LTR6IX-11 (aka NGK 6509) came in today, along with a new turbo flange gasket. No copper coating this time, have a backup copper manifold and flange gasket coming in next week for my winter build if this doesn't leak.
The feed sprung a leak after about 20 miles... the line got punctured somehow, so I replaced it with a beefier one.
My oil drain is in fact leaking... slowly, but overnight there's a nice puddle. I'm not tapping the girdle on this engine, but I dropped a spare pan off to have a bung tig welded in. (Clean it before you do, I'm out $10... apparently oil catches on fire when you weld pans
)
Braided steel going in for the drain. It's too close to my drive axle for comfort.
QUESTION:
The entire engine is supposed to get really hot right? If not, I may have a problem. I have a feeling that it's fine, but I can now burn myself on my valve cover after some spirited driving... Oh and I lit a cigarette off my exhaust housing last night (took a couple minutes). Lost my lighter. I think engine temps may drop when I get the gasket leaks taken care of.
Pics to follow when I'm not hungover.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
I see you have a Cavalier calibration tool on the valve cover there...
Anyone who has he capability to weld aluminum should know that if oil was something the part normally came in contact with oil e.i. Valve cover or oil pan that it should be baked off with a torch or baked in an oven. Otherwise not only is the weld caked with conamination but it won't be as strong. Why are you out$10. N you wouldn't happen to own a crappy craftsmen floor jack that leaks out of the rear of the pump all the dam time would you?
Talking about my cheater bar lol? I do own a craftsman floor jack, but it's my good one, and it doesn't leak.
(I'm out $10 because they need to wash the oil out before they weld it--they told me I could bring it back after I cleaned it myself, but I'm lazy)
Well, I dropped the pan off at the machine shop, who has to wash it, then they're pawning it off to their welder down the road. It's a reputable shop, so I'm sure it will be fine, I just told them to call me the instant it may go over $30, as that shouldn't really happen.
I'm still concerned about this hot engine thing. Everything's making creekie cracky noises after I turn it off, and it gives me shivers. No timer, I let it idle for about a minute then its off.... I'm sitting in the car typing this lol, there it goes again. That one was definitely an exhaust pipe. Heat-soak scares me.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
I've had nothing but issues with the craftsmen jack leaking....I need to buy a replacement. I'm sure the pan will be ok since it's an actual shop not a guy your buddy knows.
If its not 100 years old take it to sears and whine like a menstruating 14 year old. They'll give you a new one no questions asked. Always worked for me, at least with hand tools... and a welder.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Not so much by me, a lot of their stuff isn't under warentee anymore and is made in china...we swapped this one out shortly after the first one had the same issue. No biggie, I just top it off everyonce and a while and ll is well.
You will need a THIN bead of engine sealant to make the new oil pan gasket seal.
For the turbo you can get a cheap one most places you Google. I ordered a copper one off of I think its ffwdconnection.com $20 shipped but they were all around that price shipped so I went with the better material.
Might be getting hot from running lean. The noise you hear is probably the exhaust tinging sound. Just expansion and contraction. Its normal.
Yeah I threw a new steel gasket on, and all is well.
JUCNBST wrote:Not so much by me, a lot of their stuff isn't under warentee anymore and is made in china...we swapped this one out shortly after the first one had the same issue. No biggie, I just top it off everyonce and a while and ll is well.
Damn China.
BuiltNBoosted wrote:You will need a THIN bead of engine sealant to make the new oil pan gasket seal.
For the turbo you can get a cheap one most places you Google. I ordered a copper one off of I think its ffwdconnection.com $20 shipped but they were all around that price shipped so I went with the better material.
Might be getting hot from running lean. The noise you hear is probably the exhaust tinging sound. Just expansion and contraction. Its normal.
Unless my sensor is bad, I'm running a bit rich right now. I'll double check my logs.
May be that I haven't swapped plugs yet. It's not extremely hot, so I'm just guessing that it's normal since I'm now running oil through my exhaust... sorta.
And how thin are we talking? I already dropped the 1st, and put it back up... but I used like half a tube of rtv black.
EDIT
This blown gasket is making sense now. I never put a spacer in the manifold. The compressor housing is touching the water neck. I don't think there's enough clearance to tighten down the bolts all the way, hence why the bottom blew out and why I'm putting my money the same thing is going to happen again.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, August 26, 2012 12:38 PM
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Contact hahn for the spacer. Problem solved.
Even better I'm going to try and mill my own tomorrow. Gives me an excuse to go over my ex's house and annoy her.
I'll end up ordering that though haha. Thanks Roofy, good find.
I just took a look at this guys water neck, and he took maybe a quarter inch off where it contacts. A bit scary and confusing on why his shop/mechanic did that instead of installing the spacer. I'm guessing this is the same mechanic that built his engine. The engine I bought for 20 cents to the dollar of parts (forged internals, comp cams, patriot II) BECAUSE the black front timing guide hold down bolt got ripped out somehow. All the timing pieces seem intact too. Hmm.
I'll post a picture of the actual fail point soon, maybe someone can shed light on to how that can happen. Not really important, but interesting, and I need to know if I can drill and tap it.
(pics of timing
here for reference)
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
THIN THIN THIN layer around the oil pan... id hate to see how much you have squished into the pan. Its a zero tolerance fit. perfect metal surface against perfect metal surface. doesnt take much AT ALL.
BuiltNBoosted wrote:THIN THIN THIN layer around the oil pan... id hate to see how much you have squished into the pan. Its a zero tolerance fit. perfect metal surface against perfect metal surface. doesnt take much AT ALL.
Thank you. Ill remember that when I swap the pans next oil change. I'm kinda scared to find rtv in my filter or something now.
And good call on the plugs, heres a picture of the OE plug, then the NGK's, then the autolite 103's that somehow fit according to someone in the N20 section, I'll try and find the post and post this pic.
OE
NGK #6509 (1 step colder -- LTR6IX-11
AutoLite 103...... lol
Trying to fix my vac leak...
EDIT: What seems wrong to you in this last picture????? ^
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, August 28, 2012 5:56 PM
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
No hole for the IAC valve. And I told ya the autolites wouldn't fit.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Roofy wrote:No hole for the IAC valve. And I told ya the autolites wouldn't fit.
DING DING DING! We have a winner!
I really need to meet this guys mechanic and give him a big high slap-in-the-face.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
I hate (love) being that guy buuuut... i told ya so (about the oild drain
) At least you're getting it sorted out by having it welded, good job.
Thrice . wrote:I hate (love) being that guy buuuut... i told ya so (about the oild drain ) At least you're getting it sorted out by having it welded, good job.
It's a well deserved I-told-you-so. It sure does take long for em to get it done though, haven't heard a word from em since I dropped it off. Probably had to order the bung I need or something. I'm in no rush. Half a quart a day keeps the doctor away!
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
You need a iac hole for sure. or it wont idle good and a big one at that.
see ya!
Okay time for an update. No pics, just some info.
The oil pan is still at the shop... I finally got a call over the weekend that they went over my $30 budget, and it's going to run $45
I told them that if they can't do it for $40, then to give me my pan back. Then I reached down and my brass adapter in my pan is completely loose. Although, it wasn't leaking more than a few drops a day still, I called them back and put a rush on the pan. Hoping That it will get done before the weekend, and it better be a sexy freaking weld for $45, otherwise I'll leave it there and tap the girdle.
I get 32mpg highway! Maiden voyage to Cincinnati and the car ran great. I thought I would loose gas mileage, and I did... 19 city lol. But I actually went from 28 highway to 32, which is great.
L61 manifold is going back on. I hate this adapter plate thing, and I don't think its that big of a downgrade.
Pics of new drain to come, along with 3rd gauge mount progress. Breaking out the glass for the first time in 2 years --- boo yah.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Update time...
Trans went bad. Took it as an opportunity to fix this clearance issue, and route some wires and the drain better.
The oil pan is uhm... "wtf?!" The bung is welded right next to the drain. They had to machine the drain plug mating surface because they're stupid and got weld on it.
Time to think about taping the girdle since the block is out. Also getting a spacer in there finally haha. Any creative ideas for the bottom end? I have a short block sitting here, but I'm a little weary, as I don't know how many problems I'll run into with it. I need this car running in a month and not breaking down.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
tap the damn girdle!!! That is the right way.
FU Tuning
