I have all this with my no mile LSJ bottom just like yours but I was scared of the 8 bolt crank and the clutch not working.
The diameter of the flywheel is larger and me not having a place to leave my car at if it doesn't run I thought I would wait for someone to try something with it first.
Thanks buddy.
I have a forged bottom end thanks to you, an oil cooler, forged crank, piston squirters, and 60-2.
How definite are you on the clutch acctually working properly?
What EMS box are you planning on running?
Good luck.
Best time:"""11.946""" @ 114.73 mph @17psi 1.83--60"
11 second daily driver!!!!
Race Related 727-561-9440
Shop of choice for your 11 second J body!
Also, built bottom end and or top end LSJ and L61's available.
13's
----12's
----11's
----10's
SunCavi_L61-T4 wrote:I have all this with my no mile LSJ bottom just like yours but I was scared of the 8 bolt crank and the clutch not working.
The diameter of the flywheel is larger and me not having a place to leave my car at if it doesn't run I thought I would wait for someone to try something with it first.
Thanks buddy.
I have a forged bottom end thanks to you, an oil cooler, forged crank, piston squirters, and 60-2.
How definite are you on the clutch acctually working properly?
What EMS box are you planning on running?
Good luck.
"
supposedly the L61 and LE5 flywheels are actually thinner than the LSJ by about 1/8".. which is why there is a ~1/8" spacer on the LSJ with a f35...
the way i see it, all ecotec's blocks are the same (minus some minor differences) but the transmission will bolt onto all ecotec's, so the only thing you need to worry about is the thickness of the clutch/flywheel..
This might be the reason why LSJ's have that shim that NEEDs to be between the trans and engine during clutch replacement
SunCavi_L61-T4 wrote:I have all this with my no mile LSJ bottom just like yours but I was scared of the 8 bolt crank and the clutch not working.
The diameter of the flywheel is larger and me not having a place to leave my car at if it doesn't run I thought I would wait for someone to try something with it first.
Thanks buddy.
I have a forged bottom end thanks to you, an oil cooler, forged crank, piston squirters, and 60-2.
How definite are you on the clutch acctually working properly?
What EMS box are you planning on running?
Good luck.
good to see ur still around yasmin.
i'm gonna be running the spectre eMS (basically a fancied-up megasquirt)
and the clutch issue i'm about 90% sure will work right because I took overall measurements from the face of the engine mating surface to the tips of the clutch actuator springs and they were within 1/32" or so... but I won't know for sure until I push the clutch for the first time and pray for full disengagement, and conversely pray for full engagement when I let the clutch out.
worst case scenario, i'd have to pick up an LSJ spacer for the F35, but I'm fairly confident it will work properly with the F23 without the spacer.
first startup is coming soon. I'm hoping to buy the last part I need tomorrow to start working on the car again and finally start wrapping things up so I can undertake the long arduous task of wiring the stand alone.. which is only the precursor to programming it.. which is the precursor to tuning the bitch.
So I am guessing you don't have the spacer? I do I got it with the motor and the tranny. So you think it should be safe.
I think I just might wait for you to do it, since you are already deep in the swap, I mean makes no sense for both of us to hit a brick wall with it. lol
Will that particular EMS work with JUST the crank angle sensor and NO cam angle sensor? Do you know since you are going with the L61 head.
I can do it either or way same for me I have both heads.
As far the LSJ head and the intake flange being different all you have to do is tap and block off that little hole in the middle of the intake flange because
there will be a little oil coming out since the cam windage. the bigger rectangular holes between the intake ports are fine, they are dead ends.
Just make sure you seal with silicone properly, or in your case since you are using the stock manni you should be fine.
But for you I guess it is water under the bridge now.
P.S I even have the LSJ wiring harness so I can take any pig tails I need off it, say for the crank and stuff. I am anxious now.
Yea I am alive. lol
SunCavi
Best time:"""11.946""" @ 114.73 mph @17psi 1.83--60"
11 second daily driver!!!!
Race Related 727-561-9440
Shop of choice for your 11 second J body!
Also, built bottom end and or top end LSJ and L61's available.
13's
----12's
----11's
----10's
SunCavi_L61-T4 wrote:So I am guessing you don't have the spacer? I do I got it with the motor and the tranny. So you think it should be safe.
I think I just might wait for you to do it, since you are already deep in the swap, I mean makes no sense for both of us to hit a brick wall with it. lol
yea true lol. I'm hoping tthat some amount of leeway is allowed for the hydraulic system (the self adjusting feature of our clutches) so it should allow some difference between the two. We'll see I guess..
Quote:
Will that particular EMS work with JUST the crank angle sensor and NO cam angle sensor? Do you know since you are going with the L61 head.
I can do it either or way same for me I have both heads.
yes it will. It only needs a crank angle in order to run a DIS system. Although It cannot do the LSJ's direct coil-on-plug ignition for some reason (apparently there's still development of the code for MS that runs 4 ignition coil channels or something to this effect)
Quote:
As far the LSJ head and the intake flange being different all you have to do is tap and block off that little hole in the middle of the intake flange because
there will be a little oil coming out since the cam windage. the bigger rectangular holes between the intake ports are fine, they are dead ends.
I don't want to do that because the hole you're plugging is part of the PCV system. Without this opening, crankcase pressure will have no vent, and will force oil out of the breather on the valve cover.. also oil tends to sludge up in the block and become corrosive. I believe extra crankcase pressure can cause blow-by also and excess oil burn.
Quote:
P.S I even have the LSJ wiring harness so I can take any pig tails I need off it, say for the crank and stuff.
I'm running the LSJ with all L61 electronics.. non of the LSJ sensors are being reused.. its going to be all jbody sensors. They'll work just the same.
Also, some of the LSJ sensors are digital rather than analog, so I'm unsure of how they will interface with my eMS... so I'm playing it safe and using the L61 stuff. The only real LSJ part I swapped in was the complete rotating assembly, the block, and the clutch. Everything else is L61 stuff (head, oil pan, F23 trans, Jbody clutch actuator (slave cylinder), L61 cams, L61 mounts, L61 pullies, L61 tensioner, L61 alternator, starter, etc)
Are you using fully fuel-resistant hose in the fuel tank for your fuel pickup??? regular fuel hose, wether rated for fuel or not, will deteriorate from the outside in if immersed in gasoline. I"m not trying to tell you what to do, but If I were you, I'd use nylon or metal tubing for the fuel pickup in the tank to avoid any problems. Otherwise, bad@ss setup!!! Good luck.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
I wanna use the LSJ head as well since of what I am planning on doing. Good stuff man thanks.
SunCavi
Best time:"""11.946""" @ 114.73 mph @17psi 1.83--60"
11 second daily driver!!!!
Race Related 727-561-9440
Shop of choice for your 11 second J body!
Also, built bottom end and or top end LSJ and L61's available.
13's
----12's
----11's
----10's
Correct me if I am wrong there is no way to use the LSJ thermostat housing. I have the LSJ one L61 one and the 2007 L61 one.
All three different I have capabilities to mod.
Thanks
SunCavi
Best time:"""11.946""" @ 114.73 mph @17psi 1.83--60"
11 second daily driver!!!!
Race Related 727-561-9440
Shop of choice for your 11 second J body!
Also, built bottom end and or top end LSJ and L61's available.
13's
----12's
----11's
----10's
I'd just like to let everyone know that i'm still lurking in this thread.
SunCavi_L61-T4 wrote:Correct me if I am wrong there is no way to use the LSJ thermostat housing. I have the LSJ one L61 one and the 2007 L61 one.
All three different I have capabilities to mod.
Thanks
SunCavi
unfortunately no, it runs into the shifter cable bracket on the transmission by about a half inch. Unless you seriously cut up and re-weld the thermo housing, it won't fit.
The L61 thermo housing has to be used with the F23.. and not the 07... that didn't fit either when I tried it. HAS to be a jbody thermo housing.
very small update today. I began getting ready for the wiring of the stand alone ecu today. Since I'm doing what you could call a 3/4 install (retaining the factory ecu for faux emissions and gauge control, as well as sub-systems), I have to plan very carefully how I'm going to integrate the eMS into the factory wiring and sensors. All in all I'm pretty confident in the plan I have thus far. I've also managed to make a realization today:
I can eliminate the ICM.
since I want to get rid of the factory ignition again, i'm going to go back to the external MSD coils, and ditch the wasted spark 'coil on plug' setup once and for all.
I'll be testing my theory out soon enough. I plan on beginning the wiring this weekend.
Will you be at the bash this year again PJ? I want to see this thing in person
Proud member of Jbody of Kentucky ... Click on sig to go!
DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:
very small update today. I began getting ready for the wiring of the stand alone ecu today. Since I'm doing what you could call a 3/4 install (retaining the factory ecu for faux emissions and gauge control, as well as sub-systems), I have to plan very carefully how I'm going to integrate the eMS into the factory wiring and sensors. All in all I'm pretty confident in the plan I have thus far. I've also managed to make a realization today:
I can eliminate the ICM.
since I want to get rid of the factory ignition again, i'm going to go back to the external MSD coils, and ditch the wasted spark 'coil on plug' setup once and for all.
I'll be testing my theory out soon enough. I plan on beginning the wiring this weekend.
If the 2000+ is the same as the Pre-00 stuff then you should be able to strip just about everything.
At this point the stock PCM only controls the speedometer and the coolant temp gauge in my car. I haven't got my stock tach working yet, which i'm playing around with. To keep your coolant gauge, you'll need to get a 3 wire coolant sensor. GM PN# 10096181. Or you can order it for a 93 Cavalier w/ 2.2. Unless your configuration has come up with somehow giving you 2 places to put a CTS. It also had a bit more thread on it and is a bit deeper, so it bottomed out in the hole on my car at least, it appears that it's not in all the way because of the extra threads hanging out. You can't hook your stock PCM and the MS off of the 2 wire sensor, if you do there's too much draw on that line and MS will start to pick up something like 83* coolant temp when it's all the way warmed up. Which keeps MS in warmup mode, and it doesn't run too great.
Same thing will happen if you try to hook both computers to the ICM for a tach pulse. Except the MS won't see a pulse, which prevents it from running the injectors, which prevents the engine from running.
Hope i'm some sort of help at least.
Keep it up PJ...
Wanna see what this high R/S motor is capable of! (A FLUIDAMPER, OR ATI may be needed LOL)
_________________________________________________________________
EFFICIENCY DETECTIVE
Fast cars. I respect them ALL. Brand elitism is for fanbois and benchracers
daily: 99 civic Si
deceased: 95 cavy '00 LD9 auto swap (vandalized)
Almost 10 days without an update PJ, your slacking.
He is working on the hardest part lol...
I wonder if PJ watches his own vids to motivate him to work on HIS car? Because I know they get me pumped to work on mine... Keep it up man.
Bump
Caution: I have an odd sense of humor, so don't be offended by the things I say
MMMM, HIDs
ok guys update:
I'm one of the lucky few who have to work this weekend, so i'm taking advantage of the situation.
I'm ordering the final part I need to get the car back on its feet this thursday. I'm going to finally begin wiring in the stand alone sat/sun.
I'm moving around pretty much EVERYTHING under the hood, so its going to be a long process.. part of the reason why the last steps have been taking me so long.
I've finished the fuel lines, and mounted the AFPR, the lines are cut to length and run. It looks pretty sweet. Also much easier to service should I ever need to do so in the future.
I also need to mount and wire up my fuel pump.. which reminds me I need to order lines and fittings for that as well. But this is small details, the wiring under the hood is my largest task now and I can see about 85% of it being completed this weekend.
pictures to come soon.
Finally.....
j/k Great work, I might have to enlist your help sometime.
DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:I'm one of the lucky few who have to work this weekend.
That sounds like an oxymoron.LOL
Caution: I have an odd sense of humor, so don't be offended by the things I say
MMMM, HIDs
FAST2.4 P wrote:Where did you do all this work?
this question is asked about 8 times in this thread alone.. I'm thinking about adding this detail to my signature.
I do the work at my job. its a manufacturing plant and I have access to our obsolete machine shop.
