HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST???? - Exterior Forum

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HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Friday, May 05, 2006 11:28 AM
Ok, so there's been 954,545,235,765,345 posts about "How much would it cost to do this or that to my car at a shop" or "How much should I expect to pay?". Mostly, the same answers are given over and over again, from "Go get some estimates" to "do the work yourself and save money".

I for one, and am not alone on this, am growing tired of the same questions, with the same answers, and the answers cannot really be given over the internet, because there are so many determining factors as to what the cost will be.

Here's some basic guidelines and such:

1. Go to shops in your area and get estimates. No one on here can tell you what you can expect to pay really, and have it be a good estimate. If one gives an approximate cost on what they paid to get their work done, and the person making the post goes to a shop and gets ticked off because they were given a much higher estimate, it causes problems. There are many determining factors as to what cost you would expect to pay at a shop, being:

2. Different shops charge different rates. If you want a show quality paint job, expect to pay much more than someone who just wants “good" work. YOU DO get what you pay for. If you want to be cheap, you're going to get cheap work, and then complain about it later. So, if you want good reliable work, save up your money, and get an excellent quality paint job with a warranty. (Most reputable shops will warranty their work, except in cases of normal wear and tear,… if they won't stand behind their work, walk out, and go to another shop.

3. Rates vary by location. I'd imagine you'd get charged more for the work you want done in a place like New York City, LA, etc. than you would a small shop in a rural area.

4. The price varies on what you want done and the materials you're working with. If you go get a cheap fiberglass kit that doesn't fit for crap, you're going to pay more at the shop to make it fit better and look good. If you spend the extra money on a high quality kit/urethane kit, you're PROBABLY going to pay less, because there's less work needed to be done to get it to fit properly. If you want fancy paint (i.e. HOK, X-otic, chamelion and candee/kandy colors), that's going to cost more too.

5. The price could go up if the shop runs into unexpected problems. Any auto body/paint person will tell you that they've seen a car come in that didn't LOOK bad, but once they started tearing things apart, noticed many problems. An example would be this newer Grand Prix that came into one of the shops I was working at. It was whacked HARD in the passenger side fender. Upon initial inspection, it appeared it obviously needed a new fender, alignment, strut/shock, spring, (you know what whole assembly in there), rim and tire. However, we later noticed that it was hit so hard, it broke BOTH of the motor mounts, and cracked the transmission.

6. Ask a shop to see examples of their work. If you want a show quality paint job, or a very very good paint job, they should have examples of the work they've done. If you're concerned about it, and they can't produce any pictures/examples, go to a different shop.

7. ORANGE PEEL IN CLEAR IS NORMAL!!!! ANY new car you go look at WILL HAVE ORANGE PEEL!!! Orange peel does not mean it's a poor quality job. If you want no orange peel and want your clear to look like glass, you're going to have to pay extra. That requires extra clear, and a TON of wetsanding and buffing. (btw, orange peel is the texture of the clear, which resembles the texture of an orange, in case anyone doesn't know).

8. MORE COATS OF PAINT DOES NOT MEAN IT'S A BETTER PAINT JOB!!! I see people all the time going "oh yeah, well my car has 12 coats of paint and 18 coats of clear, etc, etc etc." In the older days of paint, from my understanding, lots of paint was a good thing. The paint used nowadays (the old style paint is now illegal to use for environmental reasons), anyway in the paint used nowadays, the more coats of paint, the WORSE it is! Think of a sheet of plastic. A very thin sheet of plastic will flex and bend a good bit before cracking and breaking. A thicker sheet of plastic, will be MUCH harder to flex, and when it finally does, it will crack and/or break, that's how your paint is. Paint thickness when applied is measured in what's called microns. The thicker the paint (i.e. the more microns) the higher probability of cracking and breaking and spidering. So the thicker the paint, the higher the probability of it going to crap in a shorter period of time.

9. If you have NO auto body/paint knowledge or training, (not to be rude) but DO NOT come on here and ask us very few auto body professionals to give you a step by step tutorial on the entire process. To do even just "good" work, you do need hands on and quite a bit time wise in training. We cannot teach you to be an auto body professional over the internet, it's just not possible. You have to be trained in what to look for, how to tell if your work is good, or what it still needs, what do you do if you get fisheyes? (those little spots that can appear in paint that look like fish's eyes), what about runs? What about dry spots? What if your paint is "lifting" (i.e. not sticking to the surface you're painting)? What's the proper way to prep? What grits of sand paper do you use for different applications? What's the proper way to sand? What's the right way to apply flake/metallics/pearls? What's the proper way to apply your clear? Clear, depending on the brand and type, needs to be applied in different ways. Some clears you have to lay on heavier, some not. How do you know if you're laying your clear on too light or too heavy? What do you do if you're clear is on too light or too heavy? How do you apply paints with metallics? Paints with metallics and pearls are applied slightly differently than paints without pearls or metallics. What if you run your basecoat? How long do you wait to wetsand and buff? What are the determining factors in what activators and such do you use? What do you need place wise to paint in and what can you get away with under different circumstances?? Under different circumstances and situations, what extra steps may be needed to prep the car for paint properly?

10. Auto body work and paint is NOT as easy and simple as you think. As you can see from just SOME of the questions I have listed in #9, a lot more goes into it than just slapping on some filler and sanding, or slapping on some primer and sanding, and painting, and throwing some paint in a gun and spraying.

11. I've seen people say they have some experience, but don't know where to get paint. A person with experience should know where to get paint, but if for some reason you're wanting to wing it, the best places to go is an auto body supply store. Where can you find one? The yellow pages and the internet, are your friend.

12. Changing the color of your car is going to be a good bit more expensive than keeping it the same color. When you change the color of your car, you need to paint the doorjams, under the hood, under the trunk, etc. and if you want a really want a good color change, pull the motor, interior, etc. So, depending on how far you want to go, and how high of quality you're looking for, your location, and the shop, the prices could vary greatly there too.

13. Custom work. Again, depending on where, what shop, how involved it is, how much time is involved, what you want done, etc. prices vary greatly, and none of us who have done this professionally can tell you what you'd be looking to pay.

Now, none of what I posted was meant to come off in a negative way. It's to be used as information as to just how many different factors go into the price of your body work and paint, and how many different things you need to be trained in what to look for when it comes to "doing it yourself". Call it a guide if you will (and PLEASE make this a sticky!)

I've seen "show quality" jobs (mind you with little to no body work involved, i.e. not 1,000 dents to be pulled, a very nice fitting kit, etc) range from, believe it or not 2k to over 8k. That's a huge difference in price.

So, your best bet for the most accurate of estimates, is to get up off your butt, and go to some shops in your area and ask around. Tell them what you're looking for, what you want done, if they warranty their work, ask to see examples, etc.

If you're cheap, and don't want to pay for good work, then expect cheap work. If you want excellent quality, save up your money and get it done right. Cutting corners and getting cheap work is only going to cost you more in the long run. If you find modding your car to be too expensive, I'd suggest finding a new hobby, or buy some beat up piece of junk and get some books on body work and paint, and start practicing on your own. OR, get an apprenticeship at a shop, or go to school for it.

I have no problem myself with someone who has been trying to learn themselves with an extra pointer or tip here and there, but it does irritate me when people think that body work and paint is just soooooo easy that a monkey can do it, and think that we professionals can just type some words on a screen and have you turn out an excellent job. Again, none of this is to be rude or anything near that, just informative information that I hope some people will find to be helpful.






Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Friday, May 05, 2006 11:32 AM
Or, you can go to F&S Customs out of Troy Missouri and get a great job done for a great price.



Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Friday, May 05, 2006 11:37 AM
So how much would purple flames for my orange Cavi cost me at a local shop Nikki.




Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.



Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Friday, May 05, 2006 11:38 AM
why's there a whole bunch of "you’re " in there

or is it just me that sees the ASCII and ANSI Characters?



Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Friday, May 05, 2006 11:43 AM
Yeah, I typed it up on Microsoft word, previewed, looked fine... posted... then the little funny mark thingys showed up. I'd edit it, but we don't have an edit button yet




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Friday, May 05, 2006 5:57 PM
seriously nikki, you know no one is going to read this. good job trying to minimize the useless posts made in here, but i think your efforts will be in vain.



Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Friday, May 05, 2006 7:16 PM
I gave it a once-over and cleaned it up a bit for ya Nikki, good job.





4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!

Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Friday, May 05, 2006 9:24 PM
good post nikki
btw, know any good body shops in our area? i wanna get my 1/4 panel fixed



Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Friday, May 05, 2006 10:19 PM
Shifted wrote:

I gave it a once-over and cleaned it up a bit for ya Nikki, good job.


Cool thank you! So, can this be a sticky? Not like anyone really reads them, but it'll be there, and it's something (if someone doesn't read it) that we can point them to instead of constantly repeating the same thing??

P-P-P-P-P-P-P-P-WEASE?!?!?!?!??!?




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Friday, May 05, 2006 10:52 PM
Quote:

but it does irritate me when people think that body work and paint is just soooooo easy that a monkey can do it, and think that we professionals can just type some words on a screen and have you turn out an excellent job.


amen


Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:


Sorry that you aren't fond of me... I guess you seem to be a loner in that crowd bud.

...i beg to differ
Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Saturday, May 06, 2006 6:44 AM
thank god you did this!! save me time from typing, my hands hurt after a long day
i like helping people i really do but her post is right on the money



can i haz bondo

Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Saturday, May 06, 2006 7:18 AM
Thanks everyone

CAN WE PLEASE for the love of god make this a sticky???




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Saturday, May 06, 2006 7:36 AM
STICKY STICKY STICKY STICKY, great right up for the newbs



fully built 2200-TO4E T3/T4-HP tuners-373hp @18psi
Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Tuesday, May 09, 2006 10:53 AM
You still didn't tell me how much my purple flames will cost me.




Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.



Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Wednesday, May 10, 2006 8:24 PM
awesome post dude. very informative for un-informed
Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Wednesday, May 10, 2006 9:53 PM
late nite wrote:

awesome post dude. very informative for un-informed


dudette... but thanks (yes, I'm a chick)




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Saturday, May 13, 2006 1:15 AM
i read the whole thing, thanks


im on a search to find a good body shop for my cavy as we speak (or type) wutever



Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Thursday, May 18, 2006 9:57 AM
dirty elf wrote:

i read the whole thing, thanks


im on a search to find a good body shop for my cavy as we speak (or type) wutever


you and me both...


Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Thursday, May 18, 2006 7:15 PM
Well I am certainly glad this was helpful




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Sunday, May 21, 2006 2:51 PM
OH yeah... one more thing to add.....

SPRAY BOMB IS THE DEVIL!!!

If any body/paint people would like to elaborate, feel free. But whatever you do, if you don't want to mess up your car... DO NOT USE SPRAYBOMB!!!!




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Saturday, July 08, 2006 9:05 PM
good job on the sticky , Nikki..
should call you sticky nikki lolol anyways, the better the paint the more your going to spend.. couldn't agree more.
one thing i'd like to add is, body work, alot will do a skimp out job on the body work in blocking it level and instead will spray some heavy build primer n block it and then spray your paint.
LIke to say from experience, block the body work the way it should be done right and then you wont have to have excess layers of primer to get the job halfway right. It'll find you out in the latter end.
What i mean is, get the body work level as you can get it. less filler, less fiberglass the better. i wont do body work unless i can get the metal out close to where theres less body filler / fiberglass involved.. i hate to know its going to be more than "my liking in thickness".. i have no set thickness.. but when i get this sickie feeling in my stomach.. i'd not do it unless i can pull that metal out real close to where it suppose to be.. and not fill it up with gunks of filler.
weld your shaving areas.. i find its best instead of filling it up with fiberglass n filler.. it'll crack later on.
like i say, from experience.. practice makes perfect, you gotta do it numerous times over n over.. it has to be like your wife/husband, if you please, otherwise you gotta love it or your not going to like body work, painting.
take your time.. i never rush in any painting / body work.
rushing causes mistakes or overlook the simple things that can ruin a good paint job.. can be like simple things like flash times, to being in a rush to where you can't fix your mistake while you have time.
if you paint. READ THE LABELS.. READ THE TECH SHEETS over n over until you dont have to look at them when your painting. Its a good tip. I do it all the time.
Know your health hazzards... Meaning if you do urethanes, know you must wear the proper respirator and not just a regular painting respirator.
I saved my mula up until I was able to get a full face mask with constant air supply, so no worrys about iso's from urethanes in my tear ducks or breathing nostrals... So it helps when you research about these things.

that'll sum it up for me.
Hope i'd helped this stickie some




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Monday, July 24, 2006 6:03 AM
i'm not a very active member here.

But since when do rants become stickies? this is a thinly vailed rant about newbie posts. Could be sumed up in a a few words.

A) Quality = Money.
B) Good paint job required experanced painters.
Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Monday, July 24, 2006 9:31 AM
michal olechowski wrote:

i'm not a very active member here.

But since when do rants become stickies? this is a thinly vailed rant about newbie posts. Could be sumed up in a a few words.

A) Quality = Money.
B) Good paint job required experanced painters.


Well, had you been here for a while, you'd understand why this is a sticky. The same questions get asked 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 times with the same answers, and, unfortunately something as simple as "Quality=money" and "Good paint job requires experienced painters" a lot of people can't seem to grasp.

Stick around the site for as long as I have and tell me you wouldn't mind the same posts over and over and over again. (I've been on here for 4 1/2 years). Maybe if people searched too, there wouldn't be a need for stickies.

This isn't an attack on you, so please don't take it that way, I'm glad you realize your A and B points, but many don't... so this was merely made by me to educate those who don't understand why we (auto body/paint professionals on this site) can't give estimates and what all goes into a great paint job, and explains also why not just any joe schmoe can pick up some bondo and paint and do a great job.

So, in conclusion, the "few words" you think it could be summed up in, can't be summed up in so few words, because if it could, there would have been no need for this sticky... and the mods wouldn't have decided it should be a sticky. Sticky posts are there for good reason. If that doesn't make sense to you or you sttill don't think this shouldl be a sticky, then be more active on the forums and read all of them and the repeated posts that are made. If you also read this whole sticky, you would have seen that it actually did help some people too... and that's what it's here for. Well that, and to make easily accessable the information people may need when making decisions on body work and paint... when no one is here all the time to answer such questions and have the knowledge to back it up.




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Saturday, November 18, 2006 1:20 PM
Great post; just read through it; one thing; how do you recommend attaching side skirts up top; two way tape, thanks....





98 j-body sedan




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Thursday, December 21, 2006 9:30 PM
dont trust your body work to just anyone. I had some guy that works part time out of his garage paint and install my blitz kit. He was to fit, mold, paint. He half assed the whole job. the paint looks nice. But the rear has a gap between the trunk and the bumper. The bumper itself sticks out a little on one side. The skirts needed to be sanded on the rear underneath and now the front is saging. I payed $600 for this. But I also got the kit from ebay. So if you get a kit from ebay, take it to a well experience body man and make sure its done right. Now I am replacing the back because well...i dont like it anymore and its been damaged due to poor installation, I also have to have everything adjusted and molded.

http://www.j-body.org/members/image/dez24/personal_pic.jpg/
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