a lot of wiring.
basically, the plan is the control unit is to be mounted in the car, I'm wiring into all the major sensors (IAT, ECT, TPS, WBO2, (i'm eliminating the narrowband), RPM, CPS, MAP, KS) for the stand alone.
I'm going to use HPT to go into the factory ecu and disable all the CELs and trouble codes associated with these sensors. as some of you will notice who have used HPT, that pretty much wipes out all of the factory ecu's control on the engine. Which is fine because the stand alone will be doing all the work.
So if it all works out, I'll be running an OBD2 car with an ECU that will drive the gauges but is otherwise lobotomized, while the stand alone quietly runs the show from behind the scenes.. undetected by scan equipment.
Is that so when you get that emission tested it lets you pass? because if thats the case man.. your having to walk a mile to move an inch.. but in the end it will all be worth it..
i'd be thinking more towards tuning possibilities since the stock ecu doesn;t fuel properly past a certain rpm and the stand alone will be programable to...or was it timing? either way stock ecu and hpt = no high end rpm fun
Are you sure that you can pass an OBD scan? isnt the computer going to do a readiness check on the sensors to see that everything is working properly or has this already been proven not to be a problem.?
"
boobs now with Riboflabin"
i've nullified other people's cars with an untraceable 'misfire' code and they've made it through state inspection stations. readiness and all. the way I do it won't cause a problem, I'll be able to drive to a station and drive right out.
the other reason I'm using a stand alone is because its the only way i'd be able to drive the ignition. Our ECU doesn't like 60-2 wheels unless I use the external trigger that someone linked earlier in the thread.
picture of the modified water pipe. I need a hose to connect the two sections
closeup of the oil cooler and the trans
closeup of the problem area
closer on the problem area.. you can see its pretty tight in here
oil return with cap (to be used sometime in the future I'd imagine.. figure I'd drill and tap the girdle before the engine was in the car)
the modified fuel rail and LSJ power steering block off plate
and a few of the engine/trans combination
a lil shine on the trans housing
goin in the car this weekend
untracable mis? are you just retracing a fault to a different PO code? so all your monitors are reading out as just some nasty mis?
"
boobs now with Riboflabin"
Jcavi wrote:untracable mis? are you just retracing a fault to a different PO code? so all your monitors are reading out as just some nasty mis?
this was someone else's car.. lets stay on topic.
So what are you doing with that spare getrag? and whats with having that turbo manifold on?
DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) v2.0 wrote:
I'm going to use HPT to go into the factory ecu and disable all the CELs and trouble codes associated with these sensors. as some of you will notice who have used HPT, that pretty much wipes out all of the factory ecu's control on the engine. Which is fine because the stand alone will be doing all the work.
.
On my car, I just clipped the wire that goes to the CEL. I'm not sure if the 00+ cars are different, but I would assume not (some kind of failsafe for the CEL). Is there any sort of benefit to erasing the codes rather than just cutting the wire to the light?
SHOoff wrote:DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) v2.0 wrote:
I'm going to use HPT to go into the factory ecu and disable all the CELs and trouble codes associated with these sensors. as some of you will notice who have used HPT, that pretty much wipes out all of the factory ecu's control on the engine. Which is fine because the stand alone will be doing all the work.
.
On my car, I just clipped the wire that goes to the CEL. I'm not sure if the 00+ cars are different, but I would assume not (some kind of failsafe for the CEL). Is there any sort of benefit to erasing the codes rather than just cutting the wire to the light?
when they run the OBD2 test they test the CEL. If it doesn't work, you automatically fail.
SS-J wrote:So what are you doing with that spare getrag? and whats with having that turbo manifold on?
i have to take the manifold off still, and the spare getrag is getting rebuilt.. I have 2 spares one has a bad case, one has a bad 1-2 shift fork
DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) v2.0 wrote:SHOoff wrote:DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) v2.0 wrote:
I'm going to use HPT to go into the factory ecu and disable all the CELs and trouble codes associated with these sensors. as some of you will notice who have used HPT, that pretty much wipes out all of the factory ecu's control on the engine. Which is fine because the stand alone will be doing all the work.
.
On my car, I just clipped the wire that goes to the CEL. I'm not sure if the 00+ cars are different, but I would assume not (some kind of failsafe for the CEL). Is there any sort of benefit to erasing the codes rather than just cutting the wire to the light?
when they run the OBD2 test they test the CEL. If it doesn't work, you automatically fail.
Makes sense. I don't have emissions here, so that's something I don't have to deal with.
i call PJ the evil genius...... my build next lol
Click Sig for Jersey GM's Official Website
ok so what all of your bolt-ons are going on this engine??
i hope everything works out for this engine like it should, but honestly i dont see it being very fast.
Riddle me this... riddle me that...
NA it should be high 13s right out the box, not very fast, but that depends on your definition. For a NA 4 cylinder its damn fast, and the fastest a street legal cav has ever gone
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
SHOoff wrote:DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) v2.0 wrote:SHOoff wrote:DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) v2.0 wrote:
I'm going to use HPT to go into the factory ecu and disable all the CELs and trouble codes associated with these sensors. as some of you will notice who have used HPT, that pretty much wipes out all of the factory ecu's control on the engine. Which is fine because the stand alone will be doing all the work.
.
On my car, I just clipped the wire that goes to the CEL. I'm not sure if the 00+ cars are different, but I would assume not (some kind of failsafe for the CEL). Is there any sort of benefit to erasing the codes rather than just cutting the wire to the light?
when they run the OBD2 test they test the CEL. If it doesn't work, you automatically fail.
Makes sense. I don't have emissions here, so that's something I don't have to deal with.
Like none at all? everyone in Ohio could be running strait pipe and that would be ok?
small update today:
Since the engine is about 95% completed (the remaining 5% can only be finished with the engine mounted in the car) I decided to move on to chassis prep for the skwirl and get it ready for the new drivetrain (as well as a nice refreshment since the car has over 100k miles on it and everything's been slowly but surely getting worse over the years).
I removed the old subframe.. it was slightly damaged from my fender-bender a year and a half ago.. just took me this long to figure that out.
I removed the SMG autosports A-arms, pulled my addco sway bar and cleaned it all up. My new subframe is from a 2005 Jbody... its pretty much the same, except in 03 they started putting a reinforcement across the bottom to hopefully increase rigidity. Otherwise, its exactly the same.
Everything was going smoothly until out of the clear blue sky it began POURING rain so I was forced to stop. I did manage to drag the new subframe into the shop, did the 'transmission mod' to the driver side ear, installed the a-arms, and loctited the bolts for the a-arms in so they don't backout or get stupid.
Now all I need is to order up or fabricate a subframe brace (the k-brace from TTR looks pretty sweet) and install that before going further.. my rk brace was bent pretty badly.
The next step is to swap the fenders to my OEM silver ones and install the new headlights. Then I'm thinking about a special mod to eliminate the wave in the underside of the mouth of my import fighter front bumper (basically some flat stock to force it flat).
I also sat down and figured out my coolant hose layout, and how to integrate the LSJ oil cooler into the system so it will function properly.
I've also found a tidbit in the GM ecotec book (cobalt Phase5 chapter) about how to use the stock sender unit (minus the pump of course) to be used as a pickup for an external fuel pump. I'm thinking now would be an excellent time to upgrade to an aeromotive A1000 external pump. I'll be utilizing the factory hardlines with aeromotive adapter fittings (as recommended per GM racing). This way, I'll almost never have to worry about the fuel pump ever again... and if it does take a dump, dropping the tank will be a thing of the past.
While we're on the topic.. I'm also thinking about removing my spare tire well, welding in some steel support frames and putting a lightweight aluminum floor in its place. I very rarely carry my spare tire anymore.. and it seems the only thing my spare tire well is good for is collecting water. I was curious on anyone's input on the structural importance of the well... since I'm on the "chassis prep" stage now its just a giant bubble in the way of tucking my exhaust under the car better and having a beautiful spot to mount my fuel pump and filter.
z yaaaa (the riddler) wrote: but honestly i dont see it being very fast.
this is only setting up for the real work trust me
Just hack it out PJ put the flat floor in it and then if your really worried about the structural stability weld in some bracing.
HOLY HELL ITS BACK!!!
In Loving Memory of Phil Martin December 14 2005
Alexis: Dustin, you're ghey, lol. I am better. I have tits, and tits rule all.
I'll probably do it this weekend jeff since we got almost all of it off from work and I NEED to get the skwirl project moving and finished so I have time to prep everything and get some test runs in before the real fun begins.
Good and a simple triangulated brace will work wonders for the rear and stiffen it up a bit.
Call or text me when you get a new phone.
HOLY HELL ITS BACK!!!
In Loving Memory of Phil Martin December 14 2005
Alexis: Dustin, you're ghey, lol. I am better. I have tits, and tits rule all.
This is sick PJ, just sick. Keep it up bro.
Proud member of Jbody of Kentucky ... Click on sig to go!
z yaaaa (the riddler) wrote:ok so what all of your bolt-ons are going on this engine??
i hope everything works out for this engine like it should, but honestly i dont see it being very fast.
wow what a dick....
and anything you drive is faster?
Sorry but PJ is an innovator right now... Ahead of the league doing his own thing... and he was running 14 flats last year on a very tired motor... this is a new motor with new goodies...
Plus like Pj said this is just setting the stage for that awesome thing called BOOST
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
