thedodgeguy informed me that I would have a heck of a time getting a dealer to even look at it, but it's the only idea he had for me. If there was someone who knew about this closer I would ask for help. If it really comes down to it I'd be willing to tow it to someone who knows more about this and pay to have it finished.

***I will NEVER swap a motor again. This hasn't been worth the effort put into it. Having the entire donor car would have made this a lot easier.***

I don't understand why the modis couldn't pull data...

Heard from one of the two dealers I contacted...

"We would be able to help you and your vehicle. Since you've already changed so much and we'll pretty much be going at it blind, we would need $400 down for diagnostics and legal purposes. Otherwise, have you switched out the PCM? Let us know what you'd like to do or if you have any more questions."

Response...

$400 down just to run the Diagnostic Systems Check? Ouch. Eh, if that's what it takes. The $400 has little to do with legal purposes though...just guaranteed money right? I have swapped out the 2.4 PCM with a 2002 Ecotec PCM that it was running with prior to pulling the engine out. the 2002 had an automatic transmission but from what I can tell is the car would just throw codes related to the nonexistent transmission since the car is a manual.

Tried to read thru all the other posts (and skip over the garbage not pertaining to the post) from the begining......

So engine is in, and all the vital sensors are hooked up? ICM, CPS, TPS, IAC, Injectors?

Engine Cranks, but doesnt fire? It has fuel pressure but no spark and injectors dont fire?

Hooked up a scan tool and it doesnt connect to the ECM?


I have a feeling if you take it to the dealer, first thing they will "sell you" is that your PCM is shot, and make you buy a new one. Then once it still doesnt run, they'll start taking shots in the dark at sensors, probably ICM then Crank.....

I dont have my '02 Cavalier Service manuals at the house (they are at a buddy's shop, where we're putting a '02 Eco into a 1930's Hupmobile, using the stock engine wire harness and ECM), so I cant consult them for further info, but I'm almost positive that if it cranks, you can get it running.




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

So engine is in, and all the vital sensors are hooked up? ICM, CPS, TPS, IAC, Injectors? Yes
Engine Cranks, but doesnt fire? It has fuel pressure but no spark and injectors dont fire? Yes
Hooked up a scan tool and it doesnt connect to the ECM? Connects, but will not read.

So since the other option is paying the dealer $400 before they look at it...What scan tool should I buy? Apparently not the Modus since it won't work even though others have been able to use the,

Maybe towing it there so they can just scan the thing and let me know if the CPS is working would be better?

From dealer...

Zach, when running a diagnostic test, there could be many codes related to many different items. Since an engine was swapped out, we have no idea how long this would take us to figure out what was wrong. The $400 is basically a diagnostic charge to save ourselve if what we find takes longer than the usual hour. Now if we get said vehicle in and figure it out right away, I would not charge you the full amount. The 400$ figure is just a starting estimate with out really looking at anything.

If you want a diagnotics test with just codes, and to test cranksfat position sensor, you would be looking at 64.95$.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Separate question...Will I have to have the dealer match the Eco ECU to my VIN so I don't have to use more credits on HPT? Will they need to match it so when I go for emissions testing? Thought I read on here that if you don't do this and go through emissions their computer will think it's testing a different car and you will fail.

With all the prob might as well buy a DSM..


99z for 2015.. I'm back bitches

Oddly I would have more people around here that would be able to help out since more people are messing with DSMs than Cavs/Fires.

Doesn't make sense to me that you don't have any power to the injectors with the key on. How are you testing this?





i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick

you are absolutely insane to ask a dealer for help.

there is something stupid amiss here, we just can't figure it out.


The crank sensor is in a spot above the starter because VR sensors rarely, if ever, go bad.

the theft system still sounds like its active to me...

I apologize for asking this, but please just give me a list of the issues with the car
then give me another list of things you're sure are done 100% right
and then a third list of what COULD be wrong


a sensor plugged into the wrong spot could be making a world of difference.

but again... the theft system... you have fuel pressure, but the injectors are not firing, and no spark (sounds like theft system to me)

how did you wire the engine up?

this connector is the duty-cycle lead to the alternator. Its in the a/c section of the wiring harness because the pressure sensor for the a/c is near the alternator.

I haven't gave the car to the dealer yet but have it lined up as an option. It does definitely sound like a theft system to me too but I was told that the Passlock system cuts the fuel injectors and not spark. Referenced discussion here. I wired the engine up by starting with the throttle body first and then working my way back around the driver's side of the car and then around to the passenger side.

Issues with car:
1. No Spark
2. No Fuel Signal (Checked with stethoscope with a metal rod on it. Tried it on a running car first so I knew what to listen for. Hard to know for sure with the car trying to start.)
3. There is a red/green length of wire with a 2 port connector not plugged in. (same part of harness at CPS)
4. Need to solder on a new o2 sensor connector. Old one was cut off for some reason. Was told nothing was cut off when I picked it up.

What was done right for sure:
1. Engine and trans installed. (Surprised neither is seized up)
2. Body/Engine harness connection
3. Throttle body portion of harness
4. Fuel Pressure good

What could be wrong:
1. ICM not getting power
2. Bad PCM
3. Jumped timing
4. Theft system

On your injectors there should be a wire on each of them that are the same color. You should have power to these wires, do you have a test light or volt meter? Test it.


- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs

Two connectors that seem to have no where to go...

This one comes off the part that has the ICM connector on the end.


On the end of the CPS portion of harness.


Just to note: The ground in the background of the last pic was connected when trying to start the car. It was undone to be able to solder an o2 sensor connector back onto the harness. Also checked for power at the injectors and there indeed was power at all injectors.

Forgot to mention but a new o2 sensor connector soldered back in place. Not that it will effect the car starting, but I thought I'd mention it.

the red/green connector is totally not on the end of the CPS portion of the harness. Not sure what made me think that. It branches off of that part of the harness, but it's between the CPS sensor and the ICM portion. Also the other one I have up there is purple/yellow as far as wires go.

The battery cables were part of the 2.4 wire harness, but when the motor was put in cables from a Plymouth Breeze were used. Do the battery cables for an Eco powered J have other wires than just those cables on them? They are separate from the engine harness right? I wasn't around for the tear down and have been wishing I was from the start of this whole mess.

MikeZ is coming from Chicago to give me a hand. He's bringing a different harness and PCM. He's swapped 2 of these into his cars so hopefully when he leaves the car will run. Then it will need a tune but not until the exhaust is done first. Can't tune without wide band...not accurately anyway.

Good luck! Hope he can help, and doesn't leave till it runs!




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

^, agreed, good luck guys!

I thought I'd take a couple minutes to say...Mike is the man! After Jeff arrived we gave Mike a call to see where he was. He told us he'd be there in about 30 minutes and to rip the old harness/ECU out. Once Mike got here we threw the new stuff at the car and did the relearn. First step of doing the relearn is, "Try to start the car. Let key go to accessory position". Upon doing this the engine actually tried to start, which it hadn't done up to this point. After the relearn Mike started it up but had to give it gas to get it going. Needs a new idle air control valve which we can pick up tomorrow from Advance Auto Parts.

(Elapsed time from Mike's arrival...1 hour)

Also found out that the AEM intake won't work thanks to the 2.4 HO Intake Manifold. To solve this issue we first put the AEM on Mike's Z. Then we swapped out the rubber elbow from Jeff's Z for an aluminum one that was on Mike's but wouldn't work on mine. After all this we still couldn't get it to work so I'll get to run some "dryer vent" for my intake till I can find a better solution. Time to search JBO.

Only other thing that needs to happen is putting on the tie rod end cover that Scott gave me. Not really looking forward to trying to pry the control arm down to do so. Also have to get the sway bar end links in. After that it will be drivable, even though it needs exhaust work and a tune.

Great! Glad to see its almost on the ground and rolling!

My temp solution. It'll be good enough for now, but someone has to have a real intake of this thing.

While your tinkering and getting it ready to roll around, you could relocate the ecu to the spot below the radio and center console. Easy to do, just undo the ECU's connectors, remove ti fromt eh ecu mount, re-route the wiring into the cab through the rubber wire grommet, and over to the console. You may need to make the grommet a bit bigger with a sharp knife or razor, then reconnect the ecu once its in place under the console. <- thats the trickiest part really, reattaching the connectors while its under there. 20-30 minutes of work at most to clean up the bay a lot and you don't have that giant metal bracket on the strut tower anymore.