2.3 Oil pump swap with pictures - Performance Forum

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2.3 Oil pump swap with pictures
Monday, April 02, 2007 3:21 PM
EDIT: 08/2012 --- Here is a good write up with photos on how to make the oil pan - http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=478382&t=478382

Ok, I am getting about 3 PM's a week on how to do this swap and I thought I would post all the info up on here. I did not write this stuff, but I read over it and it is all accurate. There are two different methods, but they are basically exactly the same, and I am sure that almost anyone can do the swap. There are pro's and con's for the swap, but this is not a flame thread, just for infomational purposes, so if you are interested and have made up your mind that this swap is for you, then read on, if not, you might as well be on your way.

I am not taking credit for the pics or the write ups, but they were sent to me, If you are the originator PM me and we will get your name added.

for another 6 page write up, please see this link: http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=329512&t=329512&p=1

Instruction set 1

Here is the how to for doing the 2.3 oil pump conversion, so that hopefully all those who search from hereon will find something solid.
The how to comes from Mantapart (thanks Tim) and it seems to work.

Parts Needed

2.3L Pump:
Crank Gear for the pump:
Windage Tray: 22536409
Baffle Stud: 22542521 x2
Baffle Bolt: 22540299 x2
Oil Pick Assembly: 22539133
Brace: 24570677
Bolt To Screen: 11516802 x2
Nut For Brace: 22535081 x2
Bolt Flange Head: 11516061 x2
Oil Pump Bolts To Block: 14050422 x2
Locator Pins For Pump: 22531530 x2



2.4 TC Crankshaft Modifications (Replacing the oil pump drive gears)

The 2.4L crank drive gear must be carefully heated and pressed or tapped off the crank. Be careful not to damage the crank surfaces or apply a lot of heat to the crank. The new oil pump drive gear should be heated and pressed back onto the crank. Use a brass hammer only if needed so you do not damage the teeth.

2.4L TC Block Modifications (These need to be done by a qualified machinist)

The oil passages to the pump must be re-machined to match the 2.3L pump. This operation must be done with the engine apart since it will require thorough cleaning when finished. Make a template from the right side of the oil pump that includes the bolt holes, oil passage and dowel pin holes. Lay it over the bolt hole on the block and carefully center and indicate the large oil hole center. This hole must be started and then drilled at an angle to intersect the horizontal oil passage that runs below it on the block. If you look from the back side of the block you will see where the passage pipe plug comes out. Draw a line on center with it and the hole center punch you have indicated and that is the angle the hole must be drilled. Drill the hole small and then increase drill sizes up to 9/16. You will break through the casting and then drill into the oil passage casting. Make sure the final drill with the 9/16 bit is done slowly and smoothly, since you have to install the 2x9/16 sleeve afterwards. Cool the sleeve and coat it with sealant. Gently tap it into the hole until it is flush with the block deck. Remove the oil galley plug to clean the passage and make sure the sleeve does not protrude into the oil passage bore.

Mount the pump up to the block and square it with the back of the block and snug it down gently. Take a small center punch and indicate the right side dowel pin hole into the block. Remove the pump and drill the hole to size #A machinist bit about 5/16 deep and then tap the dowel pin into the hole. Block the existing oil holes on the bottom of the 2.4L block: You must block the passages on the #3 and #4 main bosses on the bottom of the block, also. The larger angled hole can be tapped to a 3/8NPT (May require re-drilling to 37/64) Remove the small round sleeve next to the hole first. And the smaller hole on the #3 boss needs to be drilled to a #R Machinist drill and tapped to 1/8NPT. The best is to use flush Allen pipe plugs and coat them with pipe sealant.

Install the pump on studs on #4 main bosses. A 14mm plug or short bolt can be installed in the other hole on the #3 boss. The sheet metal oil pickup holes will need to be slotted or you can carefully braze 2 small washers on it to line up with the studs that are installed on the #4 boss holes.

Fit the windage tray up you will have to bend the left side up some to clear the thicker oil pan flange rail on the block. You will also have to enlarge the two holes at the studs to fit onto them. You will then have to indicate and drill two new holes for the windage tray front on the #2 boss flange area also. We suggest either a 3/8-16 coarse or 10mm x 1.5 thread bolts here, about (20mm) long.

2.3L Pump Modifications (The pump comes supplied with all other mounting hardware, etc)

The bottom boss on the oil pump must be ground down to clear the bottom of the 2.4 oil pan and the oil pickup may have to be moved up some to make proper clearance with the bottom of the pan. Make some trial fits with the pan and pump with the old oil pan gasket on the block to ensure proper fit. Some pans may require grinding and/or welding (aluminum) on the pan also for clearance. Make sure the pickup is not flat against the bottom of the pan.



Instruction set 2

Lol, so who thinks that this is easy, raise their hand??
Well I don't think so.
First off, thanks to Todd for all the instructions to how to do this, but let me write on it.

Well first off you have to get a 2.3L oil pump, Vin A, D OR 3 they are all the same.
What I did is I found a single cam 2.3L yanked a pump off it and used it as a practice pump, so that way all the shavings that you get in it, who cares.

I took, a oil pump, the bracket that holds the pick up tube, the pick up tube, windage tray and all the bolts and stuff and went to work.
The pump WILL mount over the #5 main cap and ain't got to worry about that, but it also has a little dowel pins that have to be put in the block.
Little ones.
I have to check the pictures on which hole has to be plugged off, but if I remember correctly, it is a big feed hole under or about the #4 main cap (depends on how you are looking at it) and 2 holes above and below the #3 main cap. (have to be pluged off).
Now weather you weld those shut or tep them or whatever, they cannot have any oil going through them.
I welded the #4, and tapped the #3 holes.

Now what you have to drill is a new feed hole that goes through #5 main cap and not the #4.
You put some kind of goo or something on the bottom of the pump and place it and screw it down so that way it will mark where you have to drill.
and drill it down, and in.
This is where it becomes tricky, there is a oil hole that goes from the oil filter to the #4 that is the original one that you are plugging off, and you have to find it and see what I am talking about and then make another feed hole.
There is a pipe plug right by your rear main seal, unscrew it and you can see the oil filter neck throught it.
Drill down and then through the edge of the #5 main cap wall so that way you can meet with the main passage.
Then you have to plug it off so that oil doesn't drain out of it before it reaches the pump.
It is hard to explain, but I have the pictures to show what I am talking about.

Then you are almost done.
Drill holes and tep them above and under #2 main cap, those and #4's you are going to use for the windage tray.
and if you see how the pick up tube is mounted orriginally, on the 2.3's you will see that for #4 you are going to need studs and a couple of nuts for each 1st to hold the windage tray to the block and then to hold the bracket for the windage tray.

Windage needs to be modified slightly to fit.
Pan needs to be cut, the bottom of it and the tranny side and a coupl of ridges shaved off inside. All of the bolts I used blue loctite on them, so that they don't come off, and that is about it.
One more thing you are going to have to take the sprocket of the crank and press the gear on it.
I got the part # for the gear. If yall need it.
Also the oil pump may need to be shimmed, be careful.

I took the block with the pump on it to the machine shop and told the guy I need these holes welded and I need this oil pan to fit on this block with this pump, so cut it, weld it , do whatever you need to, but make sure it fits, and it cost me about $175 for it.


So who STILL wanna do this?????????? lol
If someone wanna post the pics. here I will send them so that you can post them.
I would balance the crank after that because the weight of the sprocket and the gear might differ and it WILL throw the crank off BALANCE.



See if any of these help...

Gary


Picture time

























































Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Friday, August 03, 2012 9:35 PM

HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED


Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Monday, April 02, 2007 4:06 PM
nicely done.



FU Tuning



Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Monday, April 02, 2007 6:20 PM
Most excellent and detailed please tell me this is a sticky.



2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Monday, April 02, 2007 9:26 PM
so.... how do you do the 2.3 oil pump swap??

lol j/k looks good nice write up




Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Tuesday, April 03, 2007 5:29 AM
Wow that is an Awesome write up!


-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com

Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Tuesday, April 03, 2007 6:07 AM
Nice. Yeah those pics are from John317(Gary the old guy) <<Screename. Could be a future project for me.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Tuesday, April 03, 2007 6:47 AM
bump...aaand a sticky, a great help. can't wait to do it, should be fun


Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Wednesday, April 04, 2007 2:30 AM
STICK IT. STICK IT LONG, STICK IT HARD.

You saved everyone a whole lotta trouble. Thanks man.






now DIE!
Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Wednesday, April 04, 2007 2:43 AM
The second set of instructions is how my current block was done by Todd Miller (not T2), and how I will be attempting to do my replacement block for rebuild.



Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Saturday, April 07, 2007 8:03 AM
this is great! ima do it myself. I think im ready!
Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Saturday, April 07, 2007 11:32 AM
hey what up guys. im in the prosees of doing this and i just dont understand one thing. i have the pump mounted and i have the holes drilled for the passages but which holes do i have to plug in? i need t see a pic because of course just like the drilling of the passages trying to explain it is hard so if someone has the pics it would be great. thanks

Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Saturday, April 07, 2007 1:01 PM
oh man, you will like what I have done with this picture, you can either tap/plug them, or get them professionally welded.. which ever, just make sure you use some red lock tite.






HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Saturday, April 07, 2007 4:57 PM
those are awsome pics....... even the third time around


It'll get stickied.....




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
RACER X - '78 Opel Kadett W41 Swap

Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Thursday, April 12, 2007 5:45 PM
more info:

Red circles indicate oil feed holes that must be plugged.
Green circles indicate holes that must be drilled and tapped for the windage tray bolts.
Yellow circles are holes that must be drilled for the oil pump locator dowels.
Purple circle is where the new oil feed hole must be drilled for the 2.3L pump.

1. Is already drilled and tapped, but for a metric bolt. The thread is nearly identical for a 1/4"-18 NPT plug. Just Loctite the plug, and screw it in tight.
2. Is already drilled, but must be re-drilled to a letter "R" drill bit, and then tapped for a 1/8"-27 NPT plug.
3. Is already drilled, but must be re-drilled to a 37/64" drill bit, and then tapped for a 3/8"-18 NPT plug.
4. The two #4's across from each other on the left end of the pic, I drilled to 5/16" and then tapped for a 3/8"-24 bolt, and used a flange head bolt.
The other #4 on the right side of the pic, I drilled to 11/32" and then tapped for a M10x1.5 stud. That way it matched the hole right below #3, which is M10x1.5, and is already in the right place. I used studs here because I have to use a nut to hold down the windage tray, then the oil pump screen bracket sits on top of the nut, and another nuts then holds down the bracket.
5.These holes must be drilled for the oil pump locator dowels. I believe they are 7/32". Don't quote me on that.
6. This hole must be drilled for the new oil pump feed hole.







this shows the where you tap and plug everything






Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Friday, April 13, 2007 10:22 PM

Absolutely great information.
This will be one of the mods I do when I do my engine rebuild.
Thanks go to the person that went through the trouble to chronicle this.
Thank you and thank you again.



Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!





Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Sunday, April 15, 2007 1:26 PM
ok, still a bit confused on this part. which set of instructinos should i use, option 1 or option 2? currently my block is down at the machine shop getting bored out and before they wash it and crap i'm going to do this, but people are saying drilling the block is a waste of time or is a bad way of doing it. down to basics, is this a pretty straight forward swap, easy for someone that knows hand tools?


Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Sunday, April 15, 2007 1:41 PM
you have to drill the block.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Sunday, April 15, 2007 1:56 PM
well from personal experience, which option did you choose ge_foecez22? instructions 1 or 2?


Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Sunday, April 15, 2007 2:44 PM
I used them as a reference. the instructions make it seem much more indepth than necassary to be honest.

-drill the connecting passage
-weld all holes shut (or plug)
-drill tap 2 holes for windage tray
-modify oilpan


super simple, super easy.


I have considered modifiing some oil pans and selling them, I see they go for 200USD with core return, or when I had a shop do it for me just under 200. what are you guys doing to get your pan modified?


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Sunday, April 15, 2007 8:04 PM
awesome, thanx for clearing that up "ge". oh and might i say, i'm rather impressed with ur 11psi set up that i saw a vid for on the other thread. 268 at the wheels is quite impressive especially without doing the 086 head swap. good job i say.


Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Sunday, April 15, 2007 8:07 PM
to clarify it was 280.7whp on the best run (9th or 10th run) with water/meth and the AFR's set in the safest spot, it is a total blast to drive.


The first run was lean and we hit 287.. but was not safe for the engine...


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED


Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Tuesday, May 01, 2007 1:39 PM
i have to bump this, it's outrageous that this isn't a sticky yet.....even more outrageous is the price of a modded oil pan


Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Tuesday, May 01, 2007 2:51 PM
i dont understand something... maybe im missing something, but why do you need the line up pins? dont the bolts hold the pump in the correct position?




Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Wednesday, May 02, 2007 6:44 AM
aaaand the final bump for good luck.....ouu, and if anyone wants to answer Z YAAAAA's question about the pins, please do because i'm wondering that myself.


Re: 2.3 Oil pump swap **sticky** with pictures
Wednesday, May 02, 2007 6:58 AM
Added security, and is the "proper way to do it."
Also the pins are there to line up everything correctly. The bolts should not be used to line up the pump, that is not the correct procedure to ensure proper gear mesh. You do not want the gears to have to much or to little backlash.





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