Does anyone have verified results with this? Dyno #'s?
I got a stock intake off ebay, CHEAP, and am going to port it. Is there a write up on this anywhere? Pics?
Im wondering what the diff will be.... But w / all the other crap im about to throw at it at the same time, I wont really know what is making the biggest diff.
Just looking for results, not trash talking or SOTP Dyno. 1/4, 1/8 mi times yeah, "but it felt like it made more power" means nothing to me, #'s do..
Thanks in advance.......
I highly dought any broke ass J owner is gonna waste the time and money to do a before and after dyno of simplely port matching a plastic intake manifold. So if the numbers are so important and butt dyno and opinions don't matter why don't YOU be the first to get before and after dyno results. It literally takes about 10 minuets to swap the manifold.
Why dont you just save up your money and Purchase a real GM manifold, Example GM p/n 88958629. Its made by Bates Engineering in conjuctions with GM Racing. It works with the cobalt, cavy and sunfire 2.2L ecotec engines. However its not street legal, and does not function correctly with production engine management systems.
Or even better, add the 5.3L V8 TB. p/n: 17113647
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, August 15, 2006 7:41 PM
the GM performance manifold will fit the engine but not the car. It made for boosted aplications and is is pretay big in size. It wont clear the radaiator when bolted to the head. The most realistic options is A- custom made B- shelling out $1000 for the venom one C-port matching the stock plastic one for free
or option D...buying the HRC intake manifold. Cheaper than the Venom AND GM manifolds. Log style manifold that fits perfectly in the car and uses the stock TB
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
I don't know if he's looking to turbo, but the HRC intake manifold is only recomended for applications running 15 psi or more. The way he's talking about porting the stock manifold, I don't think forced induction is in the near future. Also this topic has run itself into the ground.
feldma8a wrote: Also this topic has run itself into the ground.
I couldn't agree more.
Yes, FI is in the near future. Haven't made up my mind on which way to go though. I like the SC's for their everyday driveablity, but the turbos are making some big #'s.
Point and case, I have an extra manifold, gonna see what I can do with it.
And for the critics
Darkstars wrote:So if the numbers are so important and butt dyno and opinions don't matter why don't YOU be the first to get before and after dyno results. [\quote]
If it is as easy to swap as you say, we will definitely see if we can get some dyno time so all of you broke a$$e$ can see the #'s.
feldma8a wrote:I don't know if he's looking to turbo, but the HRC intake manifold is only recomended for applications running 15 psi or more. The way he's talking about porting the stock manifold, I don't think forced induction is in the near future. Also this topic has run itself into the ground.
Where have you seen that the HRC manifold is only for applications of 15PSI or more? Adam was running it on 10PSI with no issues.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
its definetly as easy as I say it is. remove the intake form TB, 4 bolts in the TB, unplug the sensors, leave the throttle cable attached just push the TB out of the way. Remove the fuel rail which is a quick disconect fiting and 2 bolts and pulls straight out, there is one bolt holding the dipstick tube to the manifold, a plastic push rivet holding the knock sensor wiring conncector ont the manifold, there shoud be a brake boost vacum oien or somethign on there somewhere as well, I don't remeber off hand.... afte that its 8 10 MM bolts holding the manifold on. The are no coolant anywhere through the manifold or anythign liek that, just a bunch of 10 MM bolts/nuts for just about everyhtingI think the fuel rail bolts are 13 MM, the injectros seat in the head not the manifold so you don't have to swap imnjector cups ect.. Its very simple and pretay quick. The gaskets are rubber you don't have to replace them each time, you can resuse them with no problems they will stay on the manifold (you will need manifold and TB gasket for the new mani though) The only thing you really have to watch out for is MAP sensor, carefull not to break the tab that holds it in, you twist it counter clockwise past the little plastic tab and pulls stright out, I recomend doing thta before trying to unplug it.
if you willing to dyno before and after more power to you
I for one will give you a thanks for hard facts over speculation.
My engine builder has a dyno. I am paying him 3k+ to do the motor in my Vette, so getting dyno time shouldnt be a problem. I will be intrested to see the diff.....
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=315459&t=315459
you could get the saab aluminum intake manifold and get it p&p'ed at a machine shop, and even get them to boar out the mouth of the inlet to match the tb
just a thought...
p.s. hrc has a intake manifold?? how much?
|Forged 8.9:1 Wiseco Pistons|Forged Eagle Rods|HPTuners|60trim|Tial Wastegate|
|Precision Intercooler|2.5" Exhaust|2.5" Charge Pipes|630CC Mototron Injectors|
|Stock: Fuel Pump, Transmission, Manifold, TB, Head, Head Gasket, Ignition, Suspension...|
It's my understanding that the Saab intake sets the TB lower allowing a better bend between the induction and TB. The stock location on the J is so close to the hood. I believe it is this reason why most induction makers use smaller piping on the J.
For this reason, I woudl want it.
However, I do not have personal experience with the saab part, so I might be talking out of my ass.
Instead of telling you to do it and see how it goes, I actually went and found you some info. Keep in mind, this is only one person's testimonial, but he does provide track times.
"Yes, I port matched my intake mani just like in the old post, BUT while I gained some top end power, it moved my powerband up too far and actually decreased acceleration. I actually went out to the track with the "port matched" and the bored out TB and the BEST I could manage was a 15.5 Now... even though it was hot outside that day I can usually atleast pull off some 15.2's in the heat. So I removed it and put the stock one back on. A ported one kills your bottom end power."
This was taken from this post:
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=48&i=17595&t=16698#17595
This guy was the reason I decided not to port match mine.
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:feldma8a wrote:I don't know if he's looking to turbo, but the HRC intake manifold is only recomended for applications running 15 psi or more. The way he's talking about porting the stock manifold, I don't think forced induction is in the near future. Also this topic has run itself into the ground.
Where have you seen that the HRC manifold is only for applications of 15PSI or more? Adam was running it on 10PSI with no issues.
Don't want to be a dick about it but I read that it was
recommended for applications running 15 psi right off their website, I have no doubt someone ran it in their car with no problems, just saying that its recommended.
Website
Link
Quote "Recommended for applications of 15 PSI boost or higher, these expertly TIG-welded units won’t burst at high boost like the stock plastic manifold can."
feldma8a wrote:Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:feldma8a wrote:I don't know if he's looking to turbo, but the HRC intake manifold is only recomended for applications running 15 psi or more. The way he's talking about porting the stock manifold, I don't think forced induction is in the near future. Also this topic has run itself into the ground.
Where have you seen that the HRC manifold is only for applications of 15PSI or more? Adam was running it on 10PSI with no issues.
Don't want to be a dick about it but I read that it was recommended for applications running 15 psi right off their website, I have no doubt someone ran it in their car with no problems, just saying that its recommended.
Website
Link
Quote "Recommended for applications of 15 PSI boost or higher, these expertly TIG-welded units won’t burst at high boost like the stock plastic manifold can."
It may be RECOMMENDED for 15PSI and higher, but it will definately show gains under 15PSI. I know of someone thinking about putting one on a N/A Ecotec in fact.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
anyone know a price on this?
|Forged 8.9:1 Wiseco Pistons|Forged Eagle Rods|HPTuners|60trim|Tial Wastegate|
|Precision Intercooler|2.5" Exhaust|2.5" Charge Pipes|630CC Mototron Injectors|
|Stock: Fuel Pump, Transmission, Manifold, TB, Head, Head Gasket, Ignition, Suspension...|
Retail is $799.99. I can't get it much cheaper for you guys unfortunately. It takes about 3 weeks and is hand-made and hand-welded by Bill Hahn Jr. himself. If enough of you order at once then MAYBE I can come down a little bit.
Sorry I didn't reply to your PM earlier BTW. Didn't see it till last night. I rarely look up there...just happened to be adding to my profile and saw it. LOL.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
