Umm... the first post of this thread?
...j
Josh Frey wrote:so where is this guide again sorry I'm new on the site and having trouble finding it? (secret cam swap)
Yep but i donīt think you can get many benefits by reading it, seems no body now very well the differences between an HO, SECRET CAMS AND STOCK CAMS.
The first post is good but it can be wonderful if the guy that post it includes the liftīs and durations of the both secret cams and stock ld9 ones.
I have all the specs... on MY computer.... but by computer is in a box right now....
I glanced over the huge list of directions and a lot of it seemed to be BS to me..... when we replaced mine..... we never removed the lifters.... we just left them sitting in the engine where they are supposed to be.... we didn't even remove to cam housings... just the covers..... and you definatley don't have to replace your head gasket.
It's basically....
remove idi cover
Jack up your car,
remove the pass side front wheel, and splash guard,
Support engine with jack on lower motor mount,
remove mounts,
pull pistin #1 spark plug,
make sure piston number one is at TDC and timing marks are lined up
drain your oil.
remove serp belt and crank pully,
remove timing chain cover,
double check timing and lock your cam gears unsing an IDI cover bolt,
remove your power steering pump,
remove timing chain,
loosen your fuel rail,
remove cam covers,
remove cam gears,
pull out cams,
and then put the new cams in and put everything back together..
I typed that from memory.... so It might be a little off...
There are a lot of steps in most directions that you don't have to do (at least i didn't) also... I wouldn't use that as a guid.... just for an idea of whats involved.
I was just gonna post the sam question. Thanx Weebel
Here's a pick of my car with the intake cam out.... you can see what was removed and whats still there....
Sorry... but it's hosted from my myspace page since I don't have access to my computer right now or I'd just upload it and host it from photobucket.... hopefully it works...
people might find it usefull..
WHEEBEL, do you all ready unpack your pc?
I really want to know the lift and duration of the LD9 stock cams?
Seriously dude.. the information on lift specs is in the first post of this thread... for all the common cams that will easily fit the Quad 4's.
From the First post in this thread
Quote:
What I saw was this:
1995 Cam Specs
200 degrees @ .050" with .360" lift for the intake
200 degrees @ .050" with .360" lift for the exhaust
LD2 (1990+) Cam Specs
200 degrees @ .050" with .375" lift for the intake
200 degrees @ .050" with .375" lift for the exhaust
Not sure if thats what your looking for though.....
Soooo pretty much if I swap in the Cams from an older LD9 (1990+), and put them in a 2000 Cavy LS I can expect a couple HP right?
Sorry for the noob question, I just want to make sure.
Thanks.
I got the cams at home and want to do this swap. About how long would it take to re & re both cams???
I did the cam swap on a 2000 Z24 . The motor spun a # 3 rod bearing at 70,000 miles, so a full rebuild was on. I used a new Eagle crank, but the guy at the machine shop drilled the oil holes out to match a 350 small block and chamfered the edges. At a cold start up the motor will peg a 80 lb oil gauge and it never gets below 65lbs even after a hard run The connecting rods were turned .10 under. The head was shaved,and I used Hasting rings, Clevite bearings and Power Pro gaskets.I used the cams from a 1995 Grand Am. I found the cams at a junk yard. I bought the cams and towers, with the lifters for $30.00 bucks. I had to pull the cams myself. The machine shop built the lower end, and I had a local GM dealership do the rest. I got warrenties from both places. The guy at the machine shop suggested that I run 15w/40 Rotella oil. I thought that this was a very thick oil at first, but after 4,000 miles I have not had any trouble.I have did 2 oil changes, 1 at 1,000 miles after the rebuild, and 1 at 3,000 miles. When I did the oil changes I noticed the oil did not look like black water. It still had the look and feel of oil. The machine shop builds some sweet dirt track engines and this is the oil they use and recommend. I noticed a little loss of power at low RPM, but beyond 2500 RPMs she is quick, very quick. Running 7000 RPMs is not a problem. A local GM mechanic told me it was the fastest Z24 he had ever driven. THe only bad thing about the cam swap and rebuild was for me the loss of gas mileage. I went from a mid-30 miles per-gallon ride to 22 miles per gallon. After I got 4,000 miles on it, the best I can get out of it now is 30.23 mpg. I am very satisfied with the the way the car runs. It is really a sleeper. I love the high RPM power that it has now.
Okay, so I threw a lifter and in the process of replacing it my brother cracked my timing case which now has to be replaced as well. We dismantled the car, as per instructions given in the Chilton manual I bought from Checker lol. The front passenger tire and splash guard have been removed, the engine jacked, the mount removed and tomorrow we're taking off the timing case. How much extra work is it going to be, assuming I don't mind pulling the cams from a junk yard, to do the swap?
Thanks all, Ashley.
Incredible Watermelons. . .
If i put the HO cams in my 2.4 will i have valve clearance problems? With out the valve relief pistons?
bc97cavalier
Just wondering, do these secret cams effect the idle of my cavalier and will it make "the racing cam noise"? thanks.
If i put the HO cams in my 2.4 after modding the towers will i have valve clearance problems? With out the valve relief pistons?
bc97cavalier
If your bore it out to run th HO cams what about valve clearance?
bc97cavalier
anyone know how to store these cams for about 2 months, anything i should do? any tips? thanks.
jp falcone wrote:anyone know how to store these cams for about 2 months, anything i should do? any tips? thanks.
I would say spray them with WD40, then wrap them up in something to keep any rust from forming. then when you install them, hit them with some brake cleaner to get the WD40 off.
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has anyone had these cams installed on their cavs? how much did it cost roughly? can you hear them at all or no? thanks.
just got some secret cams. the person i got them from says the intake cam is from a 95 grand am and the exhaust cam is from a 91 grand am. theres little black spots on them like they are worn in spots. would they be fine to install?
also wanting to check if these numbers are right.
intake cam-245 742
exhaust cam-225 455
so the way i understand it, the 1995 2.3 cams are more pronounced than the 1996 2.4's and they wont fit inside the '96 cam towers without modification, correct? if i swapped them in my mpg would drop although power would jump some? so does anyone know approximately how much the power should jump?
reason i ask is i have a 95 2.3 that ticks (supposedly) but i have a 96 2.4 in my grand am that is currently sitting in pieces waiting for parts. im wanting to figure out if it would b worth it to swap the cams in or if i should just wait until i build my other 2.4 block w the 2.3 head on it. although at that point ill prolly get some cams made or find some damn good ones...
ok so i guess i should have read all 8 frickin' pages before posting that question. everything except the HO cams will fit with the stock LD9 cam towers.
STOCK LD9 cams are 0.354 Intake and 0.346 Exhaust, at least thats what i got from quad4forums.
With the '95 2.3L having 0.360 lift on Both Cams
in fact i think i might just swap them while i have the crankshaft out... prehaps ill do it tomorrow when i (hopefully) pick up my connecting rod bolts....
Ok, So i just put secret cams in my car...and i put everything back together it runs like a champ, so much smoother and just overall runs better, but now it sounds liek the timing chain is wrapping loudly.
what do you guys think the problem is, a friend an i put them in and he said the guides and or the tensioner could be the reasoning behind the nose, no i did not replace those, i realize now that i should have due to everything i read on here about the things that need to be changed and stuff on higher mileage motors.
if anyone thinks it could be something else please let me know!
did you reset Your tensioner? That is a common error...
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
hmm no i dont believe that i did that, how do you reset it?