Looking at it again, the double tooth should pass by the sensor at 70 degress after top dead center?

Cause if thats the case, I can easily make up a template in AutoCAD cut it out and put it over my crank pulley, turn the crank 70* past TDC and then just line up the double knotch on the wheel to the sensor.

That is if I understand this properly.

newt wrote:Looking at it again, the double tooth should pass by the sensor at 70 degress after top dead center?

Cause if thats the case, I can easily make up a template in AutoCAD cut it out and put it over my crank pulley, turn the crank 70* past TDC and then just line up the double knotch on the wheel to the sensor.

That is if I understand this properly.

I think you've got it. The trigger will spin clockwise with the crank obviously, so the tooth that is 70* clockwise of that extra tooth should be centered on the CKP sensor at TDC, hence the "reference tooth" passes the sensor at 70* ATDC. The drawing i sent you assumes you use the same mounting position for the CKP sensor as we did. I returned your PM, feel free to call!

Ya I will call you tonight Ryan, around 7pm EST, hopefully your around.

I'm pretty sure I know whats going on here but I just wanna double check for obvious reasons.

Ohhhh this is exciting...!!



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

Ryan: I didn't call ya last night cause I think I got this figured out, figured I'd save myself the long distance charges..haha

Pretty sure this is right....

This is showing the trigger wheel layed over a drawing I made in AutoCAD, the two lines in the background are exactly 70* apart from eachother, the arrow pointing to the knotch indicates the knotch that should be lined up with the CPS sensor when the motor is at TDC.


This picture showing the motor at TDC....


And when the motor is at TDC the crank trigger should look like this



Did I get it right? LOL


Also, here is a pic of the bracket I made...

Yep, looks like you've got it! Only other advice i can give is if you didn't do so already, look at the old L61. Look through the hole where the CKP sensor is and rotate the engine. What I thought should be TDC (piston at top dead, kinda in the middle of dwell) was not quite where that notch lined up with the sight of the sensor. Looking at and rotating the L61 will give you the best reference of how to time it on the hybrid. I put the crank pulley on the L61, rotated it to get the "TDC" notch in line with the sensor, and found a reference point on the crank pulley to the timing cover (kinda like you did, so sorry for all the extra explaination if that's how you went about it). It's very easy to be off two three or even five degrees with the wheel.

The bracket looks MUCH better than mine lol. Much more sturdy!

Can't wait to have it running!

Ah I was unaware thats what you meant buy looking at the L61 for referance, I thought it was to just help understand how the knotchs work.

I will take a look at my L61 tonight and see if I have to adjust it.

That bracket was a serious pain in the ass to make! lol the tolerances are so tight that drilling the holes perfect the first time seemed to be impossible..lol

Ok, took a peak in my old motor last night and from what I could tell this is where the knotch 70* before the referance knotch was centered on the CPS sensor.

This seem right Ryan?


I measured that distance to be exactly 22mm BTDC (or 0.866") from the TDC mark on the crank pulley to the TDC mark on the timing cover.


Got the motor in last night....



Then ran into another snag (The LSJ head doesn't clear the Master, its touching the brake lines, not sure how I'm gonna fix this yet).


That where I left it for the night.

You've got it man. That's basically right where mine ended up after my best efforts as well. NIce work!

Awesome! I am super excited to hear this thing!



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

Forgive the newb question, what is the purpose of the trigger wheel? And what exactly is that sensor on your bracking 'reading'?












~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

The trigger wheel is different from the J-body L61 to the Delta LE5, they also use different CPS sensors (crank position sensor).

So in order for our ECU to read the CPS referance we need to run an external trigger wheel.

The sensor is thus picking up the crank position signal.

Perfectly clear now

Thanks man










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

how you eco guys never came up with this back in the day ill never know. shoulda been doing LE5 swaps back in like 05 hahahaha all those noob threads with people asking if they could swap an LSJ or LE5 etc where ppl bit their heads off saying NO THEY WONT WORK... hahaha

its pretty simple really...

Thats weird my brake line is close to my lsj head but yours looks about an inch farther over towards head mine is an 01 Possibly shorter curve at brake line.

Just goes to show you the more time goes by the more that others will figure out how to do.. Who knows what will be possible in a couple years lol.

And this build is looking great..

Ricardo Rosario wrote:Thats weird my brake line is close to my lsj head but yours looks about an inch farther over towards head mine is an 01 Possibly shorter curve at brake line.

He may also not have ABS, also another reason



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

-Z Yaaaa- wrote:how you eco guys never came up with this back in the day ill never know. shoulda been doing LE5 swaps back in like 05 hahahaha all those noob threads with people asking if they could swap an LSJ or LE5 etc where ppl bit their heads off saying NO THEY WONT WORK... hahaha

its pretty simple really...

Yeah, i remember last year when this all started with some douchebag on HPT forums making the false claim that the wheel on the LE5 and LSJ cranks unbolted revealing a 6+1 underneath. Time flys - I fired up my LE61 a year ago next week!

I'm hoping the next step is a gen2 block with no external wheel....maybe for christmas

Looks awesome dude. For the brake line, rebend it a bit, or make a new one.

Just found a therad on CSS.net where someone states that the LSJ head is ~56 cc's. I honestly would not have thought it's more volume than an L61 head...

Not much progress last night, got some of the car reasembled....just the easy stuff left to put on now.

Also my 42lb Ford Racing "Blue Demons" showed up finally

oldskool wrote:Just found a therad on CSS.net where someone states that the LSJ head is ~56 cc's. I honestly would not have thought it's more volume than an L61 head...

Huh that interesting.

I find it strange that m2race would list it at 50-51cc then...as you think they would know best.

I put in the info for a stock LSJ into a compression ratio calculator using 53cc and I get 9.48:1CR

If I use 56cc I get 9.07:1CR

I also assumed that an LSJ uses flat top pistons...im not sure if they do...never seen the stock piston.

Stock CR for a LSJ is 9.5:1CR so maybe m2race is using 51cc due to a slight head shave?

I dunno....I don't wanna say that guy is wrong...but I find it unlikely that it is 56cc, as the math just doesn't work out.

newt wrote:

oldskool wrote:Just found a therad on CSS.net where someone states that the LSJ head is ~56 cc's. I honestly would not have thought it's more volume than an L61 head...

Huh that interesting.

I find it strange that m2race would list it at 50-51cc then...as you think they would know best.

I put in the info for a stock LSJ into a compression ratio calculator using 53cc and I get 9.48:1CR

If I use 56cc I get 9.07:1CR

I also assumed that an LSJ uses flat top pistons...im not sure if they do...never seen the stock piston.

Stock CR for a LSJ is 9.5:1CR so maybe m2race is using 51cc due to a slight head shave?

I dunno....I don't wanna say that guy is wrong...but I find it unlikely that it is 56cc, as the math just doesn't work out.

I agree, it doesn't make sense. Especially when we consider the LSJ has 1mm shorter rods than an L61, yet the stroke is so much shorter too. Can the pin be moved high enough in the pistion to make up for that much lost deck height clearance? I know the L61 comp height is on the order of 10mm, so i doubt it can be moved up much higher than that...

I also wonder about what you said on M2Race's numbers coming from a slightly shaved/decked head.

I really should of cc my head before I put it on...hahaha

maybe the top ring land is in a different position... that can change compression some...

also, are the bores any different? do the LSJ valves have more of a 'tulip' dish to them versus the others?