size oil cooler should you get? all depends. there is no perfect one, and as i am aware no set level of cooling percentage per style oil cooler. some even come with fans, but for the most part the avg J-driver will not need the fan cooled ones...

for transmissions. if you race, something like a 4-6 row cooler should be sufficient.

with engine oil coolers they are generally smaller most times but the tubes are thicker. so a 2-4 row one will normally work.

so dont go out and buy the biggest one you can find. find something that would seem appropriate or ask local speed shops or online suggestions of what you will need.

just an example:
during regular non winter driving before and after the transmission upgrades on my car, when on the gas hard and in AutoX my temps rose as high as 218 degrees. the max in the operating range, is 194 degrees. i was easily over 20 degrees. which on many sites reputable for fixing transmission, it shows that every 20 degrees over halfs the life of tranny fluid.


How does temperature affect transmission fluid life?

Automatic transmission fluid will provide 100,000 miles of service before oxidation occurs under normal operating temperatures of about 170F. Above normal operating temperatures, the oxidation rate doubles (useful life of fluid is cut in half) with each 20 increase in temperature.
The approximate life expectancy at various temperatures is as follows:

Temperature Life expectancy
175F 100,000 miles
195F 50,000 miles
212F 25,000 miles
235F 12,000 miles
255F 6,250 miles
275F 3,000 miles
295F 1,500 miles
315F 750 miles
335F 325 miles
355F 160 miles
375F 80 miles
390F 40 miles
415F Less than 30 minutes
This information clearly shows why transmission oil coolers and the various maintenance intervals are recommended for severe usage.

source of above chart credited to Niehoff and MANY other sites with the same chart. obviously someone knows something. consistency in sources is pretty much proof. Even Amsoil....

****same as for overheating tranny fluid, overcooling in cold times, like winter aka NOW can cause gelling of fluid:****


Q. Can you over cool the transmission fluid? A. Transmissions are not highly sensitive to cool operating temperatures. However, in sub-zero (20-30 F) weather conditions transmission fluid can actually gel up in an external cooler and cease to flow, causing damage. Use of the radiator cooler actually helps warm the fluid under these conditions. It is critical in extreme cold conditions to use the original equipment cooler in series with the auxiliary cooler and allow the vehicle to warm up before driving.

some places to get coolers are and . rksport carries oil coolers, but not tranny coolers last i checked. distributors of Rksport products like, and possibly will be able to get you these products. most all of the companies listed prob can order you some.

also something that will apply to the oil coolers, alot of people have questions about synthetic and petroleum(regular fluids). this "myth buster" from amsoil might also shed a little light on things:

From via

In an effort to set the record straight, we've assembled ten of the more persistent myths about synthetic motor oils to see how they stack up against the facts.
Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.
Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.
Ultimately it is the additive mix in the oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.
Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.
Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").
For example, it makes no difference whether it is 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) that oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.
Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.
Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended to use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)
Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.
Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used untested ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.
Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.
Myth#5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.
Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer. But, beware, many of the other "synthetics" are not true PAO (Polyalphaolefin) synthetics (ie: Castrol Syntec, Penzoil, etc...) they are hydroisomerized petroleum oil or an ester based synthetic blend.
Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge
Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperatures and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum basestocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gums and varnishes. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital engine protection. Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow to critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.
Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.
Two other causes of sludge - ingested dirt and water dilution - can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system respectively, not the oil.
Myth #7: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.
Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum oils are similar compounds and neither si damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.
Myth #8: Synthetics void warranties.
Untrue. No major manufacturer of automobiles specifically bans the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on the showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.
New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example SG/CE). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty. In point of fact, in the over 25 years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving, these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker's warranty.
Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.
Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic basestocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dilution and acids (the by-products of combustion) tend to use up additives in an oil, allowing degradation to occur.
However , by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic motor oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.
Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.
Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical that conventional non-synthetics.
In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.
Since their inception, manufacturers of synthetic motor oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. As was the case with microwave ovens or electric lights, a highly technological improvement must often overcome a fair amount of public skepticism and consumer inertia before it is embraced by the general population.
But the word is getting out as a growing number of motorists worldwide experience the benefits of synthetic lubrication. The wave of the future, in auto lubes, is well under way


Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Friday, December 26, 2003 10:59 PM
Great info here. Too bad most won't even read this at all BEFORE posting. If you want them too read this thread, rename it - "VSS mod solution!!", "+50 Hp mod chips", or "The best electic supercharger". <br>

I've never heard of this "part throttle" before. Does it just bolt on?
Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Sunday, December 28, 2003 9:54 AM
Bastardking3000 wrote:Great info here. Too bad most won't even read this at all BEFORE posting. If you want them too read this thread, rename it - "VSS mod solution!!", "+50 Hp mod chips", or "The best electic supercharger".

How true. <br>

Click below to go to !
<img src=>
Comming Soon -
Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Monday, December 29, 2003 2:05 PM

if you are unsure how an engine works, or how things function inside the engine, this link sets you off to plenty


this site has also alot of other things you can look up if you dont understand how it works... <br>

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Monday, December 29, 2003 2:08 PM

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Monday, January 05, 2004 11:35 AM
This is the most awesome post I've ever read! That's some amazing advice and saved me a lot of question asking in the future! Even though I'll probably ask anyway! <br>

2001 Chevy Cavalier Z24

PHVFD&RS EMT Station 7
Westside in this mother @!#$er
You light em, we fight em!
You maul em, we haul em!
Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Friday, January 09, 2004 2:13 AM
glad some can make use of it.

more info...just the basics...

IAT relocation is explained WHY its pointless to do so on the first page....

if you have had a check engine light or left out the IAT when installing your new intake, refer to this diagram...

<img src="">

for the breather filter element...purely optional....

<img src=""> <br>

Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Sunday, January 11, 2004 2:45 PM
how about a section on which engine conversions will fit in a 3rd gen.
Re: Performance FAQ (Read B4 posting) General over
Sunday, January 11, 2004 11:25 PM
any engine will fit if you have the money., the knowledge and the parts and patience...... nuff said.

UNLESS its a 2.2ohv,2200sfi, 2.2 ecotec, 2.4 or 2.3, some to MAJOR fabrication will be needed...

there is no such thing as an easy swap for all.... unles you are using an engine that has already been put in the car...

once again, even though some newbs are hard headed.... ANY ENGINE WILL GO IN WITH MONEY... HOW RICH ARE YOU?

And for those who still DO NOT GET THIS... this has already been answered on PAGE 1...

kthanx <br>

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