I'm looking into doing a minor P&P on my spare head and found the standard abrasives website, i know people on here have used this before but Which standard abrasives set did you purchase? what are some helpful tips when doing this? did you use an eletric dremel, or use an air grinder?
I have never done it but, the heads that I had on my maro were done by the guy I bought them from. I will see if I can find his email or something.
2012 HD VRSCF
2010 Ford Explorer
2006 Ford Ranger
2004 Chevy Cavalier
Air die grinder... took me 4 hours as it was. I can't imagine how long it would take with a dremel... forever!!!
I used the regular head porting kit... but the parts were too big to fit. Some carbide burrs would work better, with some small polishing pieces. You don't need the big V8 head kit, as it won't work well. Would be nice if they made a Sport Compact head porting kit with smaller bits in it.
Lenko, John Lenko wrote:Air die grinder... took me 4 hours as it was. I can't imagine how long it would take with a dremel... forever!!!
Actualy not as bad as you would think. I've done mine myself on my cars and it takes about an afternoon. You just use the good cutting stuff like for your die grinder and it shouldn't take you much longer.
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
i did my head and intake mani. took about all day to do both. i just gasket matched mine as best as i could.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090440
I use a mix of Dremel and Air grinder, pending on what I ma doing. On the average a head takes me 13 hours, including cleaning, rip down, lap new valves, and rebuild. If you want a price on a head just PM me with what you want and i will hook ya up.
P.S. its no where near the $1000 mark of most companies
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
i thought it was fairly easy to do. used a die grinder to remove the majority of the metal and then used the dremel for finishing touches. i also used a very fine wire brush that went into the die grinder and used it up and down the inside of my intake mani. took alot of metal off and is very smooth.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090440
so does anyone want to do mine for me?
It depends. Where do you live and do you have another car to drive while I woould be doing it ? If you have another car OR don't mind the shipping turn around then I'll be happy to do it for you. $100.00 Plus bits.
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
So what are some recommended kits?
2004 Cavalier
13.2@105........
Mods...
BFG Drag Radials
Saab Turbo kit
2.5 exhaust, w/cutout
Spec Stage 2+ Clutch
yeah, since that the one question that didn't get answered yet. which set did you use?
I piece together the bits I need for maximum effectiveness. If you have not ported a head before stay avay from fast cutting metal bits. You can do some serious damage, really quick. Get the stones and take your time, follow up with flap wheels (they leave a great finish).
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
where are some places that you can buy these kits? home depot? lowe's?
2004 Cavalier
13.2@105........
Mods...
BFG Drag Radials
Saab Turbo kit
2.5 exhaust, w/cutout
Spec Stage 2+ Clutch
no offense guys, but if you've never done this before or dont have someone to show the techniques, you could very easily end up making the head flow worse.
there's a reason shops can charge stupid ammounts for headwork, and a reason hardcore guys pay the price.
The only polishing I'd feel comfortable with is the exhaust ports.
no offense dude, but if your never gonna grow the balls to try to do something, your never gonna learn how to do it. and big deal if i mess up the head, i'll go buy another from the junkyard not a huge deal.
and the reason shops can charge stupid amounts for headwork is because the amount of time and hand work needed to do it. I can gaurentee that if a shop did the work they have a chance of f'in it up to, and since most shops don't specialize in the certain motor head than the have a bigger chance of f'in it up. And all the tricks they use to port different heads can be found online.
Volumeking333 wrote:no offense dude, but if your never gonna grow the balls to try to do something, your never gonna learn how to do it. and big deal if i mess up the head, i'll go buy another from the junkyard not a huge deal.
alright.
Maybe not a huge deal for someone with an 8 valve head. (cheap and abundant)
My reasons for not touching the intake and combustion chamber:
If you smooth out the intake port the fuel atomizes less, giving less power. (proven)
If you port the C.C. you reduce the compression ratio of the engine. Giving less power.
I'd say go hog wild on your OHV.
i know we need to keep the air intake side rough and the exhaust side to be smooth
not touching the combustion chamber
I did about 18 hours of head porting and polishing on my sohc sunbird. What a pain..... soooo worth it though.
Cardomain|
Myspace
what did you use?^^^
I got all the time in the world, my cars not running, i got a spare motor, and theres like 2 ft of snow here.
eh, Sunfires... (Tom) wrote:
My reasons for not touching the intake and combustion chamber:
If you smooth out the intake port the fuel atomizes less, giving less power. (proven)
If you port the C.C. you reduce the compression ratio of the engine. Giving less power..
You are off a bit here. When you port the intake you do not want to mirror polish the runners. Thats when you have problem with the fuel staying atomized.So yes you want to port the intake, great gains are always found, you just have to know how to finish it.
As for the combustion chamber, when you do a bowl blend you are not tryin to remove alot of material. What you want to do is remove any high spots and leave the chamber nice and smooth. The reason for this is the "stress risers" can cause detonation due to small heat spots. When you do a bowl blend you eliminate this. The other thing you can do on a head is unshroud the valves. Now yes you will drop some compression (not a lot) but the added flow capabilities of the valves far out weight the loss in compression for performance.
If you just want to polish the head, thats fine. You really cant do much damage to it. All you need to do is smooth out the runners and you are set. To port the head is a different story. Do not screw aroudn with this unless you like wasting money at the junkyard. On the average I only charge around $400 for a head. Thats not bad considering your average head is well over a grand.
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
I'm almost finished porting my OHC Audi heads. Done completely with a dremel and bits found at Home Depot / Lowes. I've found the most useful to be the conical cutting bit (use carefully), both sizes of conical grinding bits (the reddish ones, not the greennish), and the almighty flap wheels (excellent for the exhaust ports, but I didn't have to deal with the lumps in the runners). You will also probably use both sizes and grits of sanding rounds. I have easily dozens of hours into mine, but I've been taking my time since I've never done this before. I have gasket-matched intake and exhaust runners, blended all the way through; completely smooth short-side radaii; unshrouded valves, mirror-finished combustion chambers and exhaust runners; and the hardest part, removed all the casting flaws (some MAJOR flaws on these heads, booo Audi).
From what I've seen of the LN2 heads I've looked at, they should be really easy other than the added difficulty of the ports being pretty small and curved. Everything seems to be pretty smooth and well-sized already, so there shouldn't be too much work involved. I'm hoping to get started on this '93 head before classes start back up at the end of the month, and I'll throw a little write-up together to post on here.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
sounds good man^
2004 Cavalier
13.2@105........
Mods...
BFG Drag Radials
Saab Turbo kit
2.5 exhaust, w/cutout
Spec Stage 2+ Clutch
i need to know a bit before to buy all my stuff