I went to my first drag race with the Cav and I have never raced before with it. I did poorly due to me not knowing how to launch correctly. Its an auto tranny as well. My question is, what is the best and most effective way to launch off the line with an auto?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, July 22, 2009 5:28 AM
well firstly.. you've got to ditch those 75lb each 20" rims.
do that and your times will surely drop an entire second.
ive never taken my auto to the track unfortunately so i cannot say with entire certainty but brake standing has always been my best bet on the street. its where you mash the brake to hold the car, floor it and when you go just stay on the gas but let off the brake. and do this in 1st or 2nd gear. otherwise your traction control will engage and your car will bog. from then on its a drivers feel as you if you need to let off it a tad to stop spinning or not.
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z yaaaa wrote:well firstly.. you've got to ditch those 75lb each 20" rims.
do that and your times will surely drop an entire second.
ive never taken my auto to the track unfortunately so i cannot say with entire certainty but brake standing has always been my best bet on the street. its where you mash the brake to hold the car, floor it and when you go just stay on the gas but let off the brake. and do this in 1st or 2nd gear. otherwise your traction control will engage and your car will bog. from then on its a drivers feel as you if you need to let off it a tad to stop spinning or not.
LOL yeah I know my rims are heavy, but I'm trying to work with what I have till I get me some stockers or something for track days
I tried brake standing, but I wasn't sure how hard I could go in the rpm's without messing something up. Since I didn't know what I was truely doing, I wouldnt let it go past 3k rpms off the line. I've never driven my car hard in my life hence the 20's. I was running low 11's in the 1/8th the whole night
From my recent experience racing for the first time boosted with my auto Ill tell ya a couple things.
First, make sure you stage first so you have enough time to hold the brake and get your RPM's up to where you want them. If you stage second(like in my case at the bash) there really isnt enough time to do all that before the tree is ready.
What Brad said. Also with your rpm's where you want them and as soon as you see the green light just let off the brake and just mash the pedal and hope for the best lol.
See I learned i can't mash the pedal off the line because of the turbo, all I do is spin and spin. I realized my mistakes at the bash and will do better next time.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
WHITECAVY wrote:From my recent experience racing for the first time boosted with my auto Ill tell ya a couple things.
First, make sure you stage first so you have enough time to hold the brake and get your RPM's up to where you want them. If you stage second(like in my case at the bash) there really isnt enough time to do all that before the tree is ready.
What Brad said. Also with your rpm's where you want them and as soon as you see the green light just let off the brake and just mash the pedal and hope for the best lol.
See I learned i can't mash the pedal off the line because of the turbo, all I do is spin and spin. I realized my mistakes at the bash and will do better next time.
Thanks for the info. Whats a good RPM to shoot for when brake launching? Or is that something I'm going to have to feel out on my spare time?
Ok, my advise is as follows:
- Remove all lose junk from you car. Remove jack and spare is optional.
- Do not run A/C or any other electrical equipment while running down the track.
- If your on street tires DO NOT DO A BURN OUT!
- Drive around the water box if possible, unless on slicks.
- You want to do a VERY small one to two revolution burnout to remove any debris on your tires. NOT A FULL burn out.
- Ensure your windows are rolled up.
- Try to keep your cav as cool as possible. Open your hood if the weather is hot that day.
- If you have adjustable struts. I personally like the front very soft and the rear AS STIFF AS possible.
- Do not AIR DOWN STREET TIRES! You'll just be making your contact with the surface worse.
- Check air between runs to ensure your tires are not to high on air from the heat of the track.
- Do not be a dick and fully stage before your oponent. Pre stage with only one set of lights lite till your opponent pre-stages. Then fully stage. You should be able to give the car a little more RPM to creep forward till fully staged.
- If you have time while staged. Take car out of gear rev car once with foot on brake to build vacuum. This will let your brakes hold harder, and let you launch harder. You should feel your peddle drop towards the floor a little.
- Right foot on gas to around 2000RPM with a stock torque converter, and left foot HARD on brakes.
- Turn off Traction control by pulling up your e-brake one click or by putting your car in second or first. just remember to up-shift. LOL
- The faster car has priority on the return road. You should slow faster than he if you lost the race to show proper respect that you lost.
- DO NOT TURN ON STEREO in staging lanes!
- If your running a .500" tree. Leave at the last yellow. I leave when the last yellow is turning off. If you leave at green....you already have a bad reaction time.
- Some drag strips make drivers were JEAN pants.
- Ensure your car is not leaking any fluids. some techs actually do their job and check the cars.
I think that covers most of it.
Edited 3 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, July 22, 2009 6:22 AM
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Welcome.
I use to drag race ALL the time. I will again after I fix my damn car.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
I think its those beautifully big 20"S larry, lol for time purposes they hurt.
I only got to race you once man, next tuesday we have to get some more runs in!
Verocity wrote:I think its those beautifully big 20"S larry, lol for time purposes they hurt.
I only got to race you once man, next tuesday we have to get some more runs in!
LOL. Yeah I'm looking forward to it.
Damn Mike, just shut us all up why dont you HAHAHA.
But that was useful info tho, thanks.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
David...I do what I can.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
The part about not fully staging before your opponent Pre Stages is a big one
I got screwed on the weekend because of the guy beside me fully staged and i didnt have time to set myself
-MD- Enforcer wrote:Do not run A/C or any other electrical equipment while running down the track.
The A/C disengages at WOT
-
Interior FAQ -
J-Body of Michigan -
D-Mac wrote:The part about not fully staging before your opponent Pre Stages is a big one
I got screwed on the weekend because of the guy beside me fully staged and i didnt have time to set myself
I did that at the bash 2 out of the 3 times. I had no idea otherwise. It was also done to me now that I think about it.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Raptor wrote:-MD- Enforcer wrote:Do not run A/C or any other electrical equipment while running down the track.
The A/C disengages at WOT
Yes, but you can still be dripping water right by your tires, which is not a good idea.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Most tracks will throw you out if you drip water on the track FYI
color me lost but what would fully staging before the other guy does at all have anything to do with the amount of time the other driver has to get ready? you still get the same amount of time before the bulbs start regardless. dont you? at least thats what i think....
mike-it depends on the street tire if you deflate them or not and it actually assists. in my experience on the track ive improved my 60's by deflating them.
and why not run stereo??? i freaking love to blast mine before a run.
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z yaaaa wrote:color me lost but what would fully staging before the other guy does at all have anything to do with the amount of time the other driver has to get ready? you still get the same amount of time before the bulbs start regardless. dont you? at least thats what i think....
mike-it depends on the street tire if you deflate them or not and it actually assists. in my experience on the track ive improved my 60's by deflating them.
and why not run stereo??? i freaking love to blast mine before a run.
When you fully stage the second person that fully stages gets @!#$. There is a preset time interval till when the tree drops, and normally it is not enough time. It is also a dick move, and makes others angry. Locally, around here, you will be told to leave, because people do not like losing money over not being a good sportsman.
Most street tires do not like to be under inflated.
When your running electronics your drawing on your alternator, making it work harder, there for robbing horse power. Every little bit helps right?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, July 22, 2009 11:37 AM
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
yes... all good points... however...
interesting how the creaters of the christmas tree would be such a FAIL into the system. personally.. i purposely make the other driver fully stage first, then i go. its never been a hindrance on me. 99% of everyone here doesnt bracket race, so if you dont even want to screw with the tree you do not need to. your time doesnt start until you've tripped the starting 60 foot beam anyway. reaction time has absolutely nothing to do with your 1/4 mile time
so let me get this straight... your saying that one side fully stages and the other side has not, then they do... the side that staged last gets actually less time before the first yellow goes? i think that is just dumb. it shouldnt matter weather or not someone staged first. there should be a set time the first yellow goes after both are staged REGARDLESS of if they dont stage at the same time.that is just @!#$ty design right there.
and a power drop?? i was talking like a stock stereo. your car was designed to put out maximum power with the alternator it came with didnt it? unless i missed something i highly doubt the car would lose any power while you listened to the STOCK stereo down the track.
and besides... i said BEFORE a run anyways lol
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wait... i think i see what you mean. they get less time because the first person staged first and is just sitting there while the other is fooling with the bulbs. i understand now.
PFFT secret cams?! pm me if you want a real upgrade.
z yaaaa wrote:wait... i think i see what you mean. they get less time because the first person staged first and is just sitting there while the other is fooling with the bulbs. i understand now.
yeah, mainly with bracket racing. Especially if you the one who leaves first.
No one races with everything stock.
You got me on the before part.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
probly stupid question,i've never raced bfore though,what is staging?
blucavvy wrote:probly stupid question,i've never raced bfore though,what is staging?
when you are at the starting line, lining up to race
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