I was looking at the pics and thinking the same. The 20G upgrades that I've seen had a spacer.
Accel yellow tops is what came with my Hahn Stg II kit. I have to check the model # on the box , its either 36# or 42#
FML
Is that to clear the water pump/therm. housing?
I had to dremel the compressor housing a tiny bit, and it's still toughing.
And yeah, the hahn injectors are #40-42. I did the math, and at 9psi I need to run fuel at 37psi with these injectors. FML again. The Injectors don't fit into my 03-05 head, strike out.
Were the plastic pieces in the head different for the 00-02 rail?
His order form had siper 20g checked on it, but then again he was all weird about stuff on the form and what he actually got. Like the injectors, and aux pump he claimed didn't come with the kit, but they were checked on the form. He's either BSing the form, or his race shop ripped him off. I think its the latter.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
I'd have to measure...
You can get the spacer from Hahn.
Now that I look at your manifold vs mine, I see your studs to mount the turbo are long...
The long ones are to accomidate the spacer.
So it looks like all you need is the spacer and gaskets.
Contact hahn.
The true way to tell the 20G Vs. 16G is to measure the inducer and exducer of the compressor wheel. IIRC, someone somewhere at one point and time was offering a "stealth upgrade" to make a 20G out of a 16G while keeping the same style compressor cover. The 16G cover can be machined out to accept the 20G wheel while keeping the stock looks of a 16G turbo. So in theory you could have a 20G turbo. As for the injector spacers, Contact Jason Norwood. He makes and sells them.
Never run your injectors, especially stock ones, up to 90 PSI!!! I wouldnt run anything much above 70 PSI or so unless they were designed for it. Your injectors could start clipping and that's a very bad thing.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
I'm saying that these deka IV's... they're #60 and designed to run to 90+psi (I think they're about 1000cc at 90psi)
the hahn ones are #40
I need to run them at 38-40psi to equal 85-90 on hahn's #40 injectors. At least by my calculations. Leaves little use for my FMU unless I go higher boost. I might bump it up to 10 or 11 just to keep acceptable fuel pressure. I'll find out when I start it up if I need to do that.
Just left the yard. Got another sending unit, less than the dorman repair stuff, plus I got a bunch of little bits and pieces. I took the plastic clips off of a saturn 01 ecotec. They fit over my deka IV's, but without an o-ring. I have no idea how this guy was running these injectors. I'll post pics when I get back home, but by spacers do you mean in the head or at the rail?
Is there a way to tell if its a 20g by any sort of stamping on the center housing? Or is the only difference the compressor housing/compressor?
God I should have just built my own setup. I'm putting in just as much work, and more money ahaha.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
@Roofy. I'll sqeeze the micometer in there when I get home.
If it is in fact a 20G, What's wrong without running a spacer? Theres about .5mm clearance after my dremeling to my engine, and it looks like the exhaust bolts right up. I really just don't want to go through that expierience of touring the bolts on the turbo by feel with a box end. Gave me goosebumps.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
The spacer is just for clearance with the larger 20G compressor housing usually used with them. Its super easy to convert these to 20G specs.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Ahh, whatever. I guess I'll figure it out when the boost gauge reads 5-6 or 8-9, those are the waste gate settings in the hahn bible I believe.
Just want to get this thing running so I can give my dad his car back. Ordered a cheap boost controller, in case I have to run my stock injectors for a bit, then ill just run 4-5psi.
Got another sending unit from the yard for my winter build... to involve fancy braided lines everywhere. Great thing is that there's some Toyota tails waiting for me there. This same cavi had a magnaflow cat back on it. Still shiny, I thought I hit the jackpot. Spent 15-20 minutes trying to get it off because you cant bring power tools in the yard. Then I see the entire muffler had a huge crack down the seam.
Status update tomorrow evening.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Dont run your stock injectors with ANY boost.
PJ did a test a long while back and they are pretty much maxed from factory.
The amount of boost you see doesn't determine the turbo size. I've seen pretty much any Mitsubishi turbo run from 6-15 psi from the factory depending on the wastegate. And a boost controller won't let you see less boost than the wastegate is set at. If you have a wastegate set at 7 psi, you can see anywhere from 7 psi up to as much as the engine and turbo will support. But never less.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Yes....maybe so..but pressure is a measure of resistance to flow. now how powerful something is.
For instance I made 12 psi with my supercharger, but now since intercooling and a header I make 9 but make more power.
Yeah I'm only worried about psi for some crazy hypothesis that it will tell me if it's a 20g or a 16g.
I know pressure is pressure, and there's all the equations to get more air blah blah. PSI does not equal HP, I know.
To the bat cave! Stay tuned late tonight for pictures.
-Swapping fuel sending units.
-DIY RACETRONIX HARNESS (it will be short, to the battery in the trunk.)
-Test fitting my injectors with my yard clips.
-Getting exhaust flange done (from the cat-- its taken me an hour so far to separate, grind the bolts. I'm now drilling the bolts out to take the hahn downpipe.
-Install Fuel Pressure sending unit (which means find a valve stem remover
where? and a female to female)
-Some interior work -- gauges, routing computer inside car.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Switched from inagechack to photobucket. Test upload
Snagged this at the yard. No clue what was going on here, but this was hanging off a 99 cavi's ODB port.
Some solid relays and holders, great for my harness!
Yay! My camera now uploads directly to photobucket. so much easier than dealing with iPhoto, importing, exporting, blah blah. That took me 10 seconds
This was on my GRI VR6, thinking about fitting it to my car. It sounded really friggin' beefy. Then again, it was on a VR6
I'm bringing back way to many good memories going through my photobucket album.
This was a terrible idea. Sounds good in theory, but getting that out of the driveway took a pickup, a sawzall, and 8 hrs. (30-40 little gti pieces in a pickup truck ahaha)
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Here's my clearance, and a good shot of the compressor housing stamping. I have no clue what it means.
Swapped the pump into a new sending unit because the quick clips were messed up. I'd post a pic, but pictures of gas tanks aren't that exciting. Putting a stock fuel filter on, and running the factory harness while I work on this harness upgrade since I have a spare harness.
Gotta run to the other side of town to look at a 04 with rod knock. Look's flawless in the pictures, but its missing the bumpers, and a tailight. Tail light is no big deal, but finding bumpers, especially if its not stock paint is a pain. I told him $600, he said come on out, so This will be my winter build car hopefully. If not, going to look at a super nice shell tomorrow, but its just a shell. a body and wheels, no windows, interior, dash, steering wheel etc... (mid east section)
Pics of injectors right underneath. Does that look like an 02 clip?
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
HAHAHA gosh, sometimes I just don't think. Injectors fit like a glove, they always have. I didn't take out the plastic clips:
(from
http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?14362-2002-Eco-Swap #4)
Quote:
as for the injectors, i was informed that the 02 rail is better and the 02 injectors were a tad bigger. so i swapped all my 02 stuff onto the 03 motor. the only thing you have to do is make sure that you take out the plastic spacer things from the block where the injectors go in. then the 02 injectors will fit, if you don't then you will be scratching ur head wondering why the rail wont sit all the way down. also depending on how many miles the new motor has, now would be a good time to do your timing. ie. getting a new chain, guides, tensioner especially, and so on. and also do any other internal mods will it's out. I went ahead and did my balance shaft delete will it was out and replaced all the timing stuff.
My exact situation.
now they work lol.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Well according to the numbers on the compressor cover, its a TD06 20G compressor cover and wheel. Can u get me the casting numbers on the turbine housing???
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
While youre at it, do your best to get me a straight on pic of the compressor wheel and measure the inlet if you could.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
These are 1 step colder BTW? Fuel Rail is officially done too. weeee just need to figure out where to up the sender. Most likely on the 'in' side of the FMU with AN-npt T fitting thing.
Turbine housing Yeah I can fit in tiny places. ahaha:
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
NGK LTR6IX-11 is the correct 1 step colder plug. Ecos only seem to like AcDelco and NGK plug.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, August 13, 2012 4:49 AM
yay