I saw a topic on turbocharging but didn't want to hijack the guys thread so I started this one.. Back in this thread ---> http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=322683&t=322683 I was looking for info so I could finish my turbo 2.2L. I ended up changing the injector plug and went to a ford style 36# injector. I got everything done, turbo is a T28 unit, good for about 250hp, running a F.A.S.T. stand alone, MSD digital 6, big intercooler, sheet metal intake. Put the car on the dyno this last tuesday, and went from 131 hp/ 136 lbs to the tire, to 212 hp/ 198 lbs. I thought great. Graph was smooth as anyting I had ever seen, but was breaking up a little on top, but I attribute that to the .043 plug gap, which I closed down to .025. Started to work on the drivability, since I knew the power was almost where I wanted it, and at 2500-3200 rpm, it was breaking up really bad. Left the dyno that way, thinking I might have a faulty injector. Had them tested perfect. Put it all back together, fired it up to take a spin around the block to data log what it was doing, and the thing started to sound like it was on three cylinders. Great, so go home let it cool, and my buddy calls me later to tell me he pulled the #1 plug and the plug had been tagged and the gap closed. Now I have compression as follows: #1 75 #2 155 #3 155 #4 95. Do you think it is possible that the tensioner lossend enough to allow the cam to skip a tooth? If so, do you think it is possible the valve could have closed the plug gap? Any info you can point me to on how to check the cam timing will be greatly appreciated. Also, who has the cheapest 2.2L crate motors? I have seen 2000 bucks or so, but want to see if I can find one cheaper. Thanks in advance for any and all help you all offer...

One more question. Do you think valve float could be possible? I only made 9# of boost. If so, who makes a decent valve spring kit ?