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I blew a heater hose on the highway and lost coolant and MS only reads to 260
Thats weird. The gauge will only read up to 215* on mine. That's how I overheated mine once. But it didn't warp anything.
But anywho, I see I have been running EXTREMELY rich, my pistons and exhaust ports were pitch black
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But anywho, I see I have been running EXTREMELY rich, my pistons and exhaust ports were pitch black,
You should be. If you're running my tune it's for a bigger and better flowing engine. Unless you've turned down the fuel it's gonna run rich. I'm pretty sure it runs a bit on the rich side for me anyways. All you gotta do is watch your correction factor if you've only got a NB. It's gonna swing around. Set your correction to 10 and then the gauge will move between 90% (running rich) and 110% (running lean). You'll want it to stay in between those. I prefer to set mine up to not hit those numbers, but it's hard to do. You can set it to 5 and go between 95 and 105 if you're a badass.
Haha, ya my mistake I meant 215 as well. I see im not the only one who had the problem then.
And I set my correction to 50 I think.
Im gonna hopefully get it out on the road today, do some logs and us MSTweak3000 to make myself a new VE table.
I actually had someone go with me in my car. At some points I just reached over and played with the laptop myself.
Well havent gotten it back on the road yet. But should be tommorrow. I ended up having to order in the new seals and head bolts, then the girl ordered me head bolts for a 95 grand prix 3.4 dohc.. Needless to say they didnt fit at all so I had to return them today and got everything put back on. Battery was dead so I have not started it yet. But you can guarentee it will be started tommorrow. And I want to get a video so everyone here can see how amazing the car sounds haha.
Ever stood next to a nascar when they reved it? Its sorta similar to that. I need to quiet it down, but I love it to much
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Ever stood next to a nascar when they reved it? Its sorta similar to that. I need to quiet it down, but I love it to much
Perhaps an exhaust system would be good.
But yeah.......
awaiting video.
A little bit more costly than the 3400 just for the engine i'm sure.
Can somebody tell me the stock 3400 exhaust diamteter size? I've now changed most of my plans, My car will get the stock 3400, and all factory exhaust equipment to keep it quiet.
downpipe is a hair under 2.25 for the inner (its a layered pipe), that's all I know for sure
Probably the same all the way back.
I seem to have a parasitic drain on my battery. Every morning when I got out to my car the battery is completely dead. I dont know where it would be coming from or if there is any way to find out. Anyone else experienced this? Im pretty confused about it right now.
Im sure it probably isnt anything to do with the swap. However for the alternator the plug has one wire going off of it and I was told its a 12 volt reference to tell the regulator to output or whatnot. So I have it hooked into a wire that is 12 volts when in run. It made sense to me, however it has a high pitched ringing coming from the alternator when the car is off. It sounds like some resistance is going on somewhere and Im wondering if maybe thats what is causing my drain?
That could be it... the 12v reference comes from the PCM, IIRC. Since you are running MS, I can't say whether or not that wire is possible.
If you have a DMM, undo the ground cable from the battery (once charged), put the positive side wire from the DMM on the battery terminal, neg DMM wire on the cable and set to amps DC.
It should read .1 amps or less (or -.1 depending on the current flow). Any more than that, and it exponentially decreases the held charge on the battery. After the initial check, unplug the alt and test again. If your amperage drops, that's more than likely the problem component.
I also purchased a
J-38758 from eBay for about $35 or so... works as a good battery cutoff/load tester
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It made sense to me, however it has a high pitched ringing coming from the alternator when the car is off. It sounds like some resistance is going on somewhere and Im wondering if maybe thats what is causing my drain?
That's not good. Believe it or not, if the alternator isn't hooked up correctly the alternator itself will sit there and draw a load on the battery when it's not running.
On my setup I have that reference wire hooked to pink wire leading to the fuel injectors. I'm guessing that it's powering the alternator, and with the injection running it's actually acting l like PWM with the voltage drop in that line, but i'm not sure.
Correct way of wiring it is to a 12v source for when they key is in RUN, but also you need to have a resistor of some source in that line. Typically cars are wired (at least older ones) with the battery light in that line, which makes the alternator excite. I'm not exactly sure, but I am looking into how to do so right now.
Looking at my wiring diagrams, my alternator is supposed to run into the stock ECM. I plan on moving the alternator wires to it for 2 reasons. 1) To get the battery light to go out on my dash. 2) To have proper control over the alternator through the ECM. Problem is, if the ECM doesn't sense that the car is running, I do not know if it will cause the alternator to excite. If it doesn't then i'll have to figure something else out.
Hmm Jason I wonder if on my setup since I have the relay board and it has 4 connectors for the 12V power for the injectors and since I am only using 2 of them, if I could run that wire into one of the remaining terminals there. Problem is, last night I unhooked the plug from the battery, came out this morning, had enough power for the dome light and radio, but not any amps to crank. I dont know what else to check.
SHOoff-
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Looking at my wiring diagrams, my alternator is supposed to run into the stock ECM. I plan on moving the alternator wires to it for 2 reasons. 1) To get the battery light to go out on my dash. 2) To have proper control over the alternator through the ECM. Problem is, if the ECM doesn't sense that the car is running, I do not know if it will cause the alternator to excite. If it doesn't then i'll have to figure something else out.
IMO you should run it to the pcm controlling the engine because amp draw will lower the rpms and the pcm will correct that --if i remember on mine- i ran an additional wire from the alternator to my j-pcm to show current from the alteranor, which turned off the light
I ran into the same problem after my swap. From what i learned, the alternator needs 12v to kick it on and charge, after it's on you can petty much disconnect that wire and it will still charge. For the heck of it, i tried connecting those 2 brown wires to the stock alternator wires and it works, even the charge indicator work.
660 powered sunfire
How did everyone solve the problem of the engine being lower on one side than the other when bolted in? I saw that one guy had about an inch shaved off the mount. if I use the 3100 upper mount from a 94 Grand Am, I should be ok with the engine sitting level correct?
Also what is it you guys mean when you say IIRC? I've seen it posted countless times and don't know what it is...
IIRC = if I recall correctly
I'm going to make a spacer to go under the J mount to raise up the front of the engine.
The older N-bod mount bolts from the side, so I guess it could be used if you drill through the frame rail
I noticed about a 1/2" difference in height between the 2... I guess there's differences between some of the vehicles
Yeah it shouldn't be to hard to fab up a litle spacer to stick in there. I've read the sticky, over and over, but somethings get forgotten before I finish reading, lol.
