I am looking at having my head ported and polished, my question is what will this do to my gas mileage...I commute to school right now about 80 miles a day. I only have 1year left, and if this ends up hurting my gas mileage much I will put it off for the 1 year until school is done and I have less miles to travel and more cash in the pocket.

Also, what do you recommend for the valve-train. Would stock components work all right if I am not looking at boosting or putting out large horsepower. Pretty much asking...what should I upgrade in the head.

Thanks for the input guys.



"When you think about it from a native plant perspective, Johnny Appleseed was a @!#$ biological terrorist."

Well, first off, why do you want to do it??... and 2nd, more air = more fuel needed.... I would personally wait.. And if you are gonna go as far as a P&P, you might as well upgrade valvetrain...



P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

I really just want to make some respectable power, I'm not going crazy with it though as it is still going to be a daily driver. I read a ton on the subject and everybody seemed to have a nice outcome from thier P&P job. Any idea on what the mileage difference might be...if it is not horrible I would like to do it sooner, I can stand it for the last year of school. Any idea what the power increase was as well?

Thanks for the quick reply and info as well...keep it coming




"When you think about it from a native plant perspective, Johnny Appleseed was a @!#$ biological terrorist."

power and gas mileage do not belong in any other sentence than,

more power will give you worse gas mileage.

if you want the power your going to have to sacrifice the gas mileage


the power gains really depends on alot of things and no one is going to be able to tell you an exact idea, and like I'mPhat said wait until you can upgrade the valve train and you'll see the most gains

Depending upon how much you port, you could end up with little or no loss of milage. If you keep your foot out of it, you might even gain a small amount of milage. A mild P&P can actually improve the efficiancy of you motor, but with only a little gain in power. You won't notice much of a gain till you do other mods that match the power band of your motor.

You don't list any mods in your profile, so I take it you are probably completly stock. If so look at the basic bolt ons first, an intake, header and full 2 1/4" exhast (including a high flow catalitic converter). You'll see more of a gain initially with the bolt ons than with a P&P and when you do the P&P, it too will be more noticeable.

Read the FAQ's at the top of this forum for more info, the do some research on any topic of interest. There's alot of info to be found, just by doing some searching.

Well, a p&p is what you make of it. You can do a mild but efficient job, and still make power. You don't have to make the power through adding air, but you can do it by making the head more efficient. Polish the exhaust runners and combustion chamber to a mirror finish, and smooth out the short side radaii. You can also mill the head down a tad to bump up compression a little, also making the engine more efficient. Even if you do go with a very thorough port job, the decrease in milage would be negligable, even more so if it's highway driving.

Also, you DO NOT have to 'upgrade' the valvetrain, it's pointless on these engines (for the street at least). The stock valves/springs/retainers/locks/rockers(especially on the 2200)/pushrods are all beefy enough to handle up to .47some" lift. So, unless you are planning on spinning 7k+ RPM, upgrading these is really not necessary. And of course, if you want to change out the cam, the block has to come out, so it's not something many people consider doing (and this would definately affect your gas mileage).

Volumeking, since this is my last post of the month, I'll just reply to yours here. My advice is not to polish the intake runners, and to be careful around the valve seats Don't go overboard on the porting, and leave the humps. You can also polish up the area on the head under the valve cover to help the oil flow better.

Does anyone know how they measure the flow through the heads (like volumeking's readings in his thread)? Do they just apply a vacuum under the valve? How does it account for possible shrouding? Are those numbers for flow through an individual cylinder, or corrected for all four total? A 2.2L couldn't even use more than 50 CFM at 5000rpm...



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.