LD9 TVS Build - Page 3 - Boost Forum
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watching...
Us eco guys do not have a plug for the MAP sensor on the blower, so if anyone in running it it is just to plug the hole. I would just use it as a plug and run another MAP after the blower to read boost pressures.
Error: Sig not found.
Make sure the crank pulley clears the billet timing cover!
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Thanks Mike but I might be parting with the cam gear kit, depends on the outcome of the pistons.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
that timing cover is nasty. if I only had a shop full of equipment....
I think I actually found a couple videos of that TVS cavi
Now that I am going boosted I have been reading up on the PCV system and how to keep it working properly with boost. What I'm considering going with is:
But what I'm confused about is why the red section is needed. The check valve in the red line makes it only work when the manifold is in vacuum but the green is always in vacuum so even if your in boost so I am failing to see why two sources are needed especially when one only works part time. I understand there is a port in the stock manifold that goes directly into the #3 port and the HO manifold blocks it but what I don't understand is why you need two ports. Someone said its because of different conditions between idle and WOT or something but it still doesn't make sense to me why we need both. I have posted this in the PCV thread so we can keep the discussion there for future searchers.
On another notes I hope to hear back from the machine shop about shaving my pistons tomorrow. Progress will be kinda slow until the motor is finished in 1-2 months. Should be ordering fuel injectors and the racetronix fuel pump w/wiring harness soon. And my track lites are getting Hankook V12 evo rubber and going on the car tomorrow, can't wait, my first set of aftermarket rims!
PSN ID: Phatchance249
jmarks82 wrote:I will sell you my hahn intercooler off my cobalt!
You have a PM. I would be interested in the intercooler if Shawn does not want it and the price is right
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
Shawn - there are supposed to be two check valves... somebody has deleted it from the original photo. See below.
Ideally with the edited image I'd put a check valve on the green line to shut it off out of boosted conditions.
Remember that the manifold has more vacuum at idle than the turbo intake will... and under boost the manifold will be shut off and you will need a vacuum source at WOT - that pressure has to go somewhere. Hence 2 sides.
The GMSC system works exactly the same using a bypass valve to do this work...
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Chris, I didn't know the GMSC was like that, I haven't seen one in person so I didn't know. I have decided to wait and see what the tuning shop says when I get closer to install.
On another note I have been wondering if I should upgrade from my Bully stage 3 to a stage 4. Website says "The Pressure plate and Puck style disc combination for the stage 3 has an increase in torque capacity of 100%". Since I'm shooting for 300-350whp I should be ok but close to its max right? The place I bought my stage3 from said they can't take the return, even as an exchange, because its been too long but will give me wholesale pricing on a stage 4. Comments?
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Parts Update!
The long block I bought from Fetter came with 9:1 JE Pistons but with my longer rods they needed to be cut down to fit. Had the machine shop take 0.090 off and was pleasantly surprised when the center didn't loose any material. Basically ends up being a flat top piston so should be just under 10:1 CR, also going with a .074 cometic head gasket to drop it down slightly. Next week taking them to get a thermal barrier coating on top and ant-friction coating on the skirts.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Sweet man. If I EVER finish my build I want to use some 2.3l Rods.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
those je's must have more of a dish than my wiseco's had because mine were cut completely across and are all the way flat. i think like .015? was taken off of the very centers of mine... i have it written down somewhere, ill have to look.
at this point looking back i wish i would have thought ahead to leave the centers up a bit for more compression...
but, oh well. with these cut wisecos and ti rods it'll be one of the absolute lightest piston/rod combo's to have every graced a quad family engine. our's should rev to the moon and get there very quickly doing so lol
Come join us over on the Olds Quad 4 and Twin Cam Facebook group!
Since the pistons worked out so well I might be keeping the adjustable cam gear set. Then things will be really light! Also getting tempted to tune and dyno the motor NA to see what it makes.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
I spoke with the machine shop about a month ago and he was 1-2 months from "getting" to my motor so it shouldn't be long before we see the rods/pistons in a motor along with the Crower valve springs. If everything works out the earliest I see getting the motor in the car and running will be the second-third week in July while I am out of town.
Parts to buy list:
Cometic head gasket - ordering in the next few days
Injector Dynamics fuel injectors - waiting to see if GP goes through
Racetronix Fuel pump w/harness
AFPR
Intercooler
Oil catch can
Also looking into a bigger TB, I have a 60mm 2.3L TB right now, but not sure how much a diff it makes on a supercharged application since the boosted air isn't going through it like a turbo setup, thoughts?
PSN ID: Phatchance249
As for the TB. I know I saw a nice difference going from a 57mm to a 59/60mm. Main difference being how the car drives in normal driving, soo much smoother. Also required more fuel in the tune.
FU Tuning
I forgot to add I'm thinking of going to a 70mm Vortec or LS1 TB.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
For a TB update I now have a 60mm HO TB and a 70mm Vortec TB, not sure which one will be used.
I dropped the pistons and header off at the coaters to do their magic today, should have them back in about 2 weeks. All thats left is to hear back from the machinist about bore size and bearing size so I can place a Clevite order.
On another note I am looking into ways to make a custom tennis ball shifter knob. Found some casting resin's online that will cure in depths over the 2" ID of a tennis ball. If anyone has used something like that please let me know. I don't really care about UV properties or color because its going to be inside a tennis ball. Also, anyone know what thread the Fidenza short shifter has?
Other goodies that showed up today:
HG is 0.075" thick
PSN ID: Phatchance249
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:Addicted to meth wrote:As for the TB. I know I saw a nice difference going from a 57mm to a 59/60mm. Main difference being how the car drives in normal driving, soo much smoother. Also required more fuel in the tune.
finally you see the light!
For now. The dyno will be the one that decides which is used.
FU Tuning
Subscribed
99z for 2015.. I'm back bitches
Another parts update:
Got the pistons and header back from the coaters. Pistons have a ceramic coating designed for boosted applications on the top and an anti-friction coating on the skirts.
The header has a ceramic 2000 deg coating.
Waiting to hear back from the machinist on piston ring and bearing size so I can get those ordered and to the machinist for final assembly. However it might not be going into the car until the fall because of budget and the shop's busy schedule. Hopefully I'll get that hashed out with the shop in the next few weeks.
Since there hasn't been any interest in my Bully stage 3 clutch it looks like I am stuck with it and hoping it holds my 300+ whp goal. Its what I get for changing build plans after something like that was bought.
As always comments and concerns welcome.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Also been thinking a lot about the pulley and psi. I'm pretty sure the charger I bought has the stock 3.15" pulley (20psi) and I am thinking of going 3.5" (15psi) for break in and trouble shooting. Will the larger displacement of my motor and vastly different intake system compared to the LSJ make a significant difference in boost?
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Need to look at rotor speed to determine how much CFM it will be moving... then factor in resistance and size of the engine it is going into... to say that X size pulley will make Y boost is kinda a ricer talking...
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
Should have your intercooler off the car and ready to ship at the end of the week!
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