Well for the A/F gauge to work properly the oxygen sensor needs to be hot . So when you first fire it up the gauge reads that the engine is very lean . But as the oxygen sensor heats up the gauge will climb . I have the TEC3 set up to wait 20 seconds before it starts taking readings from the oxygen sensor . Yes when you hit the gas the gauge will sweep back to stoich . But what I have read the TEC3 for some reason will run rich at idle on any engine . On a high note the gauge is reading just above stoich . It is in the very low end of the rich indicator .
As far as the engine , it was about 180*
For the gauge cluster I actually made a mold of what I wanted . The actual cluster is pure carbon fiber that the gauges are mounted in . I used the stock bezel and cover to the factory cluster and made the new cluster fit the bezel . The cluster I made is actually contoured to fit the speedo and tach behind the factory lexan cover from the factory unit . The piece you see in the car is the 5th cluster I made . The others before that would have some major flaw and made great frisbees .
Autometer's speedo can be used with a factory computer . They have an input and output for the speed sensor pulses to be read by the speedo and then the PCM . Basically the speedo is intercepting the speed sensor pulses before they get to the PCM . Once I get the car going and drivable on the street I still have to calibrate the speedo . Which I have to measure a 2 mile run and then run the car on and stop at 2 miles . push some buttons and hopefully that will calibrate the speedo . Which come to think of it could get me out of some tickets if I get caught speeding . Just recalibrate the car at 2.5 or 3 miles instead of 2 .
I will snap a pic of the mold/ template I used for my cluster . Which I may do some improvements on to help form the fiberglass or carbon fiber by pressing the excess resin out of the material . Parts of this cluster was done in that matter which worked great in the end product . I am going to play around with it some more to come up with something that I can layer the carbon fiber or fiberglass in and then press it into shape .
I got the tank dropped today and it was a pain to get out . especially with the exhaust under the car . I am glad that I used the V bands on the exhaust . I was able to remove 2 bolts and take the section of the exhaust out from the resonator to the area where it goes over the rear axle with out removing the entire system . The gas tank had about 3 to 4 gallons of 2 year old gas . Get the tank back in and et some fresh gas should make the engine run better .
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ok how do you set the rpm's on autometer tach with the shift light?
Opening Soon Kustom J's
OK talked to Autometer about my fuel gauge problem . The sending unit which I thought would have been a 0/90 OHM actually was a 40/250 OHM unit . But all is not lost , the Lunar series fuel level gauge is a 0/90 unit . Some other series are also 0/90 OHM and some are 40/250 OHM .
It is not a real problem if Autometer would offer the 40/250 in the Lunar series . But they can modify my fuel gauge to work with the 40/250 OHM GM sending unit . Cost is only $25.00 plus shipping , So I am going to box up the gauge and ship it out . This will give me time to get the indicators and other small things working right .
Just a little side note : not a gauges use the 0/90 OHM sending unit . some may use the factory sending unit already in the tank .
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Robert, i'm assuming that means that our factory sending unit is a 40/250? Or is that dependant on year?
Yeah the factory sending unit is a 40/250 OHM sending unit . When I bought the Lunar gauges I knew that my 2000 had this type of sending unit . What I did'nt realize was the year I thought was a 0/90 OHM was also a 40/250 OHM sending unit .
The unit I had installed was out of a 1997 but it could have been a late 97 . I had read that 95 to 97 were suppose to be 0/90 OHM . But to my surprise when everything was hooked up the gauge did'nt work . That is when I tested it with an OHM meter .
Anyway I will be sending the gauge off as soon as some people pay me money owed . Right now I can re-install the gas tank with the 2000 sending unit , and get some fresh gas in the tank .
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Ok... time for ignorance to rear its ugly head. I understand about the guages not working right.... but if someone were to use an auto tranny, maybe even the one out of the donor car, can you use the entire wiring harness and computer out of the donor car??
Im an old school, V8's with carbs kinda guy... just getting into the newer stuff and dont understand half of what yall were saying. But the thought of a F/I V6 in my little 'hawk really sounds fun. How many do yall know of that have done this kind of swap into first gens and made it work?
I plan on living forever... so far so good
Yeah, if you do that everything should work fine. The gauges SHOULD work as well, with the exception of the tach.
What kind of car do you want to put this in?
84 'Hawk
I plan on living forever... so far so good
84 = no headache
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David.... You may wanna look over on V6Z24.com There are a lot of guys there with 1st and 2nd Gen cars that do the 3400 swaps. It will probably have a lot more info toward your swap than we would here.
cool.. Ill check them out.. thanks
I plan on living forever... so far so good
I started mine with gas that was in there for more than a year. It ran kinda crappy at first... but after getting some fresh gas in it, it got better.
Hey when the engine fired for the first time , I could'nt hold back I wanted to hear it run . So yeah I ran with some old gas . Anyway The fuel gauge is getting worked on and hopefully by Friday they will call saying it is ready , and they need my credit card # to pay for everything .
I was amazed with the old gas letting the engine run to begin with . Anyway that gas was put to good use burning a couple of stumps out of the ground . Once I get the tank back in , No have'nt put the tank back in . I had modified the sending unit to use a 0 to 90 OHM but it was still the same as what I had in the car to begin with . So I picked up a fuel pump module , and once it is here I will reinstall the tank .
Good news was the inside of the tank did'nt have any shallac build up .
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Hey Guys
I have been doing some research on the PCM and BCM off of the cavy/sunfire and grand am and i was able to get pin outs on both pcm and bcm from both sunfire and grand am so now look looks like we can use the stock jbody cluster and bcm if its from a 00+ we can use it and soon as i get my diagram finish i will post it up and along with the pin outs from pcm and bcm i got.
Opening Soon Kustom J's
I pulled the 4 banger out tues night, Wednesday I got the 3.4 some what bolted in. I used the side cover off of the cav 4spd tranny so I could use the stock cav tranny mount. That sucker Is exactly the same except for the side covers mount bolt pattern. Axles are the same spline too.
I Cut off the cav bracket for the motor mount on the pass side rail. The torque mount I finished up this evening.I came up with a very simple design which I will post on here asap. I used all of the cav a/c lines too! The Anti lock brake mod was relocated under the battery on the frame rail using part of the stock bracket, the batt tray was drilled out and rotated 180 degrees then re welded. Im using the gam air box, the bracket for, and the fuse box. That stuff looks perfect in there, like it came like that. That is why I relocated the Anti lock module.
On the other side I have the cav coolant bottle and the cruise control module.
Note:
- Heater hoses are different sizes. havent got to that one yet.
- Fuel lines, direct fit, just pop em on.
- A/C line from the compressor of the cav will need a little persuasion to work.
- Torque mount has to fabricated. Made mine from 1/8 plate and a metal break.
- batt, air cleaner , and fuse box will all fit perfectly, read above.
- I had to swap the tranny covers to use the cav mount.
Ill post some pics when I get a little more done. Im starting on the wiring tomorrow evening. I pretty much got It figured out I just Have to put 2 and 2 together. Im going to attempt to use the gam Pcm Bracket, and Mount It under the dash where the gam location is.. So far every thing Has been pretty easy, We'll see what I think by this time tomorrow.
Does any one have a cruise control switch and wire pig tail for a cav to sell?
Just a recap. Cav is an 01 with a 4 spd auto, 2.2. Donor parts are from a 01 gam Gt with a 4 spd auto and a 3.4.(im using the engine and tranny)
01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e
Thats some good news. Will help for the next time someone wants to swap to a 4spd auto. The side cover off the Cav should fit perfetly, like you said it does. Pretty much the same tranny between the 2 cars. Only some minor differences.
Cant wait til you get it running.
I pretty much got the wiring done last night, I worked on it till 2 am. I ran into a slight problem though. There is a purple wire, I think its pin 50 something on C1 of the PCM that is supposed to be hooked to a ten amp fuse that has power in acc. run and start. The cav doesnt have a circuit from the ignition switch that powers like that. Im probably going to have to use a couple of relays to do that. I hooked it to a power source that has run start power for now to see if I have to go any further with that.
I found out that the gam exhaust pipe off the engine bolts directly to the cav exhaust flange, with no mods.
And that the Gam rad is smaller than the cav, so Im keeping the cav rad. Im using the dual fans I just have to figure out how to mount it on the passenger side of the rad. no clips on the tank. And the tanks dont interchange because of the hight difference of the two rads. using the cav condenser too.
Im planning on having it running sometime next week. Im going to pull everything back out , do some painting, run some new brake lines, Pretty much some final touches before final assembly. Man this is easy compared to the 406 sbc in my s-10.
01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e
According to the above pinouts that purple wire is a Serial Data line? I dunno, my Grand Am PCM doesnt have the same connectors listed there.
Just an FYI, A local place named CRT Performance can reflash and reprogram GM computers, my buddy just had his totally reprogrammed. OBDII of course. BUT, before you get your panties in a bunch, he had all the extras removed (emissions, and a ton of other stuffs) and had the guy set it up to read his nitrous controller, or work with it.
just a possible option for ya.
I may have missed it but....
what transes do you guys run with those 3x00 swaps.
I think some 3x00 cars came with 4t45's(read think)
I understand a good welder can make anything work but what transes work with 3x00's in 3rd gens without going to hell and back?
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when you beat someone in a civic people wine and make excuses
when you beat someone in a cavalier they pull over and check under thier hoods
I think most of us are running the stock 5spd for the 2.2. I'm running the Isuzu 5spd. Anything above 00 in 5spd would be a Getrag. And the automatic trans is also useable. I havent broken mine (yet at least). It dont have a lot of miles since the swap. But the miles it does have are not really nice.
Joe is runing the 4t45E that comes with the 3400. But you can also use the 4t40 trans.
tks
I was thinking any kind of modded 3x00 ie. turbo, no2, heads or cammed would create durablility issues on the 4t40 or getrag.
arent alot of people in the transmission dept bitching about blowing up getrags? and wouldn't the tq of a 3x00 only magnify this issue?
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when you beat someone in a civic people wine and make excuses
when you beat someone in a cavalier they pull over and check under thier hoods
