Lol you people are a Joke- If I were adam I would take this out of the Sticky........who the hell wants to here use bickering???? and "calling each other out"
Just to clear things up. I think the people that created the ecotec build guide (the real one) actually did the same. Look at figure 29
here , those intake manifolds look like they were shaved off. But maybe they werent.
yeah well they also used the custom aluminum manifold too....
i need to take a closer loook at my build boook......
like i said also befor, i apologize to everyone else, it was shildish from my side
wait for it... wait for it... NOW GO!! ---> '02 LS Sport <---
Yahoo IM : buzz122 AIM : buzz122cav
figure 29 shows a gasket on the head, not the intake manifold itself....
they only show the manifoild in fig 13 & 14, just the TB side... that i didn't do anything with
wait for it... wait for it... NOW GO!! ---> '02 LS Sport <---
Yahoo IM : buzz122 AIM : buzz122cav
oh, nvm then, looked like the intake manifold
i'm doing this over christmas break i'll let u know what i think
MY 2003 SUNFIRE 15.6@86mph
"A N/A ecotec is not gonna give Honda's and Mitsu's that much of a run for their
money unless their blown or bottle fed.GM is still smokin crack!"
~1QWKZ24
www.streetracing.org, 08/2001
I can't say enough... don't ever do this if you want to give up power down low. But up top, if you have all the other mod's to compliment (4-1 header, TB, hi-flow cat, performance muffler and bigger piping), it helps a little.
I did this a while ago and... Actually, I noticed a slight loss in power even when I am shifting @ 6500RPM's at the bottom of third gear.So it might be hurting me more than it's helping right now, but I am getting cams and I only care about whether or not it will help me when I'm racing.
Peace
2004 Cavalier
13.2@105........
Mods...
BFG Drag Radials
Saab Turbo kit
2.5 exhaust, w/cutout
Spec Stage 2+ Clutch
plastic intake manifolds suck!
ECOTEC wrote:I can't say enough... don't ever do this if you want to give up power down low. But up top, if you have all the other mod's to compliment (4-1 header, TB, hi-flow cat, performance muffler and bigger piping), it helps a little.
I did this a while ago and... Actually, I noticed a slight loss in power even when I am shifting @ 6500RPM's at the bottom of third gear.So it might be hurting me more than it's helping right now, but I am getting cams and I only care about whether or not it will help me when I'm racing.
Peace
yea i'm getting head work and cams done this year so this would help much more at that time. but i havent done a mod in 3 months and i need to do somethign and i dont have the money to buy anything right now.
MY 2003 SUNFIRE 15.6@86mph
"A N/A ecotec is not gonna give Honda's and Mitsu's that much of a run for their
money unless their blown or bottle fed.GM is still smokin crack!"
~1QWKZ24
www.streetracing.org, 08/2001
04firetec wrote:Oh, and the 14 guage wire is the ONLY wire going to the positive terminal from the alternator, fusible link, WTF? That has to be the worst lowest tech fusible link I have ever seen! That's the only wire linking the alternator to the positive battery terminal. What's the point of running 4 guage power wire to a stereo system from a battery that is being charged from a 14 guage wire? MORE IGNORANCE! You guys need to learn to think.
You know, I've been saying that for the longest time.
I work for a company that builds large power transformers (substations, etc) and I'm in the wiring department.
When we wire up 1,400 watt heater elements, we use two 10 guage wires traveling a distance of over 50-100 feet through rigid conduit along with 40 other wires bundled together.
If anyone can read, they can see the rating on the wire itself... the 10 guage wire and insulation will handle over 2000 watts and 1000 VAC, depending on what you buy.
So, I'm not right sure who the hell started the trend of running a 4 guage wire to a single 1,000 watt amp on DC voltage.
And has anyone ever heard of a Meggar test?
I bet not.
That would be where we pump 2,500 DC volts into the wiring to check for leaks.
The wire never even shows the first bit of heat.
...we run that test on 14 guage wiring as well.
It's just crazy how these audio manufactuers try to suck a little more money from people saying "a bigger wire means more thoroughput!". It's really not neccessary.
________________________________________________________
You're no good to the group if you never make it there.
I would just like to say that every motor is different, any mod to 1 motor does not mean the same results every time...case in point i own a 03 Grand am 5 speed. B-4 i blew the motor i was running 145 hp and 150 tq at the wheels. Put an 04 Cavi motor in only got 135 hp and 140 tq. now there are differences be-tween the 2 years and applications. You getting poor results makes me wonder if you know what you are doing.
167,000 on an Ecotec since 02
so anyone dyno this or anything yet lol sorry to bring back from the dead?
I didnt read the whole post cause it was mostly arguing,,but what he did was called port matching.And i have flow tested many heads and intakes and i can tell you for sure you get the most flow overall from port matching!That is actually the first thing you do when porting anything.Ask any old hotrodder or someone who does it for a living.And no matter how many people doubt it,it dont change that it still works.So port on my friend,but not too big,its not always better!
Bob wrote:04firetec wrote:Oh, and the 14 guage wire is the ONLY wire going to the positive terminal from the alternator, fusible link, WTF? That has to be the worst lowest tech fusible link I have ever seen! That's the only wire linking the alternator to the positive battery terminal. What's the point of running 4 guage power wire to a stereo system from a battery that is being charged from a 14 guage wire? MORE IGNORANCE! You guys need to learn to think.
You know, I've been saying that for the longest time.
I work for a company that builds large power transformers (substations, etc) and I'm in the wiring department.
When we wire up 1,400 watt heater elements, we use two 10 guage wires traveling a distance of over 50-100 feet through rigid conduit along with 40 other wires bundled together.
If anyone can read, they can see the rating on the wire itself... the 10 guage wire and insulation will handle over 2000 watts and 1000 VAC, depending on what you buy.
So, I'm not right sure who the hell started the trend of running a 4 guage wire to a single 1,000 watt amp on DC voltage.
And has anyone ever heard of a Meggar test?
I bet not.
That would be where we pump 2,500 DC volts into the wiring to check for leaks.
The wire never even shows the first bit of heat.
...we run that test on 14 guage wiring as well.
It's just crazy how these audio manufactuers try to suck a little more money from people saying "a bigger wire means more thoroughput!". It's really not neccessary.
you are kinda right, but with dc, you have only 12v to work with, so its all based on amperage. do the math on high volts vs. low volts on how the amps change delivering the same wattage, ya know? itss pretty drastic....HOWEVER if that IS a fussible link, which it proll\y is...you ddont want to do that!! that CANT be the only alt to batt wiring! cuz if the batt was dead, and the alt had to supply the needed amps to charge iit, you would MELT hat 14GA!!!!
ps read the bottom of my sig.........
andy
mecp certified installer#39272
srry to bring this back from the dead but i was just browsing today and found this.........
could this be a good option as opposed to the le5 manifold since it would require no tuning?
also..........is there anyone that has dyno results? obviously a few people tried it but no one got dyno's?
btw i know getting an answer about the dyno's is probly not gonna happen seeing as this thread is 5 years old
i can't be the only eco guy interested in this..........
6 pages long.... not gonna read it. lol
however, from reading the first page the basic question is porting/port-matching your manifold right? the answer is... yes! do it. helps flow a lot and will make the car feel like it has much more power in mid-upper rpms. when my buddy did it i think his et went from a 15.5 to a 15.3
Eat my shift
i might try it someday, but im not the most coordinated individual and dremeling a plastic manifold might be the death of me...definitely interested to see if there are any real gains to be had
M2 [@DesertTuners.com wrote:]6 pages long.... not gonna read it. lol
however, from reading the first page the basic question is porting/port-matching your manifold right? the answer is... yes! do it. helps flow a lot and will make the car feel like it has much more power in mid-upper rpms. when my buddy did it i think his et went from a 15.5 to a 15.3
thanks for the answer man, i think i may attempt this after i pick up a spare mani ( just in case
) i really wish i could afford the dyno trip to cuz i'm really curious what type of gains this could provide..........
Do you have a dyno close by Blu?
its only like 40 bucks for 3 pulls at a few places around here...unless your budget is pretty tight then i understand...
my budget's always tight! lol that's y i'm always interested in free mods!
i just want to dyno to see if there's any actual hp increase, or if it's just better throttle response or something of that nature. find out if it's even really worth it. if there is a power increase at least then the rest of the org would know about it.
but yeah there's a dyno like 20 mins from me.
blucavvy wrote:M2 [@DesertTuners.com wrote:]6 pages long.... not gonna read it. lol
however, from reading the first page the basic question is porting/port-matching your manifold right? the answer is... yes! do it. helps flow a lot and will make the car feel like it has much more power in mid-upper rpms. when my buddy did it i think his et went from a 15.5 to a 15.3
thanks for the answer man, i think i may attempt this after i pick up a spare mani ( just in case ) i really wish i could afford the dyno trip to cuz i'm really curious what type of gains this could provide..........
I have 2 just sitting in the garage......
well i just got back inside from installing and then taking a test run with the manifold i ported last nite. (srry didn't take ne pics, it wasn't exactly the prettiest job either but i do believe after driving it that it was efficient.
here's what i found
no noticeable drop to low end torque/hp, no notieable difference in the way the car drove at all under about 3,000rpm's seemed just like it always has been - slow............lolz
up and over about 3,000rpm's the car felt A LOT more responsive, it honestly did feel like a completely different car. I have to believe that there was some sort of power gain there.
I do plan on picking up a spare manifold at some point and dyno'ing this mod. Because like i said, it really does not seem like a placebo effect, the car really does feel more powerful and responsive once it hits that 3,000rpm mark.
So take that for what you will guys, anyone with a stock manifold that's looking for a bit more i truly do believe this mod works.
just thought i'd share my findings.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, July 24, 2010 4:30 PM
how far back did you port it? im doing this right now
