Also i good way to get the bushing out is a tourch, burn the bushing till it falls out.
167,000 on an Ecotec since 02
Prophit wrote:Also i good way to get the bushing out is a tourch, burn the bushing till it falls out.
Also a good way to get the bushing out is a tourch, burn the bushing till it falls out.
167,000 on an Ecotec since 02
John Lenko wrote:Ok, question... anyone know how much extra thread is hiding in the steering arm? I'm wondering if there's an extra 1/2" hiding in there to be able to adjust the stock steering rack to the un-modified aluminum control arms... Or if I'll need a 99 N-body rack...
It's too cold outside for me to bother to check on my own 
I was finally able to answer this question myself. There's an extra 1.5 inches of thread hiding in the end of the steering tie rod.... so taking it out another 1/2 inch to use the J-body steering rack with unmodified N-body control arms (and knuckles) isn't going to cause a problem there...
Had to sacrifice a knuckle tonight to figure that out tho
...j
hey john, i just discovered this also last night. the N body tie rod end is also a tiny bit longer than the j one, so you make up a little length there.
did you see my post about the gtp axles plugging into the 2000+getrag 5 speed? oh wait, i guess you dont care ur running an auto...
farmerz24
The N-body is longer? Well that explains that... looks like I'll be OK with the J-body parts tho... less costs incurred on my part
I did see your post about the axles... but yeah, I'll be running the 4T65E-HD that came attached to the engine... so I can use the full Park Avenue axles (shortened, though).
...j
Finally got around to doing one of mine....
Now I need to finish the other side, then put the car on the ground so I can measure for the axles
Looks good John.
Looks like you won't be shortening them up with you using the knuckles.
Some pictures of the finished produce will be nice.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 

Oh yeah, the C-body is way wider. I need about 2 inches off each axle.
This still hasn't been stickied yet or added to the archives??
How long before anyone realizes this is invaluable information??
Good luck all with your projects.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 

I'm waiting until there's a way to add to the Library like the FAQ is set up... so I can add it
John Lenko wrote:I'm waiting until there's a way to add to the Library like the FAQ is set up... so I can add it 
That's cool.
I'd just hate to lose this kind of information over time.
I remember C.T. was working on the control arm section for possible Library use and was just wondering if it was still going to happen.
Thanks John.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 

So...... need to replace the outer tie rod ends ANYWAYS, looks like I might as well go with the N-body ones and some Alum control arms. Good find!
Does anyone have the pn for the aluminum control arms themselves I was looking on carparts.com but all they have are the control arm bushings.
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
wrong site.....
www.car-part.com
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, March 24, 2007 5:36 PM
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Thanks Brian I will look there.
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
I went to my local yard today and found a 99 GA with the sport suspension FE2 I believe and they cost me $84 with tax so I'll be starting mine this week since I have new ball joints and Poly bushings. I would have gotten the complete front suspension but I have the Tien SS coilovers and no one answered the question of whether or not the GAM knuckles will work with J -body struts. I will probably just get the Bare or Wilwood front setup.
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
mine will be here friday.
I just found a set here for 15 a piece. The car is even sitting on top of another one...so its excellent access. Gonna grab a J-body one too just for comparison when I take it to get filled and re-drilled.
This isn't quite a direct bolt on but near enough to not be out of my scope.
Thanks for all the great information. It was an educational 11 page read...even though it was not all on topic lots of great info.
mine are on and i love them. already aligned it and took it to the track i added poly bushings to. no wheel hop. one dones side is i am running the ball joints for a stamped arm till i can get the ones for the aluminum ones. also have a wheel bearing to fix.

this is a nice swap.
I went to pickup mine up today for 15 a peice....I ended up getting the spindle hub and axle from the GAM as well as the two arms (The other spindle was busted)....... all for 30 bucks
I have a question I don't think has been asked what if you shorten the aluminum control arms to match the stock j-body then use the GA balljoints/spindles/hubs/brakes, would this work?
That way no issues with suspension geometry and wheel fitment and we still get the benefits of the swap. Does anyone know if this will work?
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
guess you didnt read all 11 pages
I'm using the N-body knuckle/bearing on my J-body control arm....... if you mod the N-body arm to match the J arm..... what do you get?
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
So is anyone wanting some of these but not able to find any? The reason I am asking is I found about 10 sets of these the other day locally. If a few people are interested and its not a waste of time I could sell some. Just wondering