This guide was made for everyone who owns an ECOTEC motor who wants to know what is available and where to get these parts. I included the part #s on most of the parts I listed below. This guide touches on every topic that is, from Bolt ons to Nitrous to Turbochargers. For some of the parts I list links for where they can get the info on how to install certain parts.
Keep in mind that prices may change without notice and may be different than the prices I found for this thread.
Exhaust: You can pretty much get it custom made if you want or order it from any company. If you want to go 2 1/4", Magnaflow or Borla is what I suggest. If you decide that you want to go 2 1/2" piping, you need to get it custom bent. I would highly suggest mandrel bends or compression bends. If you plan on boosting, depending on how much PSI you plan on running 2.5" or 3" would be suitable and of course would have to be custom made. If you decide to stay all motor, 2 1/4" piping is usually suggested.
Catalytic Converters, suggested is Magnaflow Cats matching whatever size piping you decide to get. You can either order it online or go to your nearest
Modified-Motorsports/Magnaflow Catalytic Converter - $189
As far as header, you can order them from either Weapon-R, RK Sport, Pacesetter that have nice setups for our motors.
Car Customs/RK Sport 4-2-1 Header (Ceramic Coated) - P/N #RK-020910026 - Price $450.00 Free Shipping
Defined Parts - Weapon-R 4-2-1 Header - P/N #953-112-104 - Price $280.00
Pacesetter 4-1 Header (Ceramic Coated) - P/N #72C1279 - Price N/A
RSM Racign 4-1 Header - Contact for Part # & Price
This might help you install your Header: http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=276502&t=276502&arch=1#276502
Intake: You can pretty much get this anywhere. I personally have a Weapon-R one. You can purchase this from Defined Parts.com.
Throttle Body: Right now there are 2 places that offer an bigger throttle body for our cars. They are RSM Racing & Reveco (I believe Reveco is ebay based). These throttle bodies are stock throttle bodies that were bored out to 62 MM and fitted with a bigger plate. I personally have the RSM Throttle Body and noticed gains in mid-range.
RSM Racing 62 MM TB - P/N: 62TB4GJ22-1106 - Price: N/A
This thread should help you install your TB: http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=313550&t=313550#313550
Motor Mounts: Keeps the engine still and from jumping around in the engine bay. May help with response. Unlike the 2.2 OHV motors and 2.4s, we have available an actual full replacement Upper Motor Mount instead of an Motor Mount Insert.
Car Customs/RK Sport Upper Motor Mount - P/N: #RK-02031010 - Price $118.70 Free Shipping
Car Customs/RK Sport Lower Motor Mount - P/N: #RK-02035447 - Price $50.00 Free Shipping
Upper Motor Mount Install Instructions
Lower Motor Mount Install Instructions
Crank Pulley: You have the option of getting a couple quality pulleys. There is the underdrive pulley from RK Sport and stock sized pulley by RSM Racing. The underdrive pulley reduces power being sent to another accessories by being smaller but it is nothing major unless you have a high powered stereo system or anything else that might drain your battery. The stock pulley will not effect your accessories. I personally have the RK Sport Underdrive pulley and noticed faster reving. You can purchase the belt for the underdrive pulley at any car parts store near you, call RK Sport for the belt part #. The RSM pulley doesn't require a new belt, stock fits properly.
Car Customs/RK Sport ECOTEC Underdrive Crank Pulley - P/N #RK-020984098 - Price $144.95 Free Shipping
RMS Racing Lightened Billet Aluminum Crank Pulley - P/N #CP4GJ22E - Price N/A
This thread would help you on how to install the Crank Pulley: http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=278951&t=278951&arch=1#278951
Intake Manifold: Currently there is only one company really producing an intake manifold for the ECOTECs, which is Venom. It's new in production and because of that, it's very expensive (around $900-1100 I believe). If you do not think it is worth it, there is a post you can read on dremeling your stock one: http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=297315&t=297315#297315
Directauto.com/Venom Performance Intake Manifold - P/N #M45-361 - Price $1,039.99
Camshafts: There are basically 2 types of camshaft grinds going around. The stage 1 is the "safest" because it doesn't throw any codes. You can get this camshaft from Jbody Performance. The Stage 2 is known to throw codes and might experience fuel issues in result of this camshaft (and also the Stage 1). Crane Cams sells a grind for the ECOTEC motor, you can purchase it from Howell Automotive. Of course, if you decide that you want to take your cams to a machine shop and have it re-grinded, you can. I personally have the Stage 1s and notice my Powerband increases from 3000 RPMs and up.
If you decide you don't want to purchase a pre-made set and want to get your own camshaft made OR you don't want to send in your stock camshafts, you can buy blank camshafts from GM Performance Parts.
Jbody Performance Stage 1 Specs:
Intake Duration 200 @ 050 Lift .433 inch | Exhaust Duration 200 @ 050 Lift .433 inch
Jbody Performance Stage 2 Specs:
Crane ECOTEC Camshaft Specs:
Intake Duration 201 @ 006 Lift .440 inch | Exhaust Duration 197 @ 006 Lift .428 inch
Jbody Performance Stage 1 & 2 Camshafts - P/N: JP0288 - $559.20 US
Howell Automotive/Crane Cams Camshafts - P/N: Reg03991 - $449.95
ECOTEC Intake Camshaft Blank - P/N: 88958611 - $77.43
ECOTEC Exhaust Camshaft Blank - P/N: 88958612 - $77.43
How to install Camshafts on your ECOTEC
Port & Polish Head Packages:
There are basically 4 companies that you can get these from, Patriot Performance, GM Performance Parts, Jbody Performance and RSM Racing. They offer the springs, retainers and port and polish the cylinder to a nice amount to give your motor a nice breathing path. If you want different valves, those are usually extra and you'd have to get a price on those. I personally have the Patriot Performance head and noticed MUCH faster reving and top end power. I would also suggest getting a fuel tuning after this is installed to make sure you are running the right fuel amount.
You can also consider a full Race Head package available by Jbody Performance. Their package includes a 5 Angle valve job, titanium or stainless steel valves, HD custom valve springs, all new seals, with computerized flow bench data sheet, cam gears and even Pistons. Read can read more info at their page http://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/PartDetails.php?partId=302&catId=302&catName=JP0302
Patriot-Performance Stage I Head (Assy) - P/N: 2039 - Price $1,095.00
Patriot-Performance Stage II Head (Assy) - P/N: 2042 - Price $1,295.00
GM Performance Parts Ecotec High Performance CNC Ported Head - P/N: 88958619 - $1,334.38
RSM Racing Ported Head - P/N: PH22EJS3-0304 - Price N/A
Jbody Performance Race Head Package - P/N: JBP0302 - Price $2,519.28
Head Gasket: You can purchase an ECOTEC Multi-Layer steel head gasket from Cometic and you can get the copper head gasket from GM Performance Parts.
GM Performance Parts ECOTEC Copper Head Gasket - P/N: 88958614 - Price $218.83
Cometic MLS Head Gasket (87 MM Bore) - P/N: C5768-040 / (89 MM Bore) - P/N: C5804-040 / (92 MM Bore) - P/N: C5805-040 - Price $79 at http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/cometicgaskets.html
Head Studs: If your building your motor to handle horsepower, adding stronger headstuds is a must and semi-inexpensive part to add for insurance. ARP is highly suggested and is a repuatable company.
Car Customs/ARP Stud Kit - P/N CC-0054 - Price $139.95
Pistons: There are various places you can get Pistons depending on what you want done. You can purchase these from Wiseco, JE Pistons and GM Performance Parts (these are the only ones I can think of off the top of my head). Wiseco & JE Pistons makes different compression pistons, from 9:1 to 10:1 compression. If you are running all motor, I would suggest upping it to about 10.5:1 or even 11:1 compression but that is simply up to you. GM Performance Parts offers a couple set of pistons. 1 set is their High Performance Pistons, they don't list any ratings on them but I believe they are 9:1 compression pistons which is good for if you decide to boost at a decently high PSI. They also offer a Set of Race Pistons. Those pistons are only to work with their Race Rods and I believe their Crankshaft. GM also offers a set of LSJ Pistons which are the pistons from the Cobalt SS Supercharged/Redline 2.0 motors. They are rated higher than the 2.2 Pistons (I believe rated at 300+). Most of these packages come with Piston rings included but follow up to make sure they do.
Jbody Performance/Wiseco Pistons - P/N: JP0243 - Price $596 US
Car Customs/Wiseco Pistons 10:1 CR .20 Overbore & Stock Bore - P/N: WIS-K582M865 / 8.9:1 CR .20 Overbore - P/N WIS-K583M865 / 8:9.1 CR Stock Bore - P/N: WIS-K583M86 - Price $475 Free Shipping
GM Performance Parts Ecotec High Performance Piston, Ring, and Pin Set - P/N: 88958634 - Price $799.00
GM Performance Parts Ecotec Racing Piston and Pin Set - P/N: 88958635 - Price $789.00
Contact JE for their Part #s & Prices
LSJ Pistons - P/N: 12590988 - Price N/A
Rods: You can purchase these rods from Eagle or 2 sets from GM Performance, either the LSJ Rods or GM's Full Race Rods. They are all rated at different power amounts, contact them before you decide what you want to find out their ratings.
LSJ Connecting Rods - P/N: 12755162 - Price N/A
GM Performance Parts Ecotec Billet connecting Rod Set - P/N: 88958618 - $1,250.00
Eagle ECOTEC Rods - P/N: CRS5765C3D - $400.00
Car Customs/Eagle Forged H-Beam ECOTEC Rods - P/N: EG-CRS5765C3 - Price $350.00 Free Shipping
Crankshaft: The stock ECOTEC crankshaft has been tested to handle power amounts up to 600 HP. If you really want to swap your stock one out, you have the option of 2 crankshafts...Eagle's Forged Crankshaft or GM Performance's De-stroked Crank shaft.
Eagle Forged Crankshaft (without timing ring) - P/N: 2237245765 - $1000.00
Eagle Forged Crankshaft (with timing ring) - P/N: 2237245765R - $1000.00
GM Performance Parts Ecotec Billet Crankshaft - P/N: 88958620 - $3850.00
TRANSMISSIONS (5-SPEED MANUALS - GETRAG)
Clutch: Upgrading your clutch is a critical part when it comes to adding more power to your vehicle. The better clutch you have, the better grab it will have also and the better it will hold power with less slippage. Long term, upgrading your clutch will save you money. Clutchmasters, Exedy, RSM Racing & SPEC make nice clutches for our 5-speed Getrag transmissions. Remember, the higher stage Clutch you get, the more difficult it is to drive with on a daily driven vehicle.
Gravana Tuning/Exedy Stage 1 Clutch Kit - P/N: EXD-04801 - Price $358.00
Car Customs/SPEC Stage 1 Clutch Kit - P/N: SPEC-SC891 - Price $319.00 Free Shipping
Car Customs/SPEC Stage 2 Clutch Kit - P/N: SPEC-SC892 - Price $419.00 Free Shipping
Car Customs/SPEC Stage 3 Clutch Kit - P/N: SPEC-SC893 - Price $419.00 Free Shipping
Car Customs/SPEC Stage 4 Clutch Kit - P/N: SPEC-SC894 - Price $419.00 Free Shipping
Car Customs/SPEC Stage 5 Clutch Kit - P/N: SPEC-SC895 - Price $529.00 Free Shipping
RSM Racing High Friction Clutch - Contact for a Part # & Price
Flywheels: Currently there is only 1 in-production Flywheel being produced, which is by SPEC. RK Sport does have one available if you can find one used or from a private seller...theirs was discontinued.
Car Customs/SPEC Billet Alluminum Flywheel - P/N: SPEC-SC98A - $389 Free Shipping
Short Shifters: The most popular short shifter sold is by B & M...it's even backed with a 1 million mile warranty.
Car Customs/B & M Short Shifter - P/N: BM-45156 - Price $140.00 Free Shipping
Modified Motorsports/B & M Short Shifter - P/N: 02099300 - Price $154
A Plus Performance/B & M Short Shifter - P/N: mu-bm-45156 - Price $139.99
TRANSMISSIONS (4 SPEED AUTOMATIC - 4T40E)
Shift Kits: Increasing the line pressure will make your automatic shift with more efficiency...very helpful to have for your automatic. There are 2 kits available, Auto Trans Interceptor & a B & M Shift Plus. I personally have the Auto Trans and recommend it, very simple installation and a wide amount of adjustment to your line pressure. To install the Shift Plus, you have to splice wires and is a bit more involved and has pre-set line pressure settings for you to choose from.
Car Customs/Auto Trans Interceptor - P/N: AT-33790 - Price $129.95 Free Shipping
Car Customs/B & M Shift Plus - P/N: BM-70380 - Price $45.00 Free Shipping
This post will help you install your Interceptor: http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=41&i=6788&t=6788&arch=1#6788
This post will help you install your B&M Shift Plus: http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=41&i=4376&t=4376
Torque Converters: Torque Converters for our cars have to be custom made. Updgrading your torque converter will allow you to apply more power to the wheels and allow you to rev higher with the higher stall speed. This is an extremely good upgrade if you plan to go high power with your Automatic transmission.
You can contact the following companies to have them custom make you one:
Yank Converters - www.converter.cc
Pro Torque - www.protorque.com
Here is a post that will supply you with more information on this subject:
LSD: If you have worked your motor up to exceed a great amount of power, your drivetrain should also be able to handle that power. Having a LSD (Limited Slip Differential) can improve your traction tremendously. How it works is your car puts out power really through 1 drivewheel. The limited slip would give you the ability to distribute power through both drive wheels.
You can purchase an LSD from Engineered, Quafie & Phantom Grip.
Engineered LSD - Call for Price - Link
Quafie LSD - Call for Price - Link
Phantom Grip - Call for Price - Link
Axles: Where its weakest points are the spines. They can break apart under extreme load & cause much damage by havign the metal just lying around in the tranny &/or damaging the spins in the differential. That's why upgrading them can be critical for high powered vehicles. The Driveshaft Shop & Jbody Performance makes them for our cars. Choose for which power amount you are making.
The Driveshaft Shop
The Race Shop
SAFC-2: This allows you to adjust the amount of fuel you want in each RPM, from Low throttle and High throttle. It tricks your computer into changing the signal to your fuel injectors to send more or less fuel into your motor. This comes in very handy if you are running rich or lean and want to get that perfect tune. Simple install...must soider wires to prevent any issues.
Apexi SAFC-2 - P/N: 401-A007
Greddy E-manage: This product allows you to alter fuel consumption, ignition timing and also possible to remove your rev limiter (if needed). This is adjustable through using a laptop computer with their software or by purchasing their own monitor (PROFEC E-01) for tuning, whichever you decide. Installation is similar the the SAFC-2 but is a bit more involved since you are hooking up to the ignition controls in the computer.
Greddy Emanage Piggyback Unit - P/N: 15500500
Greddy PROFEC E-01 - P/N: 15500207
Megasquirt II: This product allows you to change the fuel consumption or ignition timing. Installation is the same as the 2 above.
Megasquirt II - P/N: MC9S12C32
AEM EMS: This is a full standalone system unlike the other "piggyback" systems. This will allow you to do anything you chose without throwing any codes and pretty much allows you to do as will with your computer with no problems. This is very involved and very expensive. This is highly suggested if you are not running high amounts of power. I believe this is not emissions legal also.
MSD Ignition system: You would need the MSD DIS-2 ignition system. This will allow you to change your ignition timing and will supply more spark.
MSD Ignition DIS-2 - P/N: 62112
Here are instructions to hook up all the piggyback systems, the MSD Ignition system and also the PCM Diagram:
ECOTEC PCM Diagram
MSD Ignition Installation Guide (Thanks Rodimus)
TURBOCHARGER KITS/BOOST ACCESSORIES
Turbo Kits: Purchasing a turbocharger kit to increase the power in your ECOTEC is a very good investment. If you are somewhat inexperienced with turbochargers or not a full hands on person and want to save time in finding parts, you can purchase a full turbocharger kit that comes with everything you need like: Turbo, Turbo Manifold, BOV (Blow Off Valve), Oil Lines, Injectors, Intercooler, FMU etc. Time and time again, they have shown that the ECOTEC motor can handle and produce lots of power if properly tuned. Horsepower gains have been shown to reach from 200 whp and up depending on PSI amount and tuning.
There is one main company that come to mind as far as having turbo kits for the ECOTEC motor, Hahn Racecraft. Hahn Racecraft offers 2 different turbo kits which have been proven to give wonderful gains.
Always remember, depending on what amount of power you are looking for, you might have to do some extensive motorwork to support the amount of PSI you're planning on pushing. Usually recommended for our motors is 8 PSI max untill you SHOULD do some extensive bottom end work (replacing stock pistons for forged pistons and replacing stock rods for forged rods). Depending on how much PSI you plan on running also, you might consider purchasing pistons that are rated at a lower compression. Of course they suggest 8 PSI max but it is possible to run slightly higher and be ok but it is not suggested...if so, tuning is critical.
The Hahn Kit is only sold to the 5-speed manual transmission vehicles BUT there is word that you can still buy one for your 4-speed Auto and alter it to fit properly.
Call Hahn Racecraft for prices & part #s on their Stage I & II Turbo Kits
Boost Controller: A boost controller gives the person the ability to adjust the amount of pressure sent through their turbocharged vehicle. There are 2 types...a manual boost controller & an electronic boost controller. A manual boost controller is actually a physical piece that you adjust by hand and you determine how much PSI you are pushing usually by a guage of some sort. An electronic boost controller is controlled electronically and inside the vehicle instead of under the hood like the manual controller...of course also more expensive than the manual controller.
2 popular controllers are the TurboXS manual controller and the Greddy PROFEC B-SPEC2 Electronic Controller.
Greddy PROFEC B-SPEC2 (Electronic Boost Controller) Black - P/N: 15500209 / Silver - P/N: 15500210
TurboXS Standard (Manual) Boost Controller - P/N BC-SBC
Turbo Timer - The basic function of a turbo timer is to allow the vehicle to idle the engine for a timed period, with the ignition key removed. This allows the engine oil and turbo center cartridge to cool down and prevent internal turbo damage. A popular one used is the Greddy Full Auto Turbo Timer.
Greddy Full Auto Turbo Timer Black - P/N: 15500020 / Silver - P/N: 15500021
BUILD YOUR OWN TURBO KIT
Some people would rather not buy a full kit provided by a company and want to piece it together. Here are the parts and tools you need...you can thank Redd214 for posting this in the FAQ:
Redd214 wrote:The GENERAL list for a turbo'd J is this:
Turbo (generally a T3 or T3/T4 will do)
Wastegate (Internal or external)
Turbo downpipe Flange
Bolts for turbo and downpipe flange
Braided oil lines with fittings
2.5" Pipe for charge pipes
Connectors and clamps for pipes
BOV and flange
FMU (I'd go cartech adjustable personally)
Bigger Injectors (if you plan to run over 6lbs of boost)
Inline/In tank pump
Boost controller (I'd go Greddy Profec)
MSD-DIS 2 (To turn back timing if you want anything over 6bs really)
Lots of misc vaccum hose
Rubber Fuel lines for FPR
Oil and oil filter (for the obvious reason)
Intercooler (optional, but worth it)
Some spare metal brackets for custom mounting the Intercooler
Misc bolts (self tapping), and Nut/bolt combos
Boost Gauge, EGT gauge (optional but smart to have one)
(If you have a profec boost controller the boost gauge is unnecessary as its built in)
A good toolset capable of taking the manifold off
Knife for mild cutting
Sawzall if you plan to cut your own charge pipes
File (in case you need to cut anything and don't want a sharp edge)
Dremel tool (You never know when you need to make room for things, although a good blade and a file will do the same job, but slower)
Drill (To mount your I/C and tap your firewall bolts)
Oil Catch Pan
4-5 cases of beer, a weeks worth of time, and a lot of willing and capable friends.
LOTS AND LOTS of patience.
As mentioned, before you start the install, make sure you have a couple of hundred bucks and an extra car so you can run around and get all the extra crap you didn't think about the first time around. Problems arise that we don't all plan for.
Never plan that you'll "be done in time to hit the track friday night"... a turbo install is not something you rush, but something that CAN be done over a weekend by knowledgable person. I say give yourself a week because you never know what problems you'll run into.
Also, the last thing on your list to save some $$$ for and DO NOT SKIMP ON IT is a dynotune with a wideband 02 sensor hooked up.
The dynotune is of unparalleld importance when trying to get a turbo car set up right.
Supercharger Kits - Currently there is 1 available supercharger and 1 on the way from GM. The one available is a centrifigal style supercharger which is available through RSM Racing. This supercharger kit includes everything you need to run properly. They offer 2 kits. The Stage 1 kit runs at 6 PSI of boost estimating an 65 HP gain...this kit is offered for both the Automatic Transmissions and Manual Transmissions. The Stage II Kit runs at 10 PSI of boost estimating an 85 HP gain. The Stage II kit is only available for the 5-speed manual transmission vehicles.
The GM Supercharger that is coming out will be the M62 Root Style supercharger (same as on the Cobalt SS Supercharger). It is reported to be released sometime Late 2005.
RSM Racing Stage I Supercharger Kit (Manual) - P/N: S1SC22EMM-0204J / (Automatics) - P/N: S1SC22EA-0204J
RSM Racing Stage II Supercharger Kit (Manual Only) - P/N: S2SC22EMM-0204J
Call GM Performance Parts for updates on the GM ECOTEC 2.2 Supercharger Kit
Nitrous Kits: There are 3 basic companies that most people with our cars/motors go torwards: NX, Zex & NOS. Nitrous kits are basically universal. The ECOTEC motor has been shown to run upwards of a 75 Shot safely with proper pre-cautions. It is highly suggested that become very educated in how nitrous works and what pre-cautions are needed to run this safely and an extended period of time.
For instructions how to install a nitrous kit, you can follow these instructions: Nitrous Install
Here are links below of where you can get everything I have listed or the companies website to find more information about their products.
2002 ECOTEC Fuel System Upgrade: As some of you know, the 2002 ECOTECs use a different fuel system than the 2003-2005 ECOTECs. The 2002s have different Injectors, Fuel Rail and Fuel Pressure Regulator. The 2002 Injectors are also longer than the 2003-05 ECOTECs. On the newer ECOTECs, GM used a spacer between the head and the actual Injector to make up the size difference between the tw injectors. If you use those spacers on your 2002 ECOTEC by putting them in between your injector and the head, you will be able to use the fuel system from the 2003-2005 ECOTECs.
This modification would be extremely beneficial if you're planning on boosting because you will be able to use almost any injector available.
Auto to Manual ECOTEC Tranny Swap: I had started a post a while back on what parts you would need to actually do a tranny swap, well I got the parts you need AND how to actually do the swap. This is quoted from the one and only John Lenko...
John Lenko wrote:Heh.. it's fun, let me tell ya.
NJHK's ECOTEC Tips
Get the tranny... flywheel... pedals... clutch master cylinder... slave cylinder... clutch... engine bay wiring harness (if you use same year, it should be plug & play)... mounts... brackets...
drop the old tranny & engine. It's easier to do it all together. take apart the motor & trans... remove the starter, you get the three bolts on the flex plate to torque converter housing that way. Separate the two, remove the flex plate... install the flywheel (use the correct length bolts, which are longer than the flex plate ones, but same thread.) I used blue threadlocker. My flex plate bolts came out with blue on them. GM says use red. Use whatever you want, but use something. mount up the tranny and bolt it to the engine.
grind off the old auto tranny mounts.. weld in new brackets for the getrag mounts. rear one from GM, front one from Turbo Tech Racing. Don't waste your time trying to cut one off a wrecked car, it's more trouble than it's worth. Measure 10 times, to make sure you've got it right. Tack weld them in place, then do a test fit with the tranny & engine. Once you're sure they're in right, weld 'em in good.
Install the 5 speed shifter and pedals.. including the new gas/brake pedals (one assembly, and the brake is smaller). Cut the hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder & pedal. You'll need the two nuts on the cylinder, plus one bolt to the steering column. I just raided the junkyard for small pieces every couple of days until it was done.
Put it all together, bleed the clutch, and you're good to go.
1. Getting a Fuel Management System: You can pretty much get a fuel management system anytime you want but whether you will need it is another thing. I found from experience of upgrading all the breather modifications (intake, throttle body, full exhaust) that my vehicle still ran fine and fuel wasn't an issue. Fuel became an issue as soon as I dropped aftermarket camshafts in.
Make sure you either take it to a dyno to get it tuned or invest in a Wideband to tune yourself.
2. Camshafts: I have seen from person experience and from countless others that our computers are sensitive when it comes to our cams. Too big of a grind and your computer says "wait a minute!" and can throw a series of too rich codes & possibly have knocking issues. If you read above in the "camshafts" section, I wrote that the Stage 1 camshaft grind is the "safest". When I say "safest", I mean it doesn't throw any codes (or shouldn't if installed properly). Getting the Stage 2s, you are running at a higher risk of atleast throwing a Too Rich code.
Also remember, your camshafts will ultimately determine what your future is. If you get a Stage 2 camshafts and then you want to turbo your ECOTEC with 8 psi of boost, well you better change those camshafts to some stock or specialy made forced induction camshafts. High Duration camshafts cause valve overlap which isn't good for forced induction applications. Read more on Valve Overlap
3. Gains/Times to expect from modifying your ECOTEC: This can pretty much go for any motor you have...every motor will react to a modification differentley, even if they are the same motor. The only way to fully tell is by going to the dyno shop or going to the track and doing it yourself. There are too many variables to give you a proper answer...if I could, I would make lots of money as a fortune teller
4. Nitrous Shots: If you are inexperienced and uneducated about Nitrous and you want to use it, get educated first! Nitrous may be "cheap boost" but it's extremely dangerous when you don't know what you're doing. First thing you should do, read all you can about nitrous, what nitrous is, what nitrous does to actually gain you power, what different nitrous shots there are etc etc.
It's public knowledge that with proper preporations that the ECOTEC motor can handle upwards of a 75 shot, knowing this I suggest that you start small and work your way up. If you're a track runner, you want to learn how to drive your car first, use small shots of nitrous...get used to it and gradually increase the shot more and more as you get used to it. This way you'll learn when you want to spray, when to shift while spraying and what shot you're really comfortable with. Also, the more accesories you get, the better. Want to know more? Read this Nitrous FAQ for Beginners
5. Reasearch & Money: Reasearching will make or break your pockets as far as money goes. If you do everything right the first time, there is no going backwards in fixing modifications or replacing them and wasting money. If you don't know if a part is good or if anyone has it, ask around. Ask people what they think of X part and if they had any problems with X product.
Now that you want X product but it's too much money for you at this moment...SAVE! For example: I wanted a Patriot P & P Head, of course I didn't have $1200 laying around. I worked extra hard for 2 months to save up $1200 and bought it as soon as I could. Patience is the key...
You can get all the parts listed and find out more information at the links below:
GM Parts DIrect
A Plus Performance
Zex Nitrous Kits
I hope this helps you guys out who wanted more info. If you have any questions, just ask. I hope you enjoyed it
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837