Neon disc swap how to - Page 21 - Suspension and Brake Forum
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James, yup I found those pics
Also, I just pulled some 94 eagle Talon calipers off at the yard.. My 7/16-20 screws fit in there fine.. I can use those right? I mean physically they should be the same as the Neon ones right?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Does anybody check this thread anymore?
Btw, is this still a must that we space out the rotors?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Quote:
Does anybody check this thread anymore?
yeah I do
Quote:
Btw, is this still a must that we space out the rotors?
as fas as I know thats a yes, I just got some 1/2" washers from Home Despot, works like a charm.
I did not mean to say Eagle talon calipers, lol.. Anyway, im 90 percent done with this swap.. Waiting on rotors and shoes..
Thanks cinny, so just 1 washer on each lug right?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
URGENT
Ok, seriously for the ebrack actuator.. How in the hell are you supposed to pull that spring back to put it on? Thats what the vid says.. My spring is too stiff to move back to put this on. Why does it look so easy in the video?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
don't try to push the spring, use an allen key through the hole and pull on the cable you will get enough room to put the actuator in.
...and yeah one washer per stud
The hole on the caliper bracket where the cable goes through? What does the allen key attach to while im pulling the cable?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
on the end of the cable there should be a metal "loop" once the cable in inside the bracket put the allen key through the "loop" and pull the spring will separate from the end piece and you can put the actuator on. then release the pressure and remove the allen key, finish putting together the e-brake assembly.
I guess that way works too. I real just pulled on the cable and slapped the actuators in there, no fuss. The spacers are only required IF AND ONLY IF the rotor rubs on the backing plate. IF you can put the rotors on and tighten the wheel down without it rubbing on the backing plate then you dont need any washers.
Joshua Dearman wrote:I guess that way works too. I real just pulled on the cable and slapped the actuators in there, no fuss. The spacers are only required IF AND ONLY IF the rotor rubs on the backing plate. IF you can put the rotors on and tighten the wheel down without it rubbing on the backing plate then you dont need any washers.
I got the idea from that little tool for putting the drum springs back on, only that tool was too much of a hook so I used the allen key as my screwdriver was too large to fit.
let us know how ya make up Whitecavy
Thanks, that allen key trick was a pretty good one.. Got the actuators on.. But damn, now im stuck on that top spring for the shoes, kinda difficult with little ol needle noses lol.. Bout to order me a pizza to gather more strenght, lol I have none left.. Ill keep ya updated.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
For you guys with 03+ cavi's, I cut the springs and got that to fit in the back plate nicely, however this makes the cables too long to tighten them up. I was just trying to figure out a way to make the existing cables to work. I don't have any way to shorten the cables now, so I am just going to buy cables for an older cavy.
other then cutting and shorting by replacing the end, I dont think there is a way.
Quick question, my ebrake light is on when I start the car.. I have everything assembled up on jack stands minus the rotors.. Could my ebrake cable on one of my wheels not be pulled to the 'back' of the car all the way.? Thats the only thing I can think of.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
the ebrake engagement is only measured at the handle, regardless of where the ebrake cables are. so you've got a prob somewhere else.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Ahhh crap, thats weird,, Light Wasn't on before the swap.. Thx.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Did you plug in all the wheel sensors? (the two you removed when fiddling with the bracket and wheel bearings?) For me, no wheel bearing measurement throws the ABS light, but for you it might be diff.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Oh my goodness, I feel like the biggest retard right now lol.. My drivers side plug wasnt plugged into the bearing
Thanks man lol.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
i'm going to be assembling my ebrake this weekend, i cant wait
Also, to those, make sure the washers you use to space out the rotor are all the same thickness, i had one side with one that wasnt perfect and the friggin wheel wobbles all over the place (i have since replaced it)
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
5-spd
has anybody intergrated the neon parkbrake cables to the cavs' equalizer?
Most everybody just uses the cavi cables......I havn't heard of anybody mixing and matching cables yet I dont think.
I used Neon cables with a Neon equalizer.
So spent the whole afternoon working on the ebrake, and have some concerns
after watching josh's video, it doesnt seem to work properly putting the little arm that actuates the pads on the cable further down pushed up against teh spring/cable. i coudlnt do it, the spring was way to taut and the engagement for the ebrake would have been way too early, as the difference in the acutal cavalier end and where that is would cause issues IMO
so i modified the arm, the end to be specific, removed the U and managed to get the cable to stay on there without any issues.
did i do that correctly? did i miss somthing from josh's video? i was still having some problems tightening up the bearing, there's no room in there to tighten everything up. Any body have a pic of what their ebrake looks like? i'm not reaind through 21 pages again lol.
i also sourced pads/hardware from an older intrepid, seems they were exactly the same to the neon rears.
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
5-spd
I have a question also. Apparently the fittings i got with my kit are the wrong ones because they are not working at all with my ss lines and my calipers. I'm picking up two 3' union fittings from a performance shop tommorrow to hook up my ss lines to my stock cavi lines. Now I need to find out what size threads are in the caliper to determine what union fitting I need for them? They are 97 neon calipers. The guy at the shop said they are most likely metric. They dont stock metric size fittings there thats why he said to find out what size I need and he can order them. Some of the fittings he tried would screw into the caliper, but it would be a little sloppy. Please help me out, I'm so close to getting these things on!
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