I might do it some 4 day weekend once I save the cash for the other parts... and I know for sure I can borrow one of my parents cars if I mess something up.
Just take your time while doing the timing. I hope to get mine done between christmas and new years.
Shouldn't you make sure everything is timed right (#1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke) before you take the timing chain off anyway?
NO, you want it to be 90 degrees off TDC, so if a cam does turn the valves won't hit the pistons.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
Yup ge_forcez22 that's how I did the cams and the crank when I did mine, just remember to turn it back when setting timming.
The the LD9 is an Interference motor then.... I was wondering about that.
12355988 - Intake or exhaust cam carrier gaskets (upper and lower)
12363173 - Intake or exhaust cam carrier gaskets (upper and lower)
24575512 - Tensioner. Not required, but if you have timing chain noise..change this. Also, be sure you are familiar with how this part works because it has to be pre-loaded once installed to snug up the timing chain.
24575513 - Tensioner shoe. This will probably break when you remove, so change it anyway.
24575255 - Guide. Not required unless yours are worn.
24575257 - Guide. Same as above.
24575256 _ Guide. Same as above.
992704 - Assembly Lube. Good idea to coat the cam lobes and the carriers where the cam contacts with this stuff.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----992869 - Oil supplement. The GM manual calls for this stuff when you do the cams.-----
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
12360464 - I think this # is the timing chain cover gasket. (optional)
245752453 - I think this is rthe # for the water pump gasket kit. This is only required if you are doing your water pump. I did my water pump and thermostat at the same time as the cams
I can't seem to find the "Oil supplement," what does everybody use for this? I am using new everything except the cams so I am just trying to get this all right the first time.
SORRY I AM A LITTLE NEW IN PERFORMANCE TALK, CAN SOME BODY TELL ME THE CASTING NUMBERS FOR BOOTH SECRET CAM´S INTAKE AND EXHAUST, FOR A LD9 ENGINE, AND ALSO THE ESPESIFICATIONS LIFT AND DURATION OF BOOTH, IN EBAY SOME ONE ARE SELLING ONE INTAKE CAM WITH THIS CAST NUMBER 245/742, THIS IS CORRECT?
TAHNK´S
can some body tel me the gain of hp´s using the secret cams?
Apparently the difference has been dyno'd to be 6hp... but I've known people that swear it's more like 10 or 12..... but I'm more likely to trust dyno'd results over assumptions. When I put mine in... it didn't feel like more than a 6 to 10hp increase.
Some people saids that can get 20or 30 hp´s if you all ready have headers, cai, and re - flash the ecu.
Well I already have a header and CAI (although a stock tune) and although I could tell a difference.... it wasn't 20hp.
Oh and btw..... when you replace the cams..... the engine is supposed to be at #1 TDC.... thats the way we did it and it worked out fine..... I don't know how your supposed to lock the cam gears if you dont.
and FERNANDO..... it's header... not headers..... you only have one exaust manifold.
Im about to swap in my cams this weekend and my car has about 100,000 on the motor should i repleace the Tensioner and the chain? They both look like they are in really good conition but ive been tol to repleace them while im in there. I dont want to waste money if they are going to be just fine.
Not that I'm an expert on this or anything LOL... but people don't like to answer questions in here.
I replaced my tensioner and chain when I did mine. Having the tenshioner out made it a lot easier to get the chain back on too. You might find it hard to find just the chain for sale... most places only want to sell you the chain along with the gears and a complete rebuild kit. I got just the chain at Olrieleys auto parts where I live. You definitely want to replace your gaskets though.
Also.... with 100k miles on it.... you probably should replace your water pump while your in there too.... because if your pump goes out down the road.... you'll have to tear most of the same stuff off the engine to get to it that you do when you replace the cams. I wanted to replace mine when I did my swap... but didn't because of the situation I was in where I was doing the work.... hopefully I don't regret it.
OnEBaDAzZz24 wrote:Im about to swap in my cams this weekend and my car has about 100,000 on the motor should i repleace the Tensioner and the chain? They both look like they are in really good conition but ive been tol to repleace them while im in there. I dont want to waste money if they are going to be just fine.
Personally i would change all that i could with new parts if i had that mileage on my car. Water pump may not be a bad idea to swap as well while doing the job. As said if it goes you have to do the same procedure litterally to get it replaced and also a dealer/Garage will charge around $600-$900 to replace.
I changed all the parts on my car when i did it at only 50K.
Weebel wrote:Not that I'm an expert on this or anything LOL... but people don't like to answer questions in here.
I would respond but i am not on here as much, plus i don't have my car any more.
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Ok thanks for the info, im going to replace the chain and tensioner while im in there. I did the water pump last year in september so that is ok.
Use for general info!
INTAKE.................
Service Information
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier | Cavalier, Sunfire (VIN J) Service Manual | Engine | Engine Mechanical - 2.4L | Repair Instructions | Document ID: 597405
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Intake Camshaft, Housing and Lifter Replacement
Tools Required
• J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter
• J 36011 Spark Plug Wire Remover
Removal Procedure
Important:
• Any time the camshaft housing to the cylinder head bolts are loosened or removed, the camshaft housing to the cylinder head gasket must be replaced.
• During disassembly, ensure that the valve lifters are kept together and identified so that they can be reinstalled in the original locations.
• Before disassembling the valve mechanism, make a compression test and note the results. Refer to Engine Compression Test .
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical .
Remove the ignition coil and the module assembly. Refer to Ignition Control Module Replacement in Engine Controls.
Remove the camshaft position sensor connector.
Remove the power steering pump and position aside.
Do not disconnect the power steering lines.
Disconnect electrical from oil pressure sensor.
Remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator.
Remove the fuel rail. Refer to Fuel Injection Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls.
Disconnect, but do not remove from the vehicle, the timing chain housing at the intake camshaft housing. Refer to Timing Chain Housing Replacement .
Remove the camshaft housing cover to the camshaft housing retaining bolts.
Important:
• Use the reverse of the tightening procedure when loosening the camshaft housing to the cylinder head retaining bolts.
• Leave the 2 bolts loosely in place in order to hold the camshaft housing while separating the camshaft cover from the housing.
Remove the camshaft housing to the cylinder head retaining bolts.
Important: Tighten the bolts evenly in order to prevent the cover from binding on the dowel pins.
Push the cover off the housing by threading four of the housing to head retaining bolts into the tapped holes in the camshaft housing cover.
Remove the 2 loosely installed camshaft housing to head bolts.
Remove the cover and discard the gaskets.
Loosely reinstall one camshaft housing to cylinder head bolt in order to retain the housing during the camshaft and lifter removal.
Note the position of the chain sprocket dowel pin for reassembly.
Remove the camshaft being careful not to damage the camshaft or the journals.
Important: The valve lifters are not serviceable. Replace faulty valve lifters.
Coat the valve lifter with the camshaft and lifter prelube GM P/N 12345501 (Canadian P/N 992704), or the equivalent. If the new lifters are installed, add the engine oil supplement GM P/N 1052367 (Canadian P/N 992869), or the equivalent, to the engine oil.
Remove the valve lifters as follows:
• Keep the lifters in order to reinstall the lifters to the original locations.
• In order to minimize the lifter bleed down, perform the following procedure:
- Store the lifters upside down, opposite of the installed position, on a level surface.
- Store the lifters submerged in clean engine oil.
Important: Ensure that the alignment dowel pins are in the cylinder head prior to installing the camshaft housing.
Remove the camshaft housing and the gasket.
Installation Procedure
Install the camshaft housing to the cylinder head with a new gasket.
Sealer is unnecessary.
Loosely install on camshaft housing to the cylinder head bolt in order to hold the housing in place.
Important: Used lifters must be returned to the original position in the camshaft housing. If the camshaft is being replaced, the lifters actuated by the camshaft must also be replaced.
Install the lifters into the lifter bores.
Install the camshaft in the same position as when removed.
The timing chain sprocket dowel pin should be straight up and line up with the centerline of the lifter bores.
Install the new camshaft housing to the green colored camshaft housing cover seals and into the cover.
Sealant is unnecessary.
Remove the bolt holding the housing in place.
Apply the pipe sealant GM P/N 1052080 (Canadian P/N 10953480) or the equivalent to the camshaft housing and the cover retaining bolt threads.
Install the camshaft housing cover to the camshaft housing.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Important: The top intake camshaft housing bolts are tightened to a different specification than the other camshaft housing bolts.
Using the J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter:
Tighten
• Tighten the camshaft housing to cylinder head bolts to 15 N·m (11 lb ft) + 90 degrees.
• Tighten the camshaft housing cover to camshaft housing bolts to 15 N·m (11 lb ft) + 30 degrees.
Install the timing chain housing and the timing chain. Refer to Timing Chain Housing Replacement .
Install the camshaft position sensor connector.
Install electrical to oil pressure sensor.
Important: When reinstalling the power steering pump, apply a 3 mm bead of GM P/N 12346286 (Canadian P/N 10953472) sealer or the equivalent to the joint at the end of the camshaft housing halves before the installation of the power steering pump and the pump face seal.
Install the power steering pump assembly.
Install ignition coil and module assembly. Refer to Ignition Control Module Replacement in Engine Controls.
Important: Do not compress the lifter plungers using a vise or other tool. This will cause more air to enter the lifter assembly and will take more time to bleed out once the lifters are installed.
If new lifters have been installed or the lifters bled down while the engine was disassembled, excessive lifter noise may be experienced. This is a normal condition and no engine damage is occurring. Use the following procedure to purge air from the lifters:
15.1. Start the engine and allow the engine to warm up at idle for 5 minutes.
15.2. Increase the engine speed to 2,000 RPM until the lifter noise is gone.
15.3. Return the engine to idle for an additional 5 minutes or perform a road test.
Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
© 2008 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.
EXHAUST.........
Service Information
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier | Cavalier, Sunfire (VIN J) Service Manual | Engine | Engine Mechanical - 2.4L | Repair Instructions | Document ID: 597406
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Exhaust Camshaft, Housing and Lifter Replacement
Tools Required
• J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter
• J 36011 Spark Plug Boot Remover
Removal Procedure
Important: Any time the camshaft housing to cylinder head bolts are loosened or removed, the camshaft housing to cylinder head gasket must be replaced.
During disassembly, ensure that the valve lifters are kept together and identified so that they can be reinstalled in the original locations.
Before disassembling the valve mechanism, make a compression test and note the results. Refer to Engine Compression Test .
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
Remove the ignition coil and the module assembly. Refer to Ignition Control Module Replacement in Engine Controls.
Disconnect the timing chain housing at the exhaust camshaft housing but do not remove from the parts from the vehicle. Refer to Timing Chain Housing Replacement in Engine Mechanical.
Remove the exhaust camshaft end cover and gasket.
Remove the exhaust camshaft housing to the cylinder head bolts.
Use the reverse of the tightening procedure when loosening the camshaft housing to the cylinder head retaining bolts.
Leave two bolts loosely in place in order to hold the camshaft housing while separating the camshaft cover from the housing.
Important: Tighten the bolts in evenly in order to prevent the cover from binding on the dowel pins.
Push the cover off the housing by threading the four of the housing to head retaining bolts into the tapped holes in the camshaft cover.
Remove the two loosely installed camshaft housing to head bolts.
Remove the cover.
Discard the gaskets.
Loosely reinstall the one camshaft housing to the cylinder head bolt in order to retain the housing during the camshaft and the lifter removal.
Notice the position of the chain sprocket dowel pin for reassembly. Remove the camshaft carefully in order to prevent damage to the camshaft or the journals.
Remove the valve lifters.
Keep the lifters in order so that the lifters can be reinstalled in the original location.
Important:
• These lifters are not serviceable. Replace any faulty lifters.
• Coat the lifter with Camshaft and Lifter Prelube GM P/N 12345501(Canadian P/N 992704) or the equivalent.
If new lifters are installed, add the Engine Oil Supplement GM P/N 1052367( Canadian P/N 992869) or the equivalent to the engine oil.
In order to minimize lifter bleed down, use the following procedure:
• Store lifters upside down (the camshaft contact surface down) on a level surface.
• Store the lifters submerged in clean engine oil.
Important: Ensure that the camshaft housing alignment dowel pins are in the cylinder head prior to installing the housing.
Remove the camshaft housing gasket.
Installation Procedure
Install the camshaft housing to the cylinder head with a new gasket.
Sealer is unnecessary.
Loosely install one camshaft housing to the cylinder head bolt in order to hold the housing in place.
Important:
• Used lifters must be returned to their original position in the camshaft housing.
• If the camshaft is being replaced, the lifters must also be replaced.
Install the lifters into the lifter bores.
Notice: The camshaft lobes and the journals must be adequately lubricated or serious engine damage will occur upon start up.
Lube the camshaft lobes and the journals with the Camshaft and Lifter Prelube GM P/N 12345501(Canadian P/N 992704) or the equivalent.
Install the camshaft in the same position as when removed.
The timing chain sprocket dowel pin should be straight up and line up with the centerline of the lifter bores.
Install the new camshaft housing to the orange camshaft housing cover seals into the cover.
Sealer is unnecessary.
Remove the bolt holding the housing in place.
Apply pipe sealant GM P/N 1052080 (Canadian P/N 10953480) or the equivalent to the camshaft housing and the cover retaining bolt threads.
Install the camshaft housing cover to the camshaft housing.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Use the J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter, in order to install the bolts.
Tighten
• Tighten the camshaft housing to cylinder head bolts to 15 N·m (11 lb ft) + 90 degrees.
• Tighten the camshaft housing cover to camshaft housing bolts to 15 N·m (11 lb ft) + 30 degrees.
Install the timing chain housing to camshaft housing and the timing chain. Refer to Timing Chain Housing Replacement .
Install the exhaust camshaft housing end cover gasket and cover.
Reinstall any spark plugs boot connector assembly that stuck to a spark plug, back onto the ignition coil and module assembly.
Install ignition coil and module assembly. Refer to Ignition Control Module Replacement in Engine Controls.
Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
Important: Do not compress the lifter plungers using a vise or other tool. This will cause more air to enter the lifter assembly and will take more time to bleed out once the lifters are installed.
If new lifters have been installed or the lifters bled down while the engine was disassembled excessive lifter noise may be experienced. This is a normal condition and no engine damage is occurring. Use the following procedure in order to purge the air from the lifters:
16.1. Start the engine and allow to warm up at the idle for 5 minutes.
16.2. Increase the engine speed to 2,000 RPM until the lifter noise is gone.
16.3. Return the engine to idle for an additional 5 minutes or perform a road test.
Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
© 2008 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.
Wow i just read through 7 pages of info and man my eyes r tiard...im am looking for the intake cam now i just got the HO(410 lift) cam and housing hope i can get it in b4 races at the end of the month...
in the begin of this secret cam forum, saids this:
intake confusion
--->GM part #24574239($197.64). If you're looking under hoods, the casting number on the cam is 245/742 (which IS the same number as the 2.4L LD9, but has 0.360" of lift), and the casting number on the cam housing/carrier is 24574057.
0.360" of lift the LD9 one or the secret cam?
I f is the lift for the LD9 what is the lift for the secret cam?
In any part i found the lift for the intake secret cam i might think is 410" is this correct?
exhaust
For the exhaust saids this:
--->GM part #24570698 or #22545390 (a little confusion there)($197.64). The cam casting numbers are 255/455 (which IS the same number as the HO cams, but only has 0.3750" of lift, not 0.410") and the housing/carrier itself is 22542963.
I learn here that the cast number is wrong, the correct one is 225/455.
The exhaust secret cam also have to be 410 lift?
The lobe center is the same for all cams, LD9 ones and secret cams ones?
Thanks and sorry if i don´t understand.
This is another example of wrong information.
exhaust secret cam´s
HERE ARE TWO EXAMPLES ABOUT WRONG INFORMATION
Kevin Bordeaux this guy is a j-body member he sell a secret cam exhaust in ebay, he saids this:
The exhaust cam has 200 degrees @.050 with
.375 lift. That is a higher lift than your stock exhaust cam and this cam rotates 15 degrees more!
Check it out by your self:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320262446247&rd=1
Mastin Snead, this this is a j-body member too and in the classifieds here in j-body.org sell a exhaust secret cam but with this information, HO Exhaust cam (secret+)
.410 lift p.e.(obviously) $70
Check it out:
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/51265/
Some one of these two guys is telling lies or is wrong informed, examples like this are the cause that many people including me don´t know exactly what to get or buy.
Does some body knows the lift for the stock LD9 cams?
so where is this guide again sorry I'm new on the site and having trouble finding it? (secret cam swap)