That book is a good bridge between technical and lay-man. It's very practical in application of suspension geometry and systems. Event is who recommended it to me (indirectly). It's not a complete guide to learning to do crazy suspension stuff, but a good start. I would rate myself up there with Lenko and McMoney, those two have more time, money, and resources than I do for sure.
Ug, that's supposed to say "I would
n't rate myself" with those other guys...... Can only edit for an hour......
thanks QuicklilCav much appreciation.
Maybe that can be my Christmas gift from my fiance'
WOOT WOOT
so what donor car was used?
99+ Grand AM GT or Olds Alero
hhhmmm i asked that same exact question and got my ass chewed 6 ways to sunday
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
Some help with finding brake lines for the rear.
PPB-OLDSAUR99CF = $58.70
http://www.paragonperformance.com/Olds.html
The Buick Park Ave shares the same platform as the Oldsmobile Aurora (G-body), so they should use the same brake lines.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
What an idea...
And with all this available information, (2 years worth) who wouldnt attempt it.
The other nice thing about it, is since Buick Killed the Alero, and Chevy Killed the Cavalier, there are allot of
busted up stuff, just sitting around in junkyards, collecting dust..
I cant wait for my bank account to build, supercharger, and the rear I.S. Perhaps I can squeeze another 150 000km out of this Cavi.
Feels allot nicer than slapping some dodge parts on my car..
sweet...
This forum is so cool..
Lenko, John Lenko wrote:and my J-body rear Eibach Pro-Kit springs, which I need to get N-body ones... cuz they don't sit right... with N-body rear strut mounts. (the J-body ones are too small a hole.. way too small).
Pics soon 
Marchi1 wrote:
4) Could you not use the upper J-body mount in lieu of the n-body? or did you redrill the upper surface to accomodate the N-body mount? this would alleviate the problem with having to change the springs?
CTS wrote: 4. "the J-body ones are too small a hole.. way too small" - Lenko
I think someone asked already, but did anybody actually try drilling a wider diameter hole through the stock j-body mount? When I lowered my car, I didn't really pay too much attention to the stock mounts,, so bare with me for a second. If i recall correctly, the stock J rear mounts are some sort of hard rubber material? with a metal washer/gromet type thing in the center where the strut rod comes up through. ('m guessing it acts as a reinforced bearing surface) i really wish i had a J mount to look at right now
....
Any insight on boring the center hole out to fit the N-strut rod? I'm sure that metal 'gromet' type thing would be ruined? Any ideas on replacing it or something?
[quote=97trd(???™)] GM is the 1's that told us it had to be narrowed 1" , and they had a 1" spacer between the frame rail and the cross member , they used the N-body rear strut , and J-body spring
..I wonder what they used for a mount?
mcmoney wrote: In a few weeks I will make some solid mount to match n-body strut with the right j-body spring seat
McMoney, do you have any followup information on this custom mount? I am very interested in seeing what sort of design you have? Were you designing a solid metal mount, with a lip downwards that would hold the J-spring in place?
CTS wrote: GC makes a CO kit for the SHO that will fit the rear
.
Hmm this is news to me, I must have missed it the first time i read this thread. This would be much more beneficial to me for trying to get the car lower than eibach pro-kit 1.4" drop for H body. Someone I think CTS mentioned tying the spring down to the perch and also up to the mount with some sort of wire? Same principle could be used for these suckers, eh? If they are too 'short' to apply tension forces to the mount and the perch, when the spring is not compressed.
After my J-body spring on N-body mount "coiled out" while driving home... I swapped to the N-body springs. I ended up buying a used set of N-body Eibach Pro-Kit springs, and used the rear on the IRS. I used the front J-body Eibach Pro-Kit still... so I had a matched set on the car (it looks pretty good all around...). I sold the N-body fronts... now I have a full rear set of J-body stuff (Eibach Pro-Kit and Koni Reds) which I'll probably use on my trailer project (don't know if it's going to be heavy enough, but we'll see...)
Two other guys here in BCJ (Patrick and Jay) both used J-body springs and used baling wire to tie the springs to the strut mount (drilled two little holes)... I don't know if I like that idea... after all, it's the suspension of the car... I don't want to go "cheap" on anything...
I don't know of anyone drilling out the J-body mount to accommodate the N-body strut rod.... I never looked at it.
Redzed99 wrote:Someone I think CTS mentioned tying the spring down to the perch and also up to the mount with some sort of wire?
Wasn't me. I agree with Lenko, doesn't sound like a good idea for suspension. I have stock N springs that I smashed. I thought about drilling out the J mounts, but it's a 3mm difference and that metal is only about 5mm thick to start with (that if you have a 14mm bit and can drill out just what's needed). It would be pretty thin by the time you're done with it.
You could just use the mounts/springs/SHOCKS from the J-body and be done with it
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
^You must not have tried that, because the wheel gap is about 3"+.
C.T.S wrote:^You must not have tried that, because the wheel gap is about 3"+.
That would depend on how you mounted it... at max height, mine looks to be about an inch shorter than the stock N-body
The adjustability of my lower mount, plus the adjustability of my Teins, I don't forsee a problem, and I didn't have to buy all the extra N-body lowering springs and struts. It just seems cheaper (although not necessarily easier).
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
i was curious about if anyone on here had considered or even adapted Tube steel with urethane bushings for the rear IRS swap. It seems to be if you have to cut and weld some parts maybe start with a better part.
i was told the tube steel (i work at a lexus dealer so i can get GX control arms off warranty cars) wouldnt flex as much. Also many people on here have used Urethane control arms bushings for the front so why not use them on the rear.
this is my idea for the setup (hope i dont offend anyone just bouncing around some ideas)
All arms replace with tube steel, measured and cut to specific length
All bushings replaced with poly-urethane instead of rubber.
and use all N-body performance mods (like Lenko said) and match them to the front with Jbody performance mods (shocks and springs)
I plan on trying to do this and using the camaro front brake swap and alum. control arms. got all off of a 99 Alero. seems that car has all the parts needed for all 3 swaps.
CTS and Lenko thanks for all the information for this swap. nice to rest on the shoulders of genius (all i have to do is read now!)
Everyone let me know what you think. I will be checking this frequently to see everyone's opinion, bad and good.
Koop
I've been wanting to do the same thing. I've looked at the W-body rear parts, and a few are tube steel, adjustable, and the same length (or close enough to make work)..... the problem I've run into is finding bushings.
If someone can point me in the direction of some bushings, I'd probably have my IRS on this weekend.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
There is a site that can make any urethane bushing for any need and any amount.
search google i will try to get the site for you.
Try prothane.com
Another thing is the Lexus ES300 using are bar thats threaded at both sides and connected with a threaded collar so you can adjust toe on the rear of the vehicle. Might be better off for getting the alignment correct.
Also the ES has a smaller bushing housing (or whatever you call it)
Using something like a GX is bigger so you could have to cut, grind, and weld, so it bolts up right.
for me it makes sense to run lexus parts since i can get them. makes things easier for me.
I read but i have been reading for a while now and im still at the dealer at 11 oclock and havent ate.
The basic idea was all Nbody Rear ? no using J parts?
I am going to have to write a spec sheet about where i got all my parts and from what cars with Vin Numbers. lol
good reference tool
koop
I hate to nag, but John Lenko, Any chance of getting those pics posted somewhere? All your pics are red Xs. I think you said your ISP was having problems, and your pics are all hosted from your computer. Just curious.
And C.T.S. Any progress on your How-To? I read thru the whole post here but it'd just be nice to have a tried and true clear concise how to, Like your draft. Awesome work btw on that. And for the front swap as well.
Snap to it!!!
Just kidding of course. But seriously it'd be super
Thanks
Also I am not trying to be demanding at ALL. I'd sure appreciate anything you guys could do though
Thanks!
Sorry, we're not ignoring you. I just haven't had time to work on anything... I'll try my best to write some stuff up tomorrow morning. It's a project long overdue for some attention anyway.
this may have been ask and may have been answered if so just to read more irs cool but will ths work on 2nd gens and what is different
adam green wrote:this may have been ask and may have been answered if so just to read more irs cool but will ths work on 2nd gens and what is different
I'm a dumb ass i cant type. what i was trying to say is will this work the 2nd gens and if so what is different and the same and i have read up to page 10 going to read the rest but i just haven't got there there is a all to read.
