So your car really does have the soul of a sports car? Take that mazda!


- Paul

good job on the car kardain, awesome progress.
now hurry up and post some numbers and track times!

Cool
Nice job

You know how much Hp would have on wheels ?


Sunfir3_El_Niño

I'm ballparking 185-187 at the wheels, 175 on the low end. This is with a stock engine as well.

Kardain -

Should you for some odd chance end up switching to the MS-II, I can pass you a tune. It's not perfect, but it'll get the car running pretty good and it'll get decent milage.

SHOoff wrote:Kardain -

Should you for some odd chance end up switching to the MS-II, I can pass you a tune. It's not perfect, but it'll get the car running pretty good and it'll get decent milage.

Much appreciated. Should it come down to MS, I'll let you know

In the meanwhile, not much on the update front... BCM came in the mail, need to get the sockets from the dealer (and hope they come with the pins). bled the clutch, need to chase down a coolant leak and put the axles in.

started wiring in the plug for the new gauges while I source some 1/8" plexi. Rat shack didn't have 12 pin male molex connectors (only female), so settled with a 9 pin. Have to get a 3 pin (maybe 4) later.

the 9 pins done so far:
Fuel level, rt turn, lt turn, Hi beam indicator, brake lever, Check for engine light, speed, tach, water temp. I'm foregoing alot of the idiot lights (ABS, SRS, seatbelts, low coolant, oil level, etc.)

need to run power, ground, and illumination (meaning not only do I need the molex, but 3 small distro blocks as well. Also have to pick up some extra 1/2w resistors for the LED indicators.



Also need to run the tach feed wire.

As for the LED's overall brightness, had a novel idea.... paint. A 40k resistor didn't do it. Still too overpowering at night.

these are bright enough to cut through a couple coats of gloss black paint, and end up matching the gauges. Painted the holders as well



I can't get a good shot, but the LED's have a "halo" effect with a greatly diffused end so it don't burn my eyes at night.

2x 5mm Green LED's for turn
1x 5mm Blue LED for highs
1x 5mm Red LED for brake
1x 3mm Amber (actual amber, not the "yellow" that gets passed off as amber) for MIL.

So, I had a scrap sheet of T3 aircraft grade aluminum (Boeing surplus FTW)

still need another coat of paint and some trimming so the tach - the left big gauge - sits flush (changed my mind on the black backing... this matches the shift knob I have)

I love what you're doing.

DAMN! Someone needs to make me some gauges!

Thats going to look awsome!




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

2 hours later:





the odd angle gives it the appearance they aren't lined up

Still need to wire in the molex and cut some of the dash out for clearance.

Brian... its not too bad, just time consuming if you don't have the proper tools (ie me cutting it out with a grinder )

use the black surround as a template, the pin on the upper and the screw hole on the bottom line up with each other at the vertical center, then its just a matter of measuring and drilling

Kardain wrote:...In the meanwhile, not much on the update front... BCM came in the mail, need to get the sockets from the dealer (and hope they come with the pins). bled the clutch, need to chase down a coolant leak and put the axles in.

started wiring in the plug for the new gauges while I source some 1/8" plexi. Rat shack didn't have 12 pin male molex connectors (only female), so settled with a 9 pin. Have to get a 3 pin (maybe 4) later.

the 9 pins done so far:
Fuel level, rt turn, lt turn, Hi beam indicator, brake lever, Check for engine light, speed, tach, water temp. I'm foregoing alot of the idiot lights (ABS, SRS, seatbelts, low coolant, oil level, etc.)

need to run power, ground, and illumination (meaning not only do I need the molex, but 3 small distro blocks as well. Also have to pick up some extra 1/2w resistors for the LED indicators...

check out Mouser Electronics. They carry most Delphi (factory GM) connectors, pins, etc. You can start by selecting the number of pins you need, and narrow it down from there. They list the male plug that mates to the factory cluster harness plug, but since it's a special order item, you have to buy 450 of them.

The cluster is looking good man. I'm just finishing wiring mine up. I also have to run a few cables through the firewall for it, since it takes a couple of specific sending units.

Dashpad isn't all the way down, I need to tie back the distro blocks in the back of the cluster

I want to thank SHOoff, Quiklilcav, john beers and joe for putting up with my asinine questions... everyone else for taking the time to follow the progress, my dad for giving me a hand here and there when I ran into a snag....

I did something wrong, cause what's to follow wasn't supposed to happen

I ghetto rigged up the BCM and, well....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjviLDndlzY

Nice!! W00t!! Time to get it all cleaned up (and not to mention, "rigged" properly) and take it for a spin.

Sounds like the idle is sitting a bit on the low side, which probably would be because the PCM hasn't been reflashed yet with higher idle points and such.

Still have some work to do, but I've been putting that off till I could get to this point.

need to fab the lower mount bracket, put the axles in, get some more temporary exhaust pipe, finish wiring in the BCM (probably going to move it to the trunk... I have a bunch of CAT5 cable I can use), calibrate the speedo, and really, short of a hood, that's about it

As far as the idle, started off at 700rpm, tossed a code (MAF not hooked up), then rev'd up, settled back at 900rpm or so

At least I know my MIL works properly now

i want....please..i got cheeeseburgers!

nice home slice you got my approval



In Loving Memory of Phil Martin December 14 2005
Alexis: Dustin, you're ghey, lol. I am better. I have tits, and tits rule all.

So, on Friday, I got the exhaust hooked up... She purrs nicely, aside from the oddball startup idle Haven't had a chance to get on the throttle since there's no lower mount bracket and I don't trust my rigged up one too well.





2.25" tied to the existing system

Also got the lower mount ready to be welded (blue tape FTW)



Gonna have my dad drop it off at a shop sometime this week since my work schedule doesn't really allow for it and I couldn't get to it last week...

In other news, not sure what's up, but I may have a wire crossed somewhere. Speedo is acting like a tach, I'm also getting a VSS code... checked the wiring, and that's good, checked the sensor output and that passes, more troubleshooting (yay). of course, this starts after I put the dash back together. Also, there's a very slow leak at the trans. I'm not wanting to pull it, so I get to check to see if all the side case bolts are tight. then again, I'm not really sure if its the trans or PS fluid...

Nice man. Feels good to actually start it and listen to it run for the first time, huh? Sounds just like mine did. I'm thinking these should idle a little smoother, but maybe I'm just used to hearing them through a quieter exhaust. I'm actually liking having it almost straight through exhaust, because it's helping me get things smoothed out, where I may not have noticed otherwise.

Good luck troubleshooting. It's a royal biatch. I have not exactly been having a great time with mine.

Congrats man. Cant wait to see this thing driving. I will have videos of the 3400 im justfinishing up running tonight. But it only runs 2 seconds at a time, damn VATS!!!

www.lt1wiring.net

or depending on what PCM you are using, you will need a BCM...

need the following pins hooked up:

Quote:

Here is what I show to hook up the passlock, they might be called a little different names but im sure they are the same.
All grand am stuff, ending is the circuit # (XXXX)
C1 plug
A8-Ignition 0 voltage, ppl, to 10a fuse hot in acc, on or start. goes to pin b9 left IP fuse block grand am (1600)
B8-battery pos voltage, brn , to 10a fuse hot in run, goes to rt ip fuse block grand am(341)

C2 plug
A6-security sensor low, blk, (passlock gnd) pin b of passlock cylinder(1835)
B6-security systen sensor signal, yel, (passlock signal) pin b of passlock cylinder(1836)
B9-ignition 3 voltage, pink, to 10a fuse hot in on or start, goes to underhood fuse block, C4plug, C3pin(439)

C3 plug
A10-Ground, blk/wht, rounded at the left side of the dash, ground # G202 (151)
A12-Battery positive voltage, org, 10a fuse hot all times, rt ip fuse block grand am(340)
B1-battery fuse voltage, org, 10a fuse hot all times left Ip fuse block ga(1540)
B2-class 2 serial, ppl, to computer data lines. (attach it any where in the data system)(1807)
B4-security system sensor supply voltage, wht, (passlock b+) to pin c of passlock cylinder(1459)

And the 3 connector part #'s
12084945 (gray)
12110088 (gray)
12110244 (pink)

Once I get HPT, I'll see if the Passlock disable works w/out the BCM.

looking good Rob... looking good.

that cluster is amazing.


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

its lookin great man. keep it up....thats gonna be a bad ass sleeper when youre done!