Blah..... i'm in for some more fun. Plus it'll help others to find a cheaper way to do this in the future if they're so inclined to do the swap. I know it's a thing that's done with the 2nd gen clusters. It involves changing a resistor on the board for the cluster... It's just, which one to change, and which one to change it to.
looking for some of your guys thoughts here, the other day my car sat on 1/8 tank over night, went and filled up with gas at sunoco that night the car had the odd spit/sputter, now since then its gotten worse now the cars idling like @!#$(the odd time it will actually idle decent), running like @!#$, and dont go very far. when i drive it it starts missing/sputtering and backfired once around 3000 rpm. come to a stop or let of the gas and the car stalls. where do i start looking for problems? ive put some gas treatment in the tank in case of bad gas(not sure if it could be bad gas or not) i use injector cleaner usually once a month
any thoughts on this?
My 3400 Swap Page
Possibly ignition related. My brothers oldschool 3.1 does that when it gets warm (thinking bad ICM) but it did give out on him once when the CPS took a dump in the middle of BFE
Quiklilcav wrote:Are the 2nd gen gauge motors the same, or are they more of a traditional type? (ours have a sine and cosine function to the motor with 4 conductors).
Forgot to add in the last post. I believe the PH2 gauges are very similar to the 3rd gen cluster (95-99 anyways), if not exactly the same with a different shape. One way or the other, there's got to be some sort of motor that turns that needle. There's gotta be some way to slow it down, or speed it up if you are so inclined.
others have been telling me crank sensor aswell. or coil/ coil module. ill have to check into things.... the only part of your post i didnt get is. what is BFE? somtimes i hate shortforms lol
My 3400 Swap Page
LOL Butt F'ing Egypt. Not a reference to any car part what so ever lol. Video of my swap hopefully tommorrow!
[IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a251/viper15230/100_1374.jpg?t=1193109920[IMG]
RSF98 wrote:others have been telling me crank sensor aswell. or coil/ coil module. ill have to check into things.... the only part of your post i didnt get is. what is BFE? somtimes i hate shortforms lol
BFE was mentioned in the above reply.
It's possible that the ICM is bad too. Like I said, i'm pretty sure my brothers car has a bad ICM, and it sputters real bad and stalls when you let go of the gas. Except when the engine is dead cold. It only does it when the engine warms up. Either way i'm leaning toward that area rather than it being a computer issue (though a scan tool is going to probably come in really handy for you). The ICM will run the ignition totally on it's own, doesn't even need the computer there. The computer will send an override signal once the engine gets over 3-400rpm and take over. Or it's an odd chance that both the sensor and the module have gone bad.
CAREFUL taking the CPS out though if you do. They're very easy to break off. And IIRC, your oil pan has recently been off. If you were to break that sensor off, you'll have to take the pan off again. to get it out. But if you can get it to come right out it should be an easy fix. Hopefully if you change it, the PCM won't whine at you about wanting a CASE learn to be done on it.
Buddy, if it is the crank sensor, remember, its the one on the back of the block, the one behind the crank i already replaced, plus it wouldnt cause a no start condition.
Just to throw some thought in here. On my 3100 harness, i took the white wire which goes to the tach and tried to hook it up to the j harness. I tried splicing into all the j wired which goes to the icm and the tach did not budge. I also tryed hooking it up to an aftermarket tach with also didn't work. So either that white wire is not sending a signal or the tach i had doesen't work. I'd still love to get the stock tach to work so my whole cluster will work like it should and get the total stock look.
660 powered sunfire
gtpsunfire wrote:Buddy, if it is the crank sensor, remember, its the one on the back of the block, the one behind the crank i already replaced, plus it wouldnt cause a no start condition.
A CPS can cause a no start condition. But, if it's recently been replaced I would guess that it's good. And Darren seems to know his @!#$, so even though I've only met him once, I'd probably trust him to work on my car. Since it's been replaced I would take the ICM and see if any of the parts stores around you can test it.
Quote:
Just to throw some thought in here. On my 3100 harness, i took the white wire which goes to the tach and tried to hook it up to the j harness. I tried splicing into all the j wired which goes to the icm and the tach did not budge.
I dont think the wire colors are the same on the Jbody and the 660 harnesses. So the white wire might not be the tach wire.
well its been an inconsistant problem, today i changed the fuel filter and so far its been running fine, hopfully it stays running fine and the sputter stays away, if not ill check the coil packs/ module, coil packs are the same as the 2.2's aswell, and i have a spare icm now so if it comes down to it ill start swaping stuff in, but im hoping that the dirty/origional looking filter that was on there was the problem
My 3400 Swap Page
SHOoff wrote:
I dont think the wire colors are the same on the Jbody and the 660 harnesses. So the white wire might not be the tach wire.
I know the colors are diffent, on the 3100 the white wire goes to the tach according to the schematic. I couldn't find a wire on the j shcematic which goes to the tach. All i found was a data link wire which goes to the instrument cluster from the ECM. Maybe i'll try to find a 2nd gen cluster and try to retro fit some parts from it in my cluster.
660 powered sunfire
There shouldn't be a tach signal wire going to the C100 connector to the engine. (i know i've seen a tach signal wire on the 2.4 diagrams). The engine speed comes through the datastream from the PCM to the cluster just like some of the warning lights and the coolant temp. So it's likely that the 3100 PCM doesn't have the info in the correct spots for the tach signal and that's why it isn't reading.
were almost at 1000 posts!
Thats because this thread is the bee's knees.
[IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a251/viper15230/100_1374.jpg?t=1193109920[IMG]
I'm REALLY interested in seeing how this all turns out. I'm planning on running custom gauges myself, but it would be nice to see someone do it with stock ones intact.
ANYMORE PIC UPDATES????
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090440
NIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIICE... I think i just tinkled...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090440
Wait until it actually starts coming together if you go through with it. You will be very happy
On a side note, I really need someone to take a picture under the dash of there clutch pedal my spring came out and I cant figure out for the life of my how to get it back in there! It would be greatly appreciated and possibly rewarded
[IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a251/viper15230/100_1374.jpg?t=1193109920[IMG]
Hey could you take some pics of your wiring if you dont mind just give me somewhere to start!
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090440
